Building DIY Case Annealer need some recommendations on determining the proper temperature.

[ToolAA]

I’ve been making some progress building a case annealer.

So far I’ve got about $70 in actual parts plus some workshop hardware. The black parts are 3D printed.



I am getting ready to probably test some cases soon and I’m trying to figure out the best way to fine tune the temperature setting. I’m going to purchase some templaq but not sure how to use it or which oneto get.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Texas10]

That's very impressive! I like what you did with the 3D printing. Are you planning on selling a kit?

[Ted_Feasel]

I’ve been making some progress building a case annealer.

So far I’ve got about $70 in actual parts plus some workshop hardware. The black parts are 3D printed.



I am getting ready to probably test some cases soon and I’m trying to figure out the best way to fine tune the temperature setting. I’m going to purchase some templaq but not sure how to use it or which oneto get.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What you set the torch to will change with each type and brand of case, that said you tune your drum speed so it drops the case in to your bucket or water or whatever your dropping into when the neck just starts to glow... and I mean just starts... you dont want to go till its bright red

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[Robinhood]

Jim posted a link to a very good article a while back. I hope he made it a sticky in the reloading section. For me I like to have very clean brass and do not want anything to gas off, like the zink.

[ToolAA]

Got the power supply connected this morning and did a test run and I ordered some Templaq to fine tune the process and it arrived yesterday. I am trying to target 850° at the neck while making sure the temperature at mid case does not exceed 450°


I’ve got over 200 6.5 cm cases ready to anneal and a few thousand .223

https://youtu.be/ggSi5T4Yjj0

I still need to finish the case and add some holder for the propane tank but Im pretty satisfied with this first attempt.

[Robinhood]

You did a great job on this. It operates a lot smoother than the one I made. I used a prox switch and a faster speed on the feed wheel. I should have just timed the rotation to match the speed of the annealing wheel.

[ToolAA]

You did a great job on this. It operates a lot smoother than the one I made. I used a prox switch and a faster speed on the feed wheel. I should have just timed the rotation to match the speed of the annealing wheel.

I can see that the timing is potentially an issue when running a lot of cases. If it’s not perfect, eventually the case indexing drum will catch up to the case rotation drum and you could deposit two cases into the rotation drum at one time. I think, but have not tested the idea that if the indexing drum moves slightly slower than the rotation drum the worst outcome would be a situation where you would simply skip a case from loading at all.

Post a pick of what you made. I didn’t invent this, I had looked up about half a dozen designs on youtube and just went from there. I’m guessing at the very least our solutions would help the next guy build his design.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[OLEJOE]

750 degree Templaq is what is recommended. Some use 450 degree down on the case to make sure it doesn’t get too hot. Nice work. You are very talented.

[Evlshnngns]

Nice work. I like the flexible torch and holder.

[Mozella]

I can see that the timing is potentially an issue when running a lot of cases. If it’s not perfect, eventually the case indexing drum will catch up to the case rotation drum and you could deposit two cases into the rotation drum at one time. I think, but have not tested the idea that if the indexing drum moves slightly slower than the rotation drum the worst outcome would be a situation where you would simply skip a case from loading at all. ..... snip............

My similar machine eventually drove me to add an inductive proximity switch on the feed ramp because it kept getting out of time. The problem is that the load on the feed drum changes depending on how many cases are stacked in the feeder. That makes it rotate at a slower speed when the feeder is full and faster when it's nearly empty. Therefore, even if you set the timing perfectly at first, it will go out of time before too long. Unfortunately, the tendency goes from just not quite skipping a rotation of the annealing drum toward double feeding. Skipping a rotation is annoying, but double feeding is much worse.

Adding a switch is simple and very effective. It also helps in this regard. My machine will sometimes fail to feed a case to the feed ramp. With the proximity switch, I run the feed drum at 100% duty cycle and that's fast enough to give it a second chance to pick a case out of the feeder and deliver it to the ramp before the annealing drum finishes it's rotation. That means it won't miss a cycle.

