Anyone else not entirely happy with their 10 BA Stealth in 308?

[teddy12b]

So I bought my 10 BA Stealth brand new, and so far to date I've never really been all that impressed with it's accuracy. I thought with the factory blueprinted goodness that it'd shoot even better than what I'm used to seeing out of factory savage rifles. I really wanted to love the gun and so far I've probably got 200 - 300 rounds through it. I've run factory Federal gold medal match 168gr, and 175gr ammo. The only problem was with the 175gr FGMM seemed to stick in the chamber, while every other factory I've ran seemed to cycle just like it should. I haven't tried any reloads and honestly don't want to. Part of the appeal of the 308 was the ability to just buy match ammo in quantity and not spend all my time at the reloading bench.

Honestly, I wasn't too happy about the changed screw size on the scope base because I didn't really see a need for it. It was a needless pain, but oh well.

The factory mag should just be called a 9rd mag and used for play time only since the magpuls out there are a much better choice in my humble opinion.

The factory stock just had to go, and I replaced it with a cheap Magpul CTR with a 3/4" riser. Honestly it's not a perfect solution, but I'm pretty happy with it.

I can deal with the scope base, as that's been resolved thanks to Leupold, and I planned on additional mags from the start so I have my factory mag collecting dust and I'm using the magpuls exclusively. What I can't really seem to do is deal with the lack of accuracy that I'm getting. I'm hovering right around 1" or more, and I know everyone on the internet says they're a half MOA shooter, but I have shot those groups before and I know I can shoot at least 3/4" groups when the gun/ammo/optic, and I are up to the task.

At first I thought it was the scope. I has a primary arms 4-14 with the ACSS HUD. That reticle is a little different than I'm used to so I swapped it with a vortex pst 6-24ffp from another rifle that I've spent a lot of time behind. That really didn't make any difference and now here I am left with a bolt action rifle that I'm really not all that impressed with for accuracy, which in my mind is the only reason I'd ever buy a bolt action.

So is there anything out there that I may be missing to make this rifle shoot well? I've never swapped a barrel before, but if I had that done wouldn't that defeat the purpose of a factory blue printed rifle?

[SageRat Shooter]

Well, It may be a factory blue printed rifle, but as you say, it hasn't really mattered (your groups are still 1 MOA+)... So, you certainly can try an aftermarket match grade barrel which should shoot better than any Savage made barrel ever could.

Additionally, If you want the most out of your rifle that you can get.... You really do need to start loading your own pills. Even the smallest change in seating depth, could shrink your groups down. You might as well have a "specialized" pill for a "specialized" gun.

[SlowTrigger]

Sorry to hear you're having trouble with the rifle. It should shoot very well with the federal premiums. I don't mean to burst anyone's bubble, but honesty I'm at the range every weekend and see a lot of folks shooting RPRs and Stealths, and what I see is what you're describing. 1+ MOA at 100 yards. If you want a hole puncher, Savage has target rifles that are more suitable for sub-MOA shooting, like the LRP, the 12 F/TR/Benchrest/Palma, etc. With a good rifle setup (by setup I mean everything, scope, stock, barrel, trigger, etc.) there shouldn't be any problem hitting .5 MOA with the premium match grade loads. I own a 12 F/TR and it shoots factory ammo under half inch at 100 yards.

[Phranque]

I don't own one, but I have fired one.... which is why I don't own one.

IMO, the Stealth is a fantastic platform for the 6.5 Creed, but it is a bit too lightweight for the 308... maybe not lightweight, per se, but I found it not well "balanced" under recoil, if that makes sense. It may have just been that flimsy feeling rear stock... If I were to get one, the first thing I would probably do is ditch the rear piece and affix a PRS for some extra heft back there.

[SlowTrigger]

^^^^ agreed. Creed is more "forgiving" than the 308.

[teddy12b]

My whole desire for getting into a 308 is because I've been shooting a 110fp in 3006 since '08 and I'm just tired of handloading every round. Theven appeal of buying match ammo in bulk was pretty appealing.

