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Thread: Glass bedding

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by teredpse View Post
    So I want to ask whats the best drill bit to use. I will be using a drill press.

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    The best bit is a very sharp one. I've also used a Forstner bit to enlarge the holes for the pillars.

    Earlier you said this: "Do you remove material all the way to the tap at the end of the barrel?"

    I don't understand what you're asking.

    And you also said this: "Do the pillars cone contoured to the action? " I think you made a typo, so this one I can guess at.

    You are asking if the pillars COME contoured to the action, right? The answer is: Of course not. You make them yourself out of a pipe nipple.

  2. #27
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    The question about removing material was do I remover material from the tip of the rifle to the recoil lug? I am not sure I need to bed the entire rifle. Action to the end of the stock that is free floating the barrel. I am thinking of bedding the pillars and the recoil lug.
    Just nerves thats is all. I have ordered all my parts just need to get some bolts for the pillars. I will try and post some pics before and after
    Then we can have a good laugh.
    The worst is I will have to buy a new stock.

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  3. #28
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    When.bedding donyou use micro balloons? I know you use the another product to bed. I will use the Wheeler kit.

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  4. #29
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    Personally, I've never used micro balloons in the epoxy. Really, fillers like that reduce the density of the epoxy, but they also reduce the strength (all of that air.) For a bedding job, you don't need any fillers at all. All of the forces will be compression loads. No sheering or tension.

    What I usually use is Brownells AcraGlas gel, with a brown dye added to make it less noticeable against the walnut stocks. Being more like peanut butter, I doesn't require a lot of masking and temporary dams made out of clay.

    For a release agent, any grease or wax will do the job. Mold release wax is good (used to wax fiberglass layup molds), but even plain old Crisco vegetable shortening will work. Anything that prevents the epoxy from bonding to the metal parts.

    I would also suggest doing the pillars yourself. It really isn't that hard to do. Just clamp the stock down, drill out the holes from the bottom metal side first, about 3/4 of the way into the stock. Then finish the holes from the action side of the stock so you don't chip-out the wood. Select a drill bit about 1/8th inch larger than the pillar. That way you can move them around a little to line up the action. The voids get filled in with epoxy.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by teredpse View Post
    When.bedding donyou use micro balloons? I know you use the another product to bed. I will use the Wheeler kit.

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    Glass bubbles? Hell, NO!
    That's for fairing compounds/easy sanding. If using epoxy resins/hardeners- you don't want to add anything other than high-density or metallic fillers. You need near zero shrinkage, and compressive strength.

  6. #31
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    Oh, one other thought.. get yourself a pair of overly-long action screws. I use a pair of Chevy tall valve cover studs with wingnuts. The point being, that the stock length action screws can be a little tricky to use when bedding the action. When you first put the action into the epoxy and start to draw it up against the inlet of the stock, some of the epoxy will need to be squeezed out of the way. Having a few extra threads on the action screws makes it easier to get them started into the threaded holes in the action.

  7. #32
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    Thanks. I have completely refinished my stock. Now just need to bed it. I will be bedding the pillars and the action all at once. Looks to be the best way. I have read alot on this and I am looking forward to getting it done.

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  8. #33
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    Well now I have to wait. Used the shoe wax. Let it dry completely. When I drilled the pillars they are not pretty but I hope the work. Will post pic in the morning.
    Thank you all for the information.
    Very helpful.


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  9. #34
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    Well I did nit glue the action in. But not perfect. A little clean up and a lot of clay removal. That stuff is a pain. The shoe polish worked great. I have a little wobble from front to back the length of the rifle. I hope when I clean everything up it goes away.

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  10. #35
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    Why didn't you bed the stock before refinishing? The refinishing should have been last, for obvious reasons.
    Stock edge cleanup...Q-tips dipped in denatured alcohol before the epoxy kicks...
    You're going to need to tape up the top edge again before trying to trim that excess- and it's going to be very difficult to not
    nick the newly refinished wood in the process.

    But really, doesn't look bad for a first time- I don't see any major voids or bubbles. I can't tell for sure, but hopefully that's just a very thin skim of epoxy over the tops of the pillars ( hopefully you put release agent on the ends, and inside of the pillars). If there's any thickness to it, you didn't pull the action down tight enough with the electrical tape.
    (I prefer surgical tubing wrapped / stretched down the action).

    Any rocking means a do-over; you need to see if that's really going on.

  11. #36
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    Yeah the bedding on top of the pillars is just a thin coat and comes right off I had them suckers pretty tight. I can do light sanding on the stock and restain and if I have to it's no big deal. I think my rocking I had some tape left over inside the lug I've got that remove now I'll clean it up and send another picture

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  12. #37
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    I want to thank all of you. The hang up I had if the wabble was a small piece of clay. I might be picking clay out for the next year.
    Scope is ordered and then to the range. Just might have to start to reload.
    Fun project.

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  13. #38
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    Looks good! I like your stock! I refinished a factory (piece of birch?) looked pretty similar to yours. I use that stock to test my ideas on, so it gets stripped and mutilated regularly.

  14. #39
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    finished ready for the range.

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  15. #40
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    That's one of the most gorgeous rifles I've ever seen, and now it's a full custom job. I'm betting it will shoot better than a $5,000 rifle from a big-name company. Congratulations.

  16. #41
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    thanks

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  17. #42
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    the 4 in the center are my last 4 shots. juat wanted to get this gun on paper. 100 yards and with some new ammo I reload this should be an awesome rifle.


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