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Thread: Boyd stock headaches (my fault presumably)

  1. #1
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    Boyd stock headaches (my fault presumably)


    Well all of this started with a 12FV in 6.5 CM that shoots remarkably well as a factory gun. I set it up to hunt and do some longer range plinking. I've documented a few small issues that I struggled with on this forum, but all seem to be resolved with a little work or in one case a slight bump in my resizing die. I've been pleased with hitting plates out to 1,000 yds. without difficulty as a factory gun.

    I decided to buy a Boyd's stock after I hit the range one day after removing the stock earlier in the week. I noticed that my groups were about 1.5" right of where I had zeroed the last time, and the only thing I could presume was that by removing and replacing the stock caused a POI shift. I use a torque wrench for the action screws so that was presumably not a factor. Had to be from removing/replacing the stock.

    So, I spend $250 on a Boyd's pro varmint with Limbsaver pad and adjustable cheekpiece painted black. It arrives Monday. I had decided that I was going to pillar bed and bed the action and recoil lug. I read a ton of info on how to do it and go for it. Yesterday I finish the job and everything comes out pretty well. Had to clean it up a little and open the pillars just a touch for the action screws, but overall not the end of the world.

    While cleaning it up for the final fitting, I was using some denatured alcohol to remove residue and some play-do I used as a dam in places. I hear a tiny pop noise. I check the stock and between the action screws is a tiny hairline crack in the paint. Oh no! Heart sinks. I sand it down and I don't really see a crack in the laminate. Almost seems like the paint cracked or maybe part of the laminate is ever so slightly cracked, but hard to say. Like I said, it's small but runs between the action screw holes.

    So do I sand it down a little and use some JB Weld as insurance? I can't send it back as I assume there is no warranty once you drill it for pillars. I'm assuming this has something to do with drilling the holes for pillars as the hairline crack is right in between the action screw holes on the bottom of the stock.

    Would you trust it to fix it, toss it, or see if anyone wants a project piece? I'm now really tempted at getting an MDT chassis, but hate the idea of dropping that much coin on a budget rifle project. I probably should have left well enough alone and just used the factory stock, but I hate the idea of a POI change when the stock is removed for cleaning.

  2. #2
    Basic Member SageRat Shooter's Avatar
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    The Black version of the Pro varmint has historically had the splitting problem... It's not a laminate apparently (I've heard that it's just a plywood stock)... I went with the coyote laminate on mine... drilled and installed my pillars and had no splitting.... I did use a drill press for mine, which really makes it much easier.

    Sorry to hear about your experience... Especially when you had the adjustable cheek riser added.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter View Post
    The Black version of the Pro varmint has historically had the splitting problem... It's not a laminate apparently (I've heard that it's just a plywood stock)... I went with the coyote laminate on mine... drilled and installed my pillars and had no splitting.... I did use a drill press for mine, which really makes it much easier.

    Sorry to hear about your experience... Especially when you had the adjustable cheek riser added.

    Yeah, bummer for sure, but at least it wasn't a ton of dough to learn the mistake. So try and fix it or get rid of it? I'm sure Boyd's will say I voided any warranty so they're out.

  4. #4
    Basic Member SageRat Shooter's Avatar
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    Yeah, you're not going to get anything from Boyds in this case... It's a paper weight now if it was me... You could try to sand it down a bit and try to JB weld it, but I wouldn't trust it very long... Pillars are pretty much a requirement for the Boyds Pro Varmint as the action screws always compress after awhile... Hate to suggest this, but I'd order a new one... And perhaps not even a boyds... Take a look at the Bobby Hart LRT from Stocky stocks... It might cost you more than the PV, but I like the Bobby Hart much better (My bro has one on his 12FV). The comb is also higher, so you won't need a cheek riser most likely. They even have that stock model that has aluminum bedding blocks already installed... No Pillar job needed. https://www.stockysstocks.com/bobby-...nd-models.html


    Edit: Apparently the aluminum block is not for the savage models,, but I still prefer it to the Boyds. Wish they made one in Lefty...

    Just my .02,

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    Quote Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter View Post
    Yeah, you're not going to get anything from Boyds in this case... It's a paper weight now if it was me... You could try to sand it down a bit and try to JB weld it, but I wouldn't trust it very long... Pillars are pretty much a requirement for the Boyds Pro Varmint as the action screws always compress after awhile... Hate to suggest this, but I'd order a new one... And perhaps not even a boyds... Take a look at the Bobby Hart LRT from Stocky stocks... It might cost you more than the PV, but I like the Bobby Hart much better (My bro has one on his 12FV). The comb is also higher, so you won't need a cheek riser most likely. They even have that stock model that has aluminum bedding blocks already installed... No Pillar job needed. https://www.stockysstocks.com/bobby-...nd-models.html

    Just my .02,

    Copy. I hate to toss it, but I can't see myself trusting it to take on a hunt. That sucks. Pretty bummed, but I learned a lesson.
    I think I always need a cheek riser. I'm using a 20 MOA rail and I seem to need a pretty high cheek piece. I added a Karsten cheek piece on my factory 12 stock and it helped a ton. I'll consider another stock, although I'm also wondering if it's worth all the hassle and expense at this point. I know now that if I remove the stock, I need to re-zero, but it's not like I need to remove the stock more than once a year for cleaning.....tough call

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    I bought an old beat up Boyd's from the forums that had a crack right at the pillar. I ended up milling out a channel across the width of the stock and embedded a threaded rod in epoxy. It has held fine from the abuse of a .308 slamming it.

    I would not be so quick to trash it. Can you post a pic of exactly where this crack is? And Boyd's customer service has been great for me before, you will never know unless you call them.

  7. #7
    Basic Member SageRat Shooter's Avatar
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    Depends on what kind of hunt... The Bobby Hart LRT is a bit beefier then the Pro Varmint... It's your choice though... You're the one who has to carry it.... LOL! All I know is that my bro's rifle (22-250) turned into a one hole 10 round tackdriver after he put the Bobby Hart on.

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    E-mailed Boyd's just to see what they would say, but as predicted the pillar bedding voids warranty.
    Well, back to the old factory stock for me! Easily shoots well enough as is when I don't take it off!

    So, anyone want parts/pieces off a Boyds PV? I'll make you a good deal! Heck I'm probably overthinking the little crack as I can't even feel it with my thumbnail, but not risking it on a hunt.

  9. #9
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    Where it is painted black, I would glue, screw, and putty it back together and enjoy.

  10. #10
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    Brownells has stock screws for just your problem..i used them on an old double barrel once fixed it good

  11. #11
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    I would trust it after I applied Foxx's treatment. Read the following thread for some help.

    http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...ding-questions

  12. #12
    Team Savage snowgetter1's Avatar
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    Strengthen it, patch it, and shoot it. Your are shooting a 6.5 creedmore not 338 lapua. It will be fine.

  13. #13
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    Wick superglue into the crack. Done

  14. #14
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    Shoot it. If it splits out it will be easier to fix.

  15. #15
    Basic Member Zero333's Avatar
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    Drill a couple little holes through the crack, not too deep. And glue in some wood plugs.

    Just google "fix split rifle stock" and you'll find out quickly that it's no big deal.

    Torque action screws to 45 inch pounds for best results.

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