light primer strikes. getting worse FAST

**zloe** · 05-10-2018, 11:30 PM

I've got a axis with a 204 HB on it. Really like the gun. Ground squirrels have hated it.
first 100 rounds (fiocchi 32 and 40 gr bullets) worked like a charm. all 100 went bang
Then I started reloading, didn't have any problems with the next 100 rounds using seirra BK39g. CCI BR4 primers. all worked well. No FTF.
The next 100 I loaded with some 39g BK and some "dogtown" 34g loads. Suddenly having 1 in 5 FTF which is extremely disappointing in the field on live targets.
By the end of the 3rd 100 rounds, I was having 2-3 out of 5 FTF. Sometimes a second chambering would cause it to fire, but usually not. Can't think of what happened to cause this difference and why it seems to be getting worse. I was checking everything out afterwards and realized that the front action screw was starting to loosen a little, but I don't know why that would have any effect...

Seems a lot of axis owners are having the same issue, I'd love to mess with the pin protrusion, but Axis doesn't afford that luxury. Any thoughts? I'm going to tighten the action screw and see how many of the FTF loads actually fire off.

**Evlshnngns** · 05-11-2018, 12:32 AM

Retry factory ammo. I had some problems fireforming for my ackley when four of the NEW LAPUA bass was undersized compared to the rest of the same lot of brass. I cured those cases by loading long(into the lands), went bang. Check your headspace. Make sure your primers are seated all the way. Buy a new spring. One guy on here installed a spacer/washer in the spring pack to increase the spring pressure. someone else had something dragging by the sear(?) causing FTF. Keep at it, let us know the cure.

**Mb1500** · 05-11-2018, 12:57 AM

^ Good advice

**Nor Cal Mikie** · 05-11-2018, 08:55 AM

Probably the reloads. (It's a headspace issue) More like you pushed the case shoulders back too far, firing pin pushes the case forward in the chamber and you end up with softer/lite primer strike.
Pull the bullets out a bit to increase the OAL with the bullets set to a slight jam into the lands. Once the round goes BANG, it has been formed to that chamber. (it could take a couple of firings to get full form) See if that fired brass will fit in the chamber and the bolt closes easy. If so, do a partial resize, more neck than anything and push the primer out. Load it up and go shooting. Then, make sure you don't push those shoulders back too far. .0015 to .002 is enough. Report back on the results.

**Robinhood** · 05-11-2018, 01:25 PM

Just to add to the advice given. If you believe you are having issues with headspace, you need to compare your brass datum to a fired round. Make sure the primer is not backed out. The Hornady LNL case headspace gauge is popular.

You can also stack shims behind the head until the bolt will not close. I cut shims out of a millwright alignment shim set or a soda can and stack them, well I used to, then I got better tools. I cut out for the ejector pin.

**zloe** · 05-11-2018, 07:56 PM

Thanks for all the replies. Took the gun and the FTF loads to the range today. Got the gun out, got set up, and cycled through a few rounds still no firing. Frustrating.
Started looking the rifle over. Guess what? Bolt handle was kind of loose. Then I realized the bolt main rear bolt (the one that has a hex cutout for removing it and disassembling the bolt) was backing out! It was a good 2-3 turns loose. Holy crap! I felt like an idiot. No wonder it was progressively getting so bad so quickly.
I don't think I torqued that down after I disassembled and changed the bolt head face to 223. Probably hand snogged it and got distracted at the time.
Tightened it down and all of the FtF rounds fired except one. Sheesh.
One more thing to add to the checklist before shooting...
Scope base
Rings
Actions screws
Bolt

Easy fix though Ha Ha.

**Nor Cal Mikie** · 05-11-2018, 08:05 PM

Don't you love it when the problems get solved that easy?

Kinda like getting to the range with 3 different rigs and finding out I left the ammo at home for two of them.

Well DUH!!

**zloe** · 05-11-2018, 10:04 PM

Originally Posted by Nor Cal Mikie

Don't you love it when the problems get solved that easy?

Kinda like getting to the range with 3 different rigs and finding out I left the ammo at home for two of them.

Well DUH!!

Ha Ha. It happens.
I took this same gun out a few weeks ago with some nice new loads I worked up. found a nice spot for squirrels, laid out the shooting mat, got the ammo out and the Mag loaded,Adjusted the bipod, attempted to chamber the first round and.....
Realized the bolt was at home at my reloading table....

Went back to the car and pulled out the 22lr. Not quite the same as 204 but better than a day at work. Always good to have a backup.

**Scott Evans** · 05-13-2018, 11:30 AM

Been playing with 223 case based AI's for quite awhile, solution to fireform FTF's is to use a more sensitive thin cup primer (CCI 400, 6 1/2, WSR) for the fireform load, then switch to 7 1/2's/BR-4's/450's or other magnum high pressure capable primer. Problem solved 100%. NOT a headspace or pin protrusion issue. .035"-.040" pin protrusion and 100% reliable primer ignition.

Didn't matter, .100" pin protrusion, heavy bullet jam, tight chamber fit and a 7 1/2 or 450 would have a high rate of FTF's and what appeared to be light strikes.

