Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 106

Thread: 110e .270 build help

  1. #1
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432

    110e .270 build help


    This is how my .270 Winchester sits now. If picture shows?
    https://imgur.com/Uz4dUuJ

    I have so far upgraded my bolt carrier, replaced ejector, detent and spring, replaced plastic triger guarded with metal and set it in a Boyd's prairie hunter walnut stock.

    Plans are as following. I am waiting on a x-caliber 25" 416R Stainless Steel, light puma contour, 1:10 Twist 5R Groove w/ 11 degree crown, cryogenic treated.

    I have new new nut and recoil lug and barrel nut wrench waiting for more parts and tools.

    i have on order a wheeler action wrench since my usual home made barrel blocks did not hold the barrel. Has worked on the ar's I have built. So I am going to try the method of placing the action wrench in a vise ant use the nut wrench to remove. I have read of others doing it this way here. Did I make a good decision on this? How will head spacing this way be?

    Also on order is my go gauge from PAciffic Tool and Guage. This I am not happy about as the web page said in stock, but when ordered it showed as back ordered and my card was charged! I would not have purchased from them if I had known this because I wanted to practice / get the feel of head spacing while I waited for the barrel.

    I have reading up on bedding the action and think this needs to be done but not sure I want to take this on. Seems to easy to mess things up. Drilling for pillars as hard as it seems? Maybe some can talk me into it as I feel this may be a long build.

    This will be my west Texas hunting riffle. Target Animals are mule deer and aoudad.

    I have lots of questions, so if your interested, please follow along and give any advise, wisdom, criticism you can think of.

  2. #2
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432
    Well, picture did not post using Imgur?

  3. #3
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432
    https://m.imgur.com/gallery/Uz4dUuJ

    here is link, why no show?

  4. #4
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432

  5. #5
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432
    [IMG][/IMG]

    ok read about postimage.org, looks like maybe I have figured out posting pics here.

  6. #6
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432
    [IMG]screen shot pc[/IMG] ok one that's not so small.

  7. #7
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Northern MN
    Age
    72
    Posts
    673
    The wheeler action wrench will serve you well. Head spacing often takes a couple of trys to get it exactly the way you want it. Mine is mounted permanently on a wooden work bench. If you end up too tight or loose after final torque my method is to make index marks on the bottom of the barrel and nut with a sharpie. Loosen the nut, adjust the distance between the marks according to what you need re-torque, then re check headspace. Often the barrel twists with the nut (sometimes it doesn't). The "gap" between your index marks will give you an idea where you are. Remember never to torque the barrel with the bolt closed on the headspace gauge (to prevent chamber damage).

    Boyd's stocks work best with pillars and bedding (as all wood stocks). Wood savage stocks have been known to crack near the rear action screw if over torqued (been there/done that). Personally I use "lamp" nipples for pillars in wood stocks. I actually thread the stock with a tap. I fit the pillars and then unscrew them and coat them with epoxy, screw them in to final fitment. Pillars are fully set before I start bedding.
    There is a wealth of info on bedding on this and other sites. You will get the most out of your Boyd's if you get it bedded correctly.

    When you finish you will have the "bug". Be prepared for a life long addiction!!
    Good luck and keep us posted,
    Randy

  8. #8
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    South Texas
    Age
    66
    Posts
    7,784
    Dug, You will end up having to open the barrel channel for that contour. No biggie. Beautiful Rifle. Don't sell that stock!

  9. #9
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432
    Great tip Randy on the threaded pillars. How much wood should be left on the bottom of the puller? Or do you go all the through?

    robinhood, ya I was thinking I may have to open up the channel, it I think I should be able to do this without messing the stock up.

    when I was looking for stocks I was torn on going traditional wood or chassis, I think I will be pleased in my choice when she gets back on the firing line.

    i was also torn on staying with the .270 caliber or trying .260 but I already was set up for reloading and didn't want to go spending money on reloading supplies when instead the money could go to the build.

