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Thread: Stock barrel vs. aftermarket.

  1. #1
    New Member Sinister762's Avatar
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    Stock barrel vs. aftermarket.


    I just bought a 10BA in .308. it has a 20" fluted barrel with brake. I was told that these are the best Savages off the rack. I'm wanting to get some input on a 26" heavy barrel swap. Weight is not an issue. I just wonder if I would gain or lose accuracy with this swap?

  2. #2
    Basic Member dfrosch's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum.

    Barrels are individuals. A heavier barrel might be easier to shoot well just because you physically influence it less. The extra mass takes more energy to move. But that doesn't mean that the lighter barrel will be less accurate. How does the 20" barrel shoot?

    You don't specify the brand on the heavy barrel. If it's a Savage, the odds are that it would shoot very similar to your current barrel.

    All the best.
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  3. #3
    Basic Member penna shooter's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Barrel nut....Congrats
    Perpetual Optimism is a force Multiplier....

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    Everything to gain. If you hunt 🦌, then by all means keep the rifle as is. If you like to shoot strings after strings of rounds, get you that upgraded barrel. Seeing as it’s a heavy barrel you wanted, you’re more likely a bench shooter so upgrade!


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  5. #5
    New Member Sinister762's Avatar
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    The barrel im looking into is a x-caliber, pre-fit barrel. 26", 1.055-1. Contour. No flutes. 1-10" twist, 5r rifling. 11 degree crown. Cryo treated.

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    If it were me, I would not cryo treat the barrel. Waste of money b/c it is already a bull barrel but if it’s something that you prefer then that’s too!

    Btw that’s a good barrel choice - can’t go wrong!


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    Basic Member BB68's Avatar
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    MRCHIRO why not cryo? It has been proven many times to make wear items last 2-3xs longer. Throat should see a longer life span. What do I not know?

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    BB68, you are absolutely correct - but I wouldn’t do it b/c the extra amount of ammo you can shoot vs the time getting a new one screwed on isn’t all worth it to me. Besides - how long do you want it to last for some people who won’t even see a full box of ammo through their rifle a year.

    It’s all about time for me but like I say, if its something you want-definitely so and go have it done.


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  9. #9
    New Member Sinister762's Avatar
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    Thanks y'all. I think that's what i will go with.

  10. #10
    New Member Sinister762's Avatar
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    Ok, I don't want to beat this into the ground, but I do have a question about rate of twist. I plan on shooting Hornady 178 or Federal 175g bullets. What do you recommend? 10,11, or? rate of twist?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister762 View Post
    Ok, I don't want to beat this into the ground, but I do have a question about rate of twist. I plan on shooting Hornady 178 or Federal 175g bullets. What do you recommend? 10,11, or? rate of twist?
    The "Ideal" twist rate for that bullet is supposedly 1:11.25 (from research that went into developing the M-24 SWS.) I had a 5-R milspec .308 with the 1:11.25 twist barrel and it shot fantastic. I re-barreled (twice) with 1:10 Benchmarks and they shot fantastic. All with the same bullet and charge weights. Answer? Take your pick as either one is close to optimum.

    If you are picking fly-poop out of ground pepper then technically the 1:11 barrel will be a little faster due to the slower twist rate. Question is, how much and does it matter?

  12. #12
    New Member Sinister762's Avatar
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    Thank you for the advice. I think I'll go with the 1:11.

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    10


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    New Member Sinister762's Avatar
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    Why the 1:10?

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    Bullet stabilization. Others have shot your bullet out of 12 and it does just fine in a few cases but let’s go by the book and stick with 10.


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  16. #16
    Basic Member BB68's Avatar
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    This is a good read on the 308. http://www.6mmbr.com/308Win.html

  17. #17
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    1-10 for .308
    But I would go 6.5-47L or 6.5 Creedmoor 28" 8 twist

  18. #18
    Basic Member OLEJOE's Avatar
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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^definitely

  19. #19
    New Member Sinister762's Avatar
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    My next build will be a .338 lapua. After that, probably a 6.5 creedmore. but for this one, i'm keeping it old school with the .308. thanks for the advice, though

  20. #20
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    The the 6.5, 22” barrel is all you’ll ever need unless you’re going for the reachhh. Gl and have fun !


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  21. #21
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    Barrel length has nothing to do with accuracy. Velocity is a different story.
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  22. #22
    Basic Member OLEJOE's Avatar
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    I'd go with the 26" with 10 twist just in case you wanted to go with the 200's on a windy day. Mine is a 26' with 12 twist and 168 is all it will shoot. I tried the 178 Hornadys and it didn't like them at all. Get bugholes with 168's though.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister762 View Post
    The barrel im looking into is a x-caliber, pre-fit barrel. 26", 1.055-1. Contour. No flutes. 1-10" twist, 5r rifling. 11 degree crown. Cryo treated.
    I've got one of these in a Creedmoor w/o cryo treatment. Great barrel, shoots 1/2 - 1 moa no problem.

  24. #24
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    Pretty accurate out of the box. However every Savage barrel I have looked at w/ bore scope has the chatter machining marks. A good aftermarket typically will be an improvement.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tempest View Post
    Pretty accurate out of the box. However every Savage barrel I have looked at w/ bore scope has the chatter machining marks. A good aftermarket typically will be an improvement.
    +++


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