Long time reader/lurker but don't post much.
I just bought a model 12 F/TR in .308 and I would like to try and make it a multi purpose gun by having extra barrels for it in different calibers. Has anyone seen or heard of the switch barrel system by LPR Gunsmiths (http://www.lprgunsmith.com/lpr_switch_rifle.htm)? It sounds like it would work well, but why haven't I seen or heard of anyone doing it?
According to Larry, you simply un-screw the barrel and screw the new one on in just a few minutes. No taking the scope off or the action out. Sounds good, but I can't find any info on other people who have done it.
Any thoughts?
Wow !! The only one to date i knew of making a hunting rifle with a quick barrel change out was Thompson Center
with there Dimension rifles. Very accurate but you have to separate the stock from the action and barrel to make
the barrel change. Haven't heard anyone on The Savage Shooters speak of Larry's system. I emailed him see if we
can get more info on how it works. Being able to change out barrels without taking down the action on our Savage
rifles sounds great !! Nice find Rick !!!
I am so confused.
I cannot open the link, so I don't know what, exactly, is in the article, but Savage rifles are perfect for the switch barrel cpncept. All e person needs is a rar entry action wrench and barrels can be easily swapped in the field. There are various methods used to allow repeatable headspacing, such as marking the barrel nuts and barrels with "witness marks" to assist with repeatable head spacing and/or securing nut to barrel so it wont move/change when barrels are swapped.
No need to remove scopes or any other kind of break down.
Maybe someone who does this regularly can show, again, how they do so.
Can't open it either so googled it. Here is the link..... http://lprgunsmith.com/lpr_switch_rifle.htm . Am interested myself. I just emailed him for more information.
So they are essentially just machining a socket pattern into the muzzle and shouldering barrel to set headspace, then installing them with low to mild torque values making barrel swaps easier as well as removing the need for a barrel vice.
Note: the $45 per barrel is just the cost of them machining the socket pattern into the muzzle of the barrel. Barrel would have to be chambered and headspaced as well.
Pretty good idea.
I was thinking of maybe not having the flats machined into the muzzle as I don't like the look and I don't think I would need to change barrels in the field. A simple barrel vise would do the trick.
A rear entry action wrench negates the need for the slots in the barrel and allows for easy switching of barrels without having to remove scopes, etc. whether done in the field or shop. One must be careful not to overtighten the barrel when reinstalling it so there is no need for a barrel vice to remove it.
Thank you, that's the kind of info that I'm looking for
Yes. There are Savage shooters who swap barrels in a mater of a few minutes. THat assumes, of course, there is no need to swap bolt heads. Even then, you could have one stock, trigger assembly, scope, etc. and maybe two bolts... one with .223 bolt head, another with .308. As long as all your barrels are chambered for cartridges using .223 bolt face or .308, you could have literally dozens (thousands???) of different barrels ready to swap-out on the fly. Pretty cool.
I have not done it (yet) because I like having different stocks, scopes, etc. depending on the barrel chambering. Scopes, especially.
If I did not already have so much invested in a myriad of rifles, stocks, scopes, etc., I might make some effort to putting together a switch-barrel set up. IDK.
Look up American Rifle Company, they have a Barloc, makes switch easy as an allen wrench.
Also, I have heard Savage guys using red loctite on the barrel nut, and index marks. The nut stays on so headspace should dtay the same like a shouldered barrel. Index marks confirm headspace.
You can also headspace .223 barrels to a bolt head, and the swap .308 barrel with a bolt head (or new bolt) and increase options.
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Nothing new, Larry's been doing that for years. Most guys don't go this route for a couple reasons:
1. Additional cost
2. Barrel is specific to one action since it's shouldered and headspaced for that action.
Changing the bolt head, bolt body or recoil lug would require sending it off to have the headspace checked/reset.
Fifteen years running this site and I've yet to understand why guys think they need to be able to change barrels in the field like this. What's the point? What's the benefit? I don't see one that would justify it. In this day and age where you can buy a complete second rifle in another caliber for a couple hundred bucks - less than what you'd spend on getting that second barrel, it just doesn't make much sense. Cabela's 12FV with rebate ring any bells?