The other biggest appeal to me on this rifle was the 20" threaded barrel and magpul mags in as lightweight of a chassis as there could be.

If I were to swap out the barrel I wouldn't even know what brand to look at, but I know I'd want a 20" threaded barrel.

I've owned many savages, but I've never swapped a barrel so I'd probably find someone local who's done it so I'd know it was done absolutely right.

[SlowTrigger]

if you are near the northwest you could look at benchmark barrels. They do great work.

[Deadshot2]

if you are near the northwest you could look at benchmark barrels. They do great work.

A big thumbs up for Benchmark. I just rebarreled my rifle with one of their barrels and cut the average group size in half from the factory barrel which wasn't all that bad to begin with. Now shooting regularly at or less than .25 MOA. It's in 6.5 Creedmoor but my earlier Remington .308 got one of their barrels and it shot just as well. I do, however reload.. HUGE difference over factory ammo, even boxes that say "Match".

[J.Baker]

Don't see why the scope base screw size would be an issue - they give you an EGW rail with the rifle so it's not like you have to find a base that will accept the larger screws. Aside from that your other complaints are warranted and mimic my own in my review of the Stealth.

As for the accuracy, you didn't state how you are shooting. As you shooting off a bipod or front rest? With or without rear bag? If off a bipod, do you have anything between the bipod feet and the bench? (foam pad, piece of carpet, etc)

Have you tried playing around with the action screw torque?

Have you checked to make sure the scope base screws haven't worked loose? (this happened on mine)

How frequently have you been cleaning it? Some barrels shoot much better when they're good and dirty rather than squeaky clean.

Just some things to consider and maybe experiment with before you make the decision to sell or invest in an aftermarket barrel.

Also, have you tried the match ammo at 200 yards or further out? It's not uncommon for longer high BC bullets to not group as well at 100 yards as they do at longer ranges as they haven't fully stabilized and fallen asleep yet.

[teddy12b]

My only reason for swapping scope bases was that I wanted a 20 moa rail. I've taken the rifle out to 1,000 yards, but at no point was I ever impressed with the group sizes.

I have not played with the torque on the front action screw. I've got a torque wrench so any suggestions there would be great.

When shooting, I'm either prone in the grass off a bipod, or sitting at a bench off a bipod.

[big honkin jeep]

Here ya go T12B also might try front and rear bags. definitely the most stable.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...torque-tuning/

[bearcatrp]

Just a thought. If you have a sled bed, try shooting with it. Rule out human error. I did that with my savage 10T. Super tight groups with the sled bed. Not the tightest with bipod and shoulder so I know its me and have to work on my skills.

[big honkin jeep]

Man I know you're frustrated by your expectations but in my opinion load development for your rifle is the only way to really get a hummer. It's very seldom to find factory off the shelf load that will give bughole performance. Even in some very expensive big name rigs.
So much so that one of my favorite past times is to look up and down the line and then sit down beside some really high dollar rigs at the range with several of my old spray painted flatbacks with nothing more than tuned triggers and JB weld bedding jobs, a couple of bags, and a box of tuned hand loads. Another observation from an old curmudgeon, When developing a load if you stop at 1" and call it good enough then you'll have a 1" load, If you stop at 3/4" then you'll have a 3/4" load, if you keep looking most often that bughole load is out there even for an old flat back with a sporter barrel. It just takes a little trial and error, time, and patience.
I would bet with a pedigree like the stealth has that a really good load wouldn't be that hard to find. My more modern models with the latest stocks and heavier barrels though really no more accurate were much easier to find a great load for than my old 110s in .243, 25-06,270 and 30-06

[CBryars2]

You might give Savage a call, they have worked on 2 of my Stealths with fast response and good work. Also check the torque on the chassis, Some are coming in pretty light. Also tightening front to 50-60 inch pounds and then adjusting rear starting at say 35 and moving up could make a big difference. Just a thought. Sorry you are having issues I have multiple Stealths and like them all. 300 WM is the most accurate for me with 6.5 right behind. Other options are to look at Prime or ABM to see if they have 308 ammo. Both those brands get good reviews.

[bearcatrp]

One thing to remember, these rifles, whether it be the stealth or RPR, are entry level precision rifles to get you started. Plus for folks who don't have deep pockets to buy a $4000 dollar precision rifle. These rifles let the bug bite you into precision shooting. You can learn on them so if/when you have the bucks for the expensive rifles, you will have knowledge of what you want, or build off of these rifles to make it a great rifle for long distance shooting. Build as you go. My 10T 308 cost $599. Vortex HS-T 6-24 scope. Shot great the way it was. Added a custom chassis, another $650 bucks. Still shoots like a laser. But soon I will need to decide to re barrel or invest in a more expensive rifle. One thing going for the stealth is its already blue printed. Don't know if the RPR is or not. Put on a better barrel on the stealth and bet your shooting allot better groups (provided your doing your part). For now I am good with my 10T. Find out if its the rifle or you, then adjust from there.

[redneckengineer]

I have Savages that I love, everything from a muzzle loader, model 12, 17 hmr, 22 all tricked out etc. This stealth was supposed to be the 308 tack driver. Changed stock to $200 XLR, changed to Magpul mag, and had to have Savage replace the barrel because of heat sensitivity. The new factory barrel could shoot Federal Premium Match Kings 1/2" but very finicky on all of my reloads. I'm a pretty skilled reloader and tried numerous techniques to try to resolve possible factors in that area.

Ordered a Shilen match barrel to give the project one last chance. I just went to take off the old barrel and what did I find? A smooth barrel nut? WTF is this? Did Ron Coburn leave and this company just went to sh*t? Savage developed something so ingenious with the barrel nut that this site is referred to as the brotherhood of the barrel nut and now they f'ed that up! What was wrong with the original nut that normal Savage wrenches work so well on? Now I have to order some other tool to handle a smooth barrel nut. Vista, you might want to hire Ron as a consultant!

[RustyShackle]

Pipe wrench will take that smooth nut off right quick, just replace it with a notched nut after.

[Big Event]

I don't have the Stealth in .308 but I did purchase the 6.5 Creedmoor last May 2017. I too have had issues with the accuracy. I have been in the playground with competitive shooting for a few years now and really liked what I read about this particular rifle. I was shooting a 2" group at best so I sent it back to Savage for a warranty check up. I got it back and was told that the rifle fell inside of their tolerances. I have also tried different scopes, different factory ammo and reloads, all trying to find the rifle's sweet spot. A new barrel is my next step as well. I'd like to find a better answer but so far . . . . .

[redneckengineer]

The saga continues. I got the barrel off with a Savage spec Home Depot pipe wrench, thanks to the group. What did I find when I got the barrel off? I found out that Savage had sent my replacement BA Stealth rifle with a bunch of cobbled together parts like a small shank action. You would have enjoyed my vocabulary when I tried to install my new Shilen large shank barrel:)

To give Savage credit, they did ship me a new rifle (third one's the charm). Now time to start the break in, load development, trigger install etc. all over again...

[Deadshot2]

Now time to start the break in, load development, trigger install etc. all over again...

Being retired for over 14 years now these are the things that get me out of bed in the morning.

Headed to the range again tomorrow AM at 6:30 for some more load development on a new 30 cal 1:10 2 groove Benchmark Barrel. I live for the day I need to change a barrel and start the process over again.

I find that my firearm hobby is cheaper than Smoking, Drinking, Chasing Women, and at my age almost as satisfying.


When it comes to barrels it kind of helps to have Benchmark Barrels just 8 miles up the road from me. Two freeway exits. I get to drop in, talk over what I want in a barrel, they tell me what they'd recommend, and then I just wait for them to call me to pick it up.