I'm also concerned about the 3d printed parts holding your case stop. I imagine it will get too hot and wilt. I"m guessing you'll have to use a bit less plastic and more metal for your case stop design. Other than that, I really like what you've done. I built mine long before I got my 3D printer, but you've inspired me to consider redesigning some of my components. What kind of filament are you using?

[Ted_Feasel]

My similar machine eventually drove me to add an inductive proximity switch on the feed ramp because it kept getting out of time. The problem is that the load on the feed drum changes depending on how many cases are stacked in the feeder. That makes it rotate at a slower speed when the feeder is full and faster when it's nearly empty. Therefore, even if you set the timing perfectly at first, it will go out of time before too long. Unfortunately, the tendency goes from just not quite skipping a rotation of the annealing drum toward double feeding. Skipping a rotation is annoying, but double feeding is much worse.

Adding a switch is simple and very effective. It also helps in this regard. My machine will sometimes fail to feed a case to the feed ramp. With the proximity switch, I run the feed drum at 100% duty cycle and that's fast enough to give it a second chance to pick a case out of the feeder and deliver it to the ramp before the annealing drum finishes it's rotation. That means it won't miss a cycle.

I'm also concerned about the 3d printed parts holding your case stop. I imagine it will get too hot and wilt. I"m guessing you'll have to use a bit less plastic and more metal for your case stop design. Other than that, I really like what you've done. I built mine long before I got my 3D printer, but you've inspired me to consider redesigning some of my components. What kind of filament are you using?

The one my dad and myself built, we used a normally closed proximity sensor. It works very well. We are making a 2.0 version made from 1/8th mild steel that will be much more aesthetically pleasing. This one works perfectly, it applies a very even annealing.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[Ted_Feasel]

My similar machine eventually drove me to add an inductive proximity switch on the feed ramp because it kept getting out of time. The problem is that the load on the feed drum changes depending on how many cases are stacked in the feeder. That makes it rotate at a slower speed when the feeder is full and faster when it's nearly empty. Therefore, even if you set the timing perfectly at first, it will go out of time before too long. Unfortunately, the tendency goes from just not quite skipping a rotation of the annealing drum toward double feeding. Skipping a rotation is annoying, but double feeding is much worse.

Adding a switch is simple and very effective. It also helps in this regard. My machine will sometimes fail to feed a case to the feed ramp. With the proximity switch, I run the feed drum at 100% duty cycle and that's fast enough to give it a second chance to pick a case out of the feeder and deliver it to the ramp before the annealing drum finishes it's rotation. That means it won't miss a cycle.

I'm also concerned about the 3d printed parts holding your case stop. I imagine it will get too hot and wilt. I"m guessing you'll have to use a bit less plastic and more metal for your case stop design. Other than that, I really like what you've done. I built mine long before I got my 3D printer, but you've inspired me to consider redesigning some of my components. What kind of filament are you using?

I found it you have the machine tilted at about 15 degrees, that eliminates the problem of the feed ramp getting cases out of alignment etc

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[ToolAA]

I appreciate all of the feedback. I ran a batch of 150 cases a few days ago. The metal plate that holds the shells during rotation did get hot and the plastic was warm. I do think I will design the holder with a longer metal finger and also add some sort of insulation spacer between the metal and plastic. I should add a prox sensor too if I was planning on doing a large batch.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Ted_Feasel]

I appreciate all of the feedback. I ran a batch of 150 cases a few days ago. The metal plate that holds the shells during rotation did get hot and the plastic was warm. I do think I will design the holder with a longer metal finger and also add some sort of insulation spacer between the metal and plastic. I should add a prox sensor too if I was planning on doing a large batch.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Here is the one I built. I later added a normally closed proximity sensor and that cured any timing issues then set it at a 15 degree tilt and that cured problems with cases wanting to walk out or not fall into the drum squarely. Were making version 2.0 now, using 1/8th in mild steel for all construction. It will be alot prettier than the 1st one but the 1st one does very evenly anneal.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk