Ist ever barrel install

[1vakid]

In the next couple of days I will be doing my first barrel swap. I have all the tools on hand and the stock barrel is already off. Have watched a couple of Utube videos and still uncertain. The following are my areas of concern:

1. Should I remove the extractor and ejector for final fit? No problem if necessary as I have a new kit coming.
2. After I install the "GO" gauge, is where I have real concern. Do I close the bolt on the "GO" gauge and finish screwing the barrel until it stops? If so, do I back off the, "touch" a small bit and then try the bolt? Do I thread the barrel in/out until I get a small amount of bolt pressure or do I adjust the barrel until there is no pressure when I work the bolt? I hope this question is understandable.
3. How much torque is necessary on the barrel? Thanks

[Robinhood]

What you describe is a good approach. Leave the extractor in. One way is to close the bolt and screw the barrel in until it lightly touches. back it off a turn or so. Insert the go gauge and then adjust the barrel untill the gauge stops it. Back off a small amount. Lightly tighten the nut making sure the action barrel relationship does not change or index. Try both gauges, I try to get the go gauge loose and the no go where the bolt will move but then stops before it gets started on the lugs. In no way should the bolt close on the no go.

If you use a breakover bar on your wrench i like to get it tight then with pressure on the breakover bar, wack the nut wrench with a soft mallet. I have it down where it is consistant. You could probably go 40- 50 f/lb's

You got this.

[shamu25]

https://youtu.be/ANK9KbXmMr4
I followed this YouTube quite closely and did my first Barrel job 3 months ago. It went very well. I did remove my ejector and extractor both to get an accurate go and no-go reading. I turn down the receiver on the go Gage just like in the video and torque the barrel nut just like in the video. The go gauge would allow the bolt to close perfectly but the no go would not. Hope this works for you as it did for me.

[Robinhood]

Decent video with a few caveats. The nut wrench is not a Savage Action Wrench and his method with my go gauges will not allow me to close the bolt on factory ammo. YMMV.

[1vakid]

OK. So, the recoil lug came in this afternoon. Got everything all setup and gave it a go. chambered the go gauge, closed the bolt and twisted the action in until it stopped. Backed the action off about 1/4 off a turn, (maybe just a hair more). At that point the action would open and close with a slight bit of resistance. Tried the no go gauge and the action would not close. So, I'm thinking I did it right??!!

[Evlshnngns]

I check with my brass/ammo, without a firing pin, to make sure it all works.

[SCAST65]

RE; The nut wrench is not a Savage Action Wrench

Perhaps I'm confused by the verbiage, but, in the method shown in the referenced video, it appears he's using a barrel vice in lieu of an action wrench.

No worries, as it appears there are several ways to arrive at the same destination.

[Robinhood]

No problem Scast, My comment was for anyone new that may have been confused. There are times when I use all three.

[tobnpr]

1/4 turn on the 20 tpi barrel shank equates to over twelve thousandths- which is waaay too much. You couldn't have backed it off that much and still have it not close on the no-go. Even an 1/8 turn is too much. Is use a barrel vise and action wrench so the receiver can't move at all when tightening the nut, but like many tasks in this hobby there's no "right" and "wrong" as long as you get the end result with the headspace gauges

If you're closing on the go-gauge with very light resistance (bolt handle should fall under its own weight almost all the way) you should be fine with factory ammo. If you handload, you can use a sized case (using a comparator to get the longest out of several sized is how I do it) to keep headspace at a minimum and minimize brass working.

[SCAST65]

If you're closing on the go-gauge with very light resistance (bolt handle should fall under its own weight almost all the way) you should be fine with factory ammo. If you handload, you can use a sized case (using a comparator to get the longest out of several sized is how I do it) to keep headspace at a minimum and minimize brass working.

I reload so nice to know! Thanks!

[Blckwlf]

I do it like Savage does, bottom out on the go gage, tighten the nut, verify the no go, and you're good to go!

[1vakid]

Well, guess I'll find out. I did the whole set up 3 times today, trying to, (in my mind) get the feel for what I was doing. On the fourth try I bottomed out the go gauge and backed off just enough to feel the tension release. Go went perfect and of course the no go was a no go. Now I'm going to bed the recoil lug, load some rounds and touch the first one off probably Friday. Thanks for the help guys and a special thank you to Robinhood.

[Robinhood]

You are very welcome. This forum has been good to me. Most of the people on here will help in anyway they can. I have made some good friends that come up with parts or tools I need or vice versa. If you ever need something don't hesitate to give me a holler.

[Dave Hoback]

Great job man! And welcome to "The Builders Club". I wish you good accuracy with your setup. Savages get a bad rap among shooters. They just love making accusations about our rifles being prone to KB's, sub-par accuracy & actions that burn out in a couple thousand rounds! Have owned several over the years and NONE have been guilty of these lies! I purchased my first Savage when I turned 18, and instantly fell in love with them. My current Savage is actually the first one I built, and is a "Stand Out"!

And you are correct, Robinhood is good people! Offers help and encouraging words whenever he can. Many really good people here, sharing a love for Savage rifles!