**Evlshnngns** · 05-13-2018, 01:30 PM

OP glad you got it figured out.

Originally Posted by Scott Evans

Been playing with 223 case based AI's for quite awhile, solution to fireform FTF's is to use a more sensitive thin cup primer (CCI 400, 6 1/2, WSR) for the fireform load, then switch to 7 1/2's/BR-4's/450's or other magnum high pressure capable primer. Problem solved 100%. NOT a headspace or pin protrusion issue. .035"-.040" pin protrusion and 100% reliable primer ignition.

Didn't matter, .100" pin protrusion, heavy bullet jam, tight chamber fit and a 7 1/2 or 450 would have a high rate of FTF's and what appeared to be light strikes.

I'll do that next time, sure wouldn't hurt. On my Lapua cases, they were obviously FUBAR from factory. Weatherby looking round shoulders, and the cases measured short using a comparator. I was a bit dissapointed for Expensive brass. It looks good now.

**FTGV** · 05-13-2018, 10:49 PM

Today I tried a small batch of .223 reloads with CCI BR4 primers.Of the five I had four FtF's. An identical batch except loaded with Federal GM205M primers, all fired normally. I can only assume the CCI cups are harder? Is this a firing pin spring issue?

**Mb1500** · 05-14-2018, 12:22 AM

Originally Posted by FTGV

Today I tried a small batch of .223 reloads with CCI BR4 primers.Of the five I had four FtF's. An identical batch except loaded with Federal GM205M primers, all fired normally. I can only assume the CCI cups are harder? Is this a firing pin spring issue?

check your stock fitment. Bolt handle allowed to travel all the way down, & bolt release tab not dragging on stock.

**foxx** · 05-14-2018, 09:56 PM

Also, if you ever take the bolt apart, be sure to replace the washer/ring between the 2 springs that comprise the firing pin spring. Without it, there is too little striking force.

**prdatr** · 05-15-2018, 10:19 AM

Originally Posted by foxx

Also, if you ever take the bolt apart, be sure to replace the washer/ring between the 2 springs that comprise the firing pin spring. Without it, there is too little striking force.

Replace it with what? Thicker washer?

**foxx** · 05-15-2018, 10:33 AM

No, my apologies. I mean be mindful it exists. Do not NEGLECT to use it. I have done so in the past. (It can be easily lost and not reinserted when reassembling).

**FTGV** · 05-15-2018, 08:08 PM

Well out of curiosity I tried firing another 5 cases that were primed at the same time as the first 5 with the BR 4's. With the cases primed but no powder charge or bullet, all of them fired. All had a nice defined firing pin cavity . The 4 that did not fire previous only had slight scratches, no firing pin indentation. I'm miffed at this. I will fully reload the cases again give it a try.

**Robinhood** · 05-15-2018, 08:18 PM

If it is the accutrigger, You either need to make sure you are depressing the safety blade or you need to adjust the trigger spring preload to increase the trigger pull weight. In this example, where there is no depression in the primer it was not a light strike. The firing pin never made it to the primer .It was a failure of the sear to fall as it caught on the safety blade.

**FTGV** · 05-15-2018, 09:04 PM

Thanks ,good point Robinhood , yes it has an Accutrigger and I think you are probably correct. However at the time I was wondering if that may be the issue since I had read the Accu's can be finicky. I gave some of the bad rounds 2 or 3 goes being very deliberate with pulling the blade straight back. It must be pure coincidence that it only happened with just these four consecutive BR4 primered rounds. I have never had this happen previously and all Federal primered rounds tried after were fine. The trigger is set for 2.5ish lbs.

**Robinhood** · 05-15-2018, 11:07 PM

If there is no mark on the primer, the firing pin in not getting to the primer. It could be the cocking pieces are so gummed up the assembly cant move. If dried lubricant cant be seen in the hole on the side of the bolt, the accutrigger safety blade it the issue. Since the issue is intermittent, It has to be the trigger. The blade is stopping the sear or the trigger travel is restricted by the stock and the sear can't travel far enough to let the cocking pin pass, ultimately restricting the firing pin's travel.

**FTGV** · 05-15-2018, 11:26 PM

Thanks, I will know for next time. Just very coincidental.

**Robinhood** · 05-16-2018, 12:00 AM

OK FTGV, Good luck and hang around. the guys around here love to help customize your gun!

**Scott Evans** · 05-16-2018, 09:52 PM

Accutrigger blade takes a different finger technique if we are talking about a no-strike situation. Big sausage fingers like mine with deep creases on the inside of the knuckle- use the pad of the finger, not the crease. If the accutrigger blade does not get fully depressed, it will do what it is supposed to do and interrupt the sear.

**Robinhood** · 05-19-2018, 09:20 PM

Originally Posted by Scott Evans

Accutrigger blade takes a different finger technique if we are talking about a no-strike situation. Big sausage fingers like mine with deep creases on the inside of the knuckle- use the pad of the finger, not the crease. If the accutrigger blade does not get fully depressed, it will do what it is supposed to do and interrupt the sear.

This has given many a new savage owners fits.