    I hope to keep this thread updated to when to when I can post some groups.

  10. #10
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Northern MN
    Age
    72
    Posts
    673
    My method works well for me, and some may disagree. I have done at least 6 of these so far with this method and no real big problems. I use the small straight thread lamp nipples from the local hardware. Thread is 1/8 straight pipe thread. Inside diameter is approx 5/16". A small round file is used to remove the flash/seam inside the nipples.
    My stocks are tapped through. The action screw head is torqued against the nipple when complete. I use a modified 1/8 npt tap. The tap shank diameter must be reduced so the tap can "reach" through. Also the rear hole must be done carefully to prevent the tap from walking rear-ward when it reaches the cut-out area for the trigger. I screwed this up a couple of times. The fix was to remove more material near the upper section of the rear hole and use plenty epoxy when fitting the rear pillar.
    After tapping dry fit the pillars. The rear one must be cut for the trigger clearance. The front one should start at the recess in the estucheon hole and just reach or almost to the receiver. The top of the rear one at the cut-out should also just barely touch the receiver.
    When torqued the pillars will prevent any wood compression.
    At the final stage before epoxy I make sure that the pillars clear the action screws so they do not interfere with each other. I made 2 studs with 1/4-28 thread to fit the reciever. These studs are then wrapped with electrical tape to serve as a "centering" spacer. The studs reach thru the stock and a nut/protective washer is used to secure the receiver/pillar alignment while the pillar epoxy drys.
    The same tape spacer studs are used later when the action/recoil lug is bedded. Again insuring there is no action screw interference with the inside of the pillar.
    That's my method for wood/laminate stocks.
    In the past I used purchased pillars and bored the stock with a Forstener bit. Setup was tricky with my limited resouces. Now I use a 21/64 or 11/32 bit for a tap drill (depending on the wood). It will easily follow the existing hole without any special setup.
    That's my method but I am always open to critique because someone out there has a better and easier way to get it done.
    Randy

  11. #11
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432
    Thanks Randy, can the tap drilling be done by hand, or is a drill press required. I guess I am asking how critical is it that the pillars are square to receiver.

    What do you mean by tap shank diameter must be reduced so the tap can reach through?

    thanks for the great help.

  12. #12
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Northern MN
    Age
    72
    Posts
    673
    The holes in the savage stocks I have found to be anywhere from 9/32 to 5/16, the tap drills follow the old hole fairly easy by hand. A drill press when set up properly will be more accurate and maybe even "straighten" the existing hole. Then again set-up is the key word. Set up improperly the new hole may deviate from the existing hole. It must be setup with the current receiver inlet.
    I use sequential steps with a hand drill to reach the desired size and haven't had a problem so far. When I started doing it this way I had a couple of old wood stocks to practice on. They turned out well and have since refinished them for my grandkids.

    The tap design at least in my toolbox will only allow the tap to cut the "length" of its cutting threads.
    Where the "threads" end on my 1/8 npt tap the shank is larger then the minor diameter. In order to tap deeper I ground this diameter smaller so it would pass through the cut/tapped section already tapped. There may be 1/8 npt taps out there that do not require this.
    Randy

  13. #13
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Northern MN
    Age
    72
    Posts
    673
    If you search for images of 1/8 npt pipe tap you should see what I am talking about.

  14. #14
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Posts
    109
    When tightening your barrel nut, be sure to open the bolt first incase the barrel turns a little, a lot easier on parts that way, don't have to worry about jamming everything together and buggering up parts or your headspace gage.

  15. #15
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    South Texas
    Age
    66
    Posts
    7,784
    Quote Originally Posted by mnbogboy2 View Post
    If you search for images of 1/8 npt pipe tap you should see what I am talking about.
    Wouldn't that be a tapered tap?