Is it really that much trouble to pop your scope off and pull the barreled action from the stock to swap a barrel? With the right rings (1/2" nut that clamps them to the base) the scope can be tipped off in a matter of seconds. Two action screws only take a couple seconds to remove. Use a rail that doesn't extend over the nut (or trim one that does back so it doesn't) and you don't have to pull the rail. Still need a means to keep the action from turning with the barrel (or barrel with the nut) with either method so that's a wash either way.
I think some of you guys just have a fondness for finding new ways to do the same old thing that accomplishes little more than separating you from your money. lol
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
Jim I think it has a place in BR or maybe even F-Class. Say you spent the money to have Fred do a T&T and install an Evolution Trigger on an action or used a higher quality action for those practices. This process would be much more cost efficient in that regard. Being closed minded to only factory actions being utilize I 100% agree, but if good money was put into making an action the best it could be or starting with something higher quality I get it. One may want to shoot the 600yds line with a 6BT, but the 1k line with their 6-284 and keep the feel of the stick and stock etc. the exact same.
The only reason I could see this being valuable was if you were hunting somewhere that had a large variance in game animals, like Africa, with strict gun laws that would only allow you to bring one rifle, but still allowed various barrels and ammunition. I'm not sure if such a place exists.Originally Posted by J.Baker
12FV is a great idea.
But I need a long action...
Even your $1600 Mausingfield is prone to production tolerances (though to a lesser degree) and thus there's no guarantee a barrel shouldered up for one action will headspace correctly on another. I also can't ever recall seeing or hearing of someone shooting in competition changing out barrels between relays. Why would they, and would the rules even allow it?
To each their own I guess.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
For me... I love the idea of having one good stock.... one good sensitive trigger.... one high quality scope... one same rifle handling feel... with different calibers. Personally... I can't afford high quality components on every caliber that I desire to shoot. But I love the idea of having a new caliber for one quality setup that is already set up and ready to go.... just shooting a different bullet. Screwing a barrel on or off a in the shop or in the field, sounds good to me... and a lot cheaper.... and WITH CUSTOM BARRELS. What's not to like about the ability to shoot a NEW caliber... in a NEW CUSTOM BARREL... for only around an average cost of 300.00 ... less or more...? I have two of those savage 12 FV, Cabela's Specials... 6.5 and 204... and am thinking of using them for switch barrel setups. These factory barrels are good... but I want to also use the 204 receiver for a 20 Vartarg. The price of dies and components can be costly enough, along with the custom barrel as well... there's no need to add on top of that cost the high price of another whole new stock, trigger, scope, rings, and mounts.
Jim is correct about simply buying lower budget rifles with their factory calibers, that shoot very well, and cost very little.... but I guess there are always the crazy ones that want to ride the razor's edge...LOL.
Yep... Exactly
If you're a tinkerer and just want to play with different cartridges for a short period a switch-barrel setup makes sense. Where it doesn't make much sense (these days) is for the person wanting to use the same rifle for different purposes (i.e. deer rifle and varmint rifle or deer rifle and long-range target rifle). In those cases it's better off to just buy a cheaper second rifle (i.e. a Trophy Hunter for the deer rifle) and then leave the first as your dedicated varmint or long-range target rifle with all the goodies. The cheaper second rifle is plenty good for that intended purpose without needing to upgrade anything as it has the AccuTrigger, it's plenty accurate out of the box, and it even comes with a half-way decent 3-9x scope - all for what...$450? Even cheaper if you go the Axis II XP route.
This is even more true for those who haven't invested in the necessary tools yet (nut and action wrenches, barrel vise, etc).
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
Still a bad link, at least for me... is the one referenced for a shouldered, or std. (non-shouldered) Savage barrel?
For a shouldered barrel, there's a commercial system by West Texas Ordnance (Switchlug) that uses a split recoil lug and clamping screw...
For that matter, I haven't done it- but I honestly don't see why- for a shouldered barrel- one couldn't use a thick precision lug, pin it to the receiver (as commonly done with 700's), - and then drill/tap it for a grub screw to hold the barrel in place after it's indexed. Loosen the grub screw, unscrew the barrel, screw the next one in place.
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