Reply With QuoteTry ebay
Would ya share where to find this? Can on find in Merlin tools catalog. Link would be helpful, sin needs my google voodoo seems to be lacking...
Originally Posted by Robinhood
Wouldn't that be a tapered tap?
Use a 13/32 or Y letter drill then tap and you wont have to grind the shoulder off.
The tap you want. 1/8 -27 NPS
Try ebay
Ok, I think this one is a type s 1/8-27 npt tap with long throw and looks to be tapered.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-Ne...wAAOSw9VRZ4BIz
i guess I am confused. Does the s stand for straight? Or do I want a tapered tap. Can not find any y taps?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-Ne...UAAOSwvmRa4ryL
The "Y" Robinhood was talking about is the tap drill size (letter drill size). He also mentioned that a 13/32 drill will work.
The taps you show are both npt (national pipe tapered). You are correct nps designates straight thread. The two you show should work but I glanced through ebay's listings and did see 1/8-27 nps also. If you do choose an npt the longer the "thread" section the better, especially for the rear screw, because it will have less tendency to "walk".
Randy
The longer npt tap will have an advantage of easier starting. Also the tapered tap may provide the looser fit talked about in an earlier post. The looser fit allows more room for epoxy and positive alignment (using my "stud" method).
Ok finally got the NPT and NPS tap thing straight.
For beding I will need to remove the attached blind mag. box. A search resulted in this good article of how to do this:
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...and-CF)/view/2
Last edited by DesertDug; 08-22-2018 at 07:27 PM. Reason: Typo
BUSTED MY FIRST NUT! Wheeler action was waiting for me when I got home from work tonight and white a couple of wacks it was free. None of the shavings that others have found on stock barrel, I guess it may have been removed by original owner but who knows.
Afterwards I tried to remove blind box from action using method found in link above, but no luck as of yet.
Found go go no go gauges in stock at brownells so I order those during lunch. We will see how PGT is with cancled orders....
Anyone have a good method of removing a blind magazine they would like to share?
Oh, the original recoil lug is far from flat. Very visible while laying on a flat surface.
The link showing mag removal is pretty much right on, but maybe too much information.
The mag box is made of "spring" steel. The twisting of the screw driver is to spring the box so the tab can clear the slot in the receiver. Once the tab clears a slight prying in the same twisting motion will lift the tab away from the slot. At this point the box can be forced away from the action.
Once you do it once you will see how simple it is.
The factory lugs are stamped from a sheet of steel. This is how the "key" was formed at the same time.
Depending on the condition of the punch & die at the time of manufacture will determine how it turns out. But the nature of the beast will always leave thick & thin areas. The advent of the Tupperware stocks also have helped take their turn in bending the lugs. The soft stocks bend on recoil and in turn the lugs bend after reaching their elastic limits (because pressure is applied at the bottom of the lug). Your walnut stock once properly bedded will combat these bending forces by placing most of the stress on the lug in shear at the junction of lug & receiver.
One added piece of lug trivia. I recently purchased a barrel off a weather warrior. The lug he sent with it had the "key" spot welded (or brazed). The lug was very uniform in thickness and flatness!
Got the box off. Had to place the screwdriver in a vise and turned the receiver on the pivot point.
Now on to the trigger removal. Is it best the remove the trigger from assembly then the rest of the assembly, or remove all at once.
Pull the sear pin and remove all at once. All I can say is pay attention to the order and location of the small parts (sear spring & safety parts). We all go through this during the first one or two. There is lots of help on here for reassembly. My memory isn't like it used to be but taking plenty of pictures for reassembly reference won't hurt.
[IMG][/IMG]
trigger removal success. Is it worth the up grade on trigger to say a sav1?
would love to have action face tried, tools not available.
Is there anything that I should do that could be done with limited tool access?
[IMG]online photo hosting[/IMG]
How does this action look to you all? Is this just normal wear?
[IMG]windows 7 screen shot[/IMG]
[IMG]host images[/IMG]
Lastly here are some shots of the original stock and new stock. Original had lug bedded and I discover this mini pillar for the from action screw on it.
[IMG][/IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]screenshot utility[/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
You could run the face over a 1000 grit sandpaper that is placed on a very flat surface. Use light circular motion. It won’t help true the action but it will square the face. You will likey find high spots.
The sav-1 is a step up from the 3 screw in my opinion. But you can change the spring wire on the 3 screw and have a pretty good trigger for little additional cost. Search on here and find the name of the "fishing" lure that some have robbed spring wire from (forgot the wire gauge).
Both triggers and the Timney ( IMHO )are great for hunting. The Sav-2 trigger or SSS is far superior if you need to get less than 2 lbs. and will be more suited for target shooting.
Randy
Liquid deacon vs putty?
Is it necessary to get the one pond putty or do the liquid tubes work just fine? Please share your thoughts on this one,
Would this be improvement or is there a chance I may booger things up?
Overall improvement in the fit, although it’s not critical. It will allow the recoil lug and nut to seat better,(more friction due to contact area) if you take your time and don’t get aggressive it’s hard to mess this process up.
Rusty's method is going to help in your case. It surely won't hurt. To me your photo of the thread end of the receiver shows high spots (shiny spots). These will interfere with the lug torque and may cause poi change during shot strings. You are looking for a good flat surface to mate with your new lug. With the 1000 grit paper it would take forever to booger it up. Personally I would start with something much coarser and finish up with the fine paper.
You most likely will see the edge that is not "blued" when you are finished. Options are cold blue or paint (no big whoop).
there are high spots for sure on the face, as well as what looks like tooling marks, not a smooth surface. I will give a go at cleaning these up.
I did some more research regarding my needing surface and broke down and ordered 1 lbs of the Devcon 101100 putty. I also have two tubes of Devcon epoxy which I will use for the pilers.
Everything is on order, so till arrival not much can be done on the build.
Just got a call and my barrel is in the mail. Things are stating to come around are ready for use.
Got my tap in tonight. Tapped front action screw in old stock. The rear was over sized because I had used a 13/32 bit. 11/32 required for tap. Mixed up some Devon plastic steel for the sleeve and have them set after a dry fit. Seed to go smoothly, will see tomorrow. Still waiting on barrel. The stock will need to be opened up in the channel first when it arrives.
action with studs wrapped with tape to make sure centered on sleeves.
[IMG]picture uploader[/IMG]
Dry fit sleeves.
[IMG]how to upload a picture on the internet[/IMG]
Rear action sleeve may be slightly short, it not to concerned on this test run.
Looks good so far. I like it.
Thanks Randy. I have the stock and barrel sitting upside down. Do I need the bungee it together or under its own weight ok?
As long as the receiver is sitting all the way down for this job should be ok. The bungee certainly should insure that it does.
I personally use spacers/ washers and nuts on the studs to make sure a little excess bedding doesn't creep up and holds the action off of where it should sit. With the barrel you can get a good idea that it is sitting where you want it.
When you do the lug bedding job you probably want to snug it in place with the nuts. In my humble opinion
A nice thing about the taped studs is that you can "double nut" them to remove them before you "break" the action free of the bedding. A good puddy, tape & release agent job is a major part of a good bed job.
The test stock had the lug beded already, so the fit was nice and tight. I will secure when I bed the action, or at least that's the plan.
Does the barrel need to be head spaced prior to bedding the action?
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks