Reply With QuoteThanks for sharing Dave! I have built fixtures for the factory triggers too. Getting the angle right for the sear it tough. I try to only polish the trigger with a Dremel and rouge.
I'm sure others have posted a similar trigger job...but this is how I did mine.
Triggers were the first type of gunsmithing I taught myself in the late 90's/early 00's. Almost every firearm I have owned has received a trigger job. To the point that I do not purchase aftermarket triggers. I am very fond of the Accutrigger, as the safety lever on the trigger makes it feel a bit like a 2-stage. Doing my trigger job, the trigger is as light as I want, with no creep and breaks like a glass rod!
I started with reprofiling the sear angle. Rather, I should say not actually reprofiling, rather I stone it in a fixture I made to bring it to perfectly flat. The sear "as is" does not have, what I would call a perfect surface. After stoning to 6000gr, I polish is. The trigger gets the same attention.
https://s33.postimg.cc/yxd06a5fj/IMG_3251.jpg
https://s33.postimg.cc/5w8nwasj3/IMG_3252.jpg
https://s33.postimg.cc/44fp1egvz/IMG_3254.jpg
Next, I picked up a 10-24 SS set screw .75" long. I then turned down half to smooth the threads.
https://s33.postimg.cc/luhdmg26n/IMG_3257.jpg
https://s33.postimg.cc/8dkf3jwzz/IMG_3258.jpg
I removed the stock return spring and this is where the set screw is installed from the bottom. I picked up a new compression spring, size .25" OD x .6" long, with .020" dia. wire. The spring fits over the set screw and is the new trigger return spring. Lastly, I used 2 bronze bushings, 1 on each side of the trigger to tighten side to side play. The bronze bushings are 5/32" hole and I believe .010" thick. They are actually for a folding knife.
https://s33.postimg.cc/auw6aujhb/IMG_3266.jpg
The new return spring print is listed as total 1.9lb., but that's at full compression. The spring is only preloaded approx. .187", and the trigger with the new overtravel stop, only about 1/16"! If that!
To me, this embodies what some would call a "Tactical" trigger. I don't have a test gauge, however it is extremely light w/ absolute safe engagement! Can not be tripped with vigorous bolt actuation.
Thanks for sharing Dave! I have built fixtures for the factory triggers too. Getting the angle right for the sear it tough. I try to only polish the trigger with a Dremel and rouge.
I appreciate the kind words my friend!Originally Posted by Robinhood
Actually, this is my stoning fixture. It's actually the jig I made to sharpen my knives. I make custome knives, and Japanese water stones are my preference. The armature holds the stones and the angle can be set. On the front of the flat portion, I installed neodymium magnets. These hold the work piece to allow one handed operation, as my left arm/hand are paralyzed. Here's a link to the pic. https://s33.postimg.cc/fkvraedxr/IMG_2433.jpg
Nice workmanship, Dave! Stoning to 6000 grit, that's gotta be some kind of polish you put on those parts. Are you starting out with target accutriggers?
Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.
Nope! Standard Accutrigger. Not a concern as I am performing a complete overhaul on the trigger and sear. I'm not JUST "polishing" the surfaces. I'm actually profiling the sear angle to PERFECT! Yes, my 6k Shapton stone leaves a very high luster. Perfect angles is the secret to eliminating "creep". I prefer my modified stock trigger to most aftermarket units I have felt. The only thing better to me would require spending HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS on a full 2-stage set up, designed for target shooting. My trigger, as I said, is what I would call the epidemy of Tactical Trigger. And I hate that word, because it is so overused & abused! But if you take it for the actual meaning.
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