    Use a 13/32 or Y letter drill then tap and you wont have to grind the shoulder off.
    The tap you want. 1/8 -27 NPS

  16. #16
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Northern MN
    Age
    72
    Posts
    673
    Robinhood you are correct, good catch. I have been using the tapered pipe tap (npt). The nps tap you show would negate the shank grinding. As long as the major diameter is the same in the finished tapped hole. I can't remember if the taper goes past the nominal value. The reason I used the npt is because that's all I had when I started this method.
    As long as the nps tap will leave a loose fit to allow room for the epoxy, my guess it would be more suitable for this job.

    Also I didn't mention earlier to the OP that like tapping metal "chips" must be cleaned often to allow the tap to "cut" the wood. I believe the flutes in the straight thread tap will allow better/easier chip cleaning than the tapered tap. That would be a plus also. I probably will order one & try it on one of my next wood stock projects.

    Thanks for the heads up Robinhood.

  17. #17
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432
    How do you guys cut the rear pillar for the trigger clearance? How wide does the gap need to be?

    I will be adding a tap to my list of needed tools.

  18. #18
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432

  19. #19
    Basic Member SageRat Shooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    1,192
    You cut the pillar after the installation (after adhesive has cured). Then you take a dremmel tool and a cutting wheel attachment head and cut the pillar in a "C" with the open end of the C facing the rear action screw.

    If you cut the pillar before installing, then the pillar turns in the stock when you tighten up the action screws. I learned this the hard way...

  20. #20
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432
    found this link which has some good information regarding the bedding process for anyone that may be following along and needs to learn like myself.

    http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...dding-Model-12

  21. #21
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Age
    58
    Posts
    118
    Absolutely a beautiful rifle! My 110 TH .270 has harvested many a deer and I wouldn't trade for it, bone stock. I think .270 is one of the oldest and sadly, least "hip" deer harvesting cartridges out there. I get the buzz around the creedmoors, but I'll stick with tried and true! Mine eats Hornady SSTs and spits them out at 3000+ fps with deadly accuracy.

  22. #22
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432
    Txroadlizzard, what length barrel you shooting? What do you think about my choice of 25" length?

  23. #23
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Northern MN
    Age
    72
    Posts
    673
    The tap that Robinhood showed in his post will most likely be a better alternative. I see eBay lists several like he posted. No shank grinding required and there is more "reach" than mine which is most likely identical to the one in your link.
    Cutting the trigger clearance notch after the epoxy dries is a good idea. Because I use the studs instead of action screws the pillars do not twist as only the nut/protective washer turns as they are "snugged" up.
    Also the thread you found is full of great info. I was even surprised to see that sharpshooter treats centerfeed magazines the same way I do by cutting the "ears" off the tab.
    My guess is you have a staggered feed mag so that part wouldn't apply in your case.
    You are on the right track with all your research.
    Later,
    Randy

  24. #24
    Basic Member DesertDug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    432
    My 110e action is staggered feed blind box top feed.

    Some questions, do I need to remove the attached box and triger assembly from the action to bed?

    Triger is old three screw with wire spring. It was set up when I got it. Not sure of pull weight that it is set up at, but there is no creep or over travel. I am use to a two stage geissele ssa triggers in my ar builds. We will see if this first bolt action build of mine gets a trigger up date.

  25. #25
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    South Texas
    Age
    66
    Posts
    7,784
    Just a thought, if you have some wood clamps, you might want to squeeze a laminate or older wood stock to keep it from splitting when drilling. Im not a woodworker but maybe one will chime in.

Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. New to me 110E 30-06
    By Michigun in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-27-2018, 06:13 PM
  2. What about a build on a 110e Short Action?
    By natesatt in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 01-11-2015, 10:26 PM
  3. 110e Age
    By G Morris in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-07-2013, 09:04 AM
  4. 110e, 110 ???
    By michael40 in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-26-2011, 05:05 AM
  5. 110E
    By Leon in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-21-2011, 09:12 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •