Glass bedding

[teredpse]

I want to glass bed my 110 bolt action Savage 110. This rifle is 1990 or 1991 made. I understand how it is done and will take my time. My question is do you allow the bedding to get into the pillar screws? Also do I have to remove material in the stock before i add the bed material?

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[cowtownup]

I used two bolts with the hex heads cut off to screw into the action and act as a guide when putting the action into the stock during bedding. I made sure I covered them with my release agent because some of the bedding material did migrate down in that area, however it was such a thin amount that it broke up easy when taking those guide screws out. I ran a drill back thru the pillars to make sure they were cleaned out good. Without seeing the actual stock you are trying to bed, I can't really answer the second question. However, I drilled holes to act as anchors for the bedding and also removed material to make sure it was a decent thickness in the areas I was trying to bed.

Good luck with it. I'm sure if you just take your time you will do fine.

Here is the first one I ever did.. Its not the best, but I learned some things...
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...ss-Bedding-job

[teredpse]

This is my stock

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[cowtownup]

Yep, that is very similar to the one I did.. I hope some others chime in with some sound advice.

[teredpse]

I have had to fix my trigger and the saftey. I also stripped and sanded the stock and now going thru tru oil the stock for a Finnish. Now that I have taken it all apart thia would be.my last step in glass bedding.
Did you remove any material before you bedded the action?

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[foxx]

You pretty much always have to remove stock material before bedding. Take it down about 1/8 inch, minimum (everything but the pillars) and fill with epoxy. A "skim bed" will remove less, but you still need to remove something somewhere, particularly around the pillar AREA (not the pillars) so there is something for it to bind to and add girth/stoutness.

[teredpse]

Okay i will take it down. 1/8". Is electrical tape enough on the barrel for free floating? I also seen the use of Kwik shoe wax used as a release agent?

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[OLEJOE]

The Kiwi shoe polish is great release agent. Just be sure to apply it every where you don't want epoxy to stick. Also use modeling clay in the notches on the barrel nut to keep from getting a mechanical lock. I've done several. Very easy. I always get nervous while doing it. Got 1 I need to do now but it's not a Savage. Several layers of electrical tape will work fine on the barrel for centering the barrel and setting the action height in the stock. I also drill shallow and small holes in the stock to give the epoxy something to hold on to.

[teredpse]

Thanks. Do i need to put the metal pillars in?

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[foxx]

Yes and no. Did you NEED to bed it? Maybe not. The pillars allow heavier screw torque anf prevent the screws from crushing or compressing the wood. I would never do either without the other.

[teredpse]

I might have the local gunsmith put the pillars in. I can do the rest. I do not have the tools. At least the drill bit. Have to think about that.

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[OLEJOE]

Now would be a good time to do it. I use the headless bolts and use electrical tape wrapped around the action and stock to hold it in place while it sets up. Some people bolt theirs down but if tightened too tight, it stresses the action and can actually make it worse than it was to start with. The electrical tape will hold it gently. Good luck.
Also, leave the pillars a little long on the bottom and you can trim them to the exact length with a Dremel.

[teredpse]

Thank you all for the help. This is fun stuff.

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[OLEJOE]

If you are going to install pillars, I would do that first. Get everything set up with your stock. Get the barrel taped and action height set where you need it. Install the pillars and let it cure. Then when you bed the stock, your action height is already established and all you have to do is fill the gaps. The pillars serve 2 purposes. They keep you from crushing the stock and help with keeping the action screws at a certain torque.

[teredpse]

Have you pillar block before. Not a lot of material in my stock just a little nerves to put a big hole in. I would have to get a drill bit for it.

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[short round]

If using KIWI shoe polish for release agent, get the neutral color. Have never tried the colored, it is supposed to cause problems.

[Mozella]

I might have the local gunsmith put the pillars in. I can do the rest. I do not have the tools. At least the drill bit. Have to think about that.

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No. No. No.

Hiring someone who is highly skilled/experiencedand who rightfully charges plenty of money for his time to do something which is easy, cheap, and requires nearly zero talent makes no sense. It's kind of like hiring your Doctor to mow your lawn. Do this kind of simple stuff yourself. Here's how I bed my actions and pillars in one easy step.

Enlarge the stock forearm so the barrel will free float and then wrap some masking tape around the barrel to set the forward elevation. Add or remove tape and use a piece of thin paper as a feeler gauge to get the barreled action sitting at the correct elevation. Then use a Dremel tool to remove stock material so that the bedding job isn't too thin. Be sure to enlarge the well for the recoil lug too. Leave a tiny undisturbed landing spot for the aft end of the tang which will control the elevation of the rear part of the action. When you're done and put the barreled action in place, it should rest on the tape wrapping at the forward end and the very aft part of the tang at the rear. Everything else should have clearance for the upcoming bedding material. I prefer Devcon 10110.

Measure the required length of the two (or three) pillars. Buy a 1/8" brass pipe nipple at your local hardware store and cut your pillars a little bit long. Chuck the pillars in a drill press or even an ordinary drill motor and use a file to square up the ends. Of course, if you have access to a lathe, use that.

Now buy two cap screws, the kind that takes an Allen wrench, with the proper thread to fit your action. Check the specialty boxes at your local hardware store. The OD of the screw head should be larger than the ID of your pillars but smaller than the OD of your pillars. In other words, you can use these screws to firmly mount the pillars to the action but the heads should be small enough so that they don't prevent you from dropping the action into the stock when it's time to do the bedding.

Wrap masking tape around the shank of the screws so they will just slip inside the pillars. This keeps the pillars centered up properly.

Use a Dremel tool to make some nicks on the outside of your pillars and scratch sand them with coarse sand paper for a better bond with the epoxy.

Wax everything except the pillars. Be sure to de-grease them at the last minute. Now, using your modified action screws, bolt the pillars to the action.

Drill out your stock to accept the pillars and put some gouges in those enlarged holes using a small cutter on your Dremel tool. The idea is to provide grip for the epoxy so the pillars can't pull out.

When you're all set to bed, start with a stick or screw driver dipped in the Devcon 10110 and goober up the inside of the pillar holes in the stock. Smear the Devcon on the action and pillars as well as the stock. In other words, coat both surfaces with a generous amount of bedding material.

Squish the action into place and keep pressing as the action slowly settles into the correct place. That will be when the end of the tang stops on the little undisturbed landing spot you left at the rear and when the several layers of tape on the barrel comes to rest on the forearm. At this point the action should be resting on those two hard points at the proper elevation.

I wrap the action and stock with plastic electrical tape stretched with a lot of tension to hold everything in place. Masking tape doesn't have enough stretch. Some folks use home made rubber bands cut from an inner tube. Bungee cord will work too. The idea is to secure the action to the stock so it won't move, but without using a big C clamp or other device which might stress the action. Remember, unlike some methods which use the action screws to pull the action into place, this "all at once" method can't use the action screws to hold things in place, so you'll need something elastic to do the job.

Clean up the mess including Devcon squeezed out around the lower end of the pillars. I buy bulk generic Q-tips for this job.

The next day, remove the temporary action screws and knock the barreled action loose. Clean up as necessary and then use a cylindrical end cutter on your Dremel tool to trim the lower end of the action screws to exactly the correct length. If you've measured carefully and made your pillars only a tiny bit too long, you should only need to remove .010" or so. Then bolt on the bottom metal, trigger guard, or what have you using regular action screws.

This one step method gives you an accurate, stress free (both mechanical and mental) bedding job.

[teredpse]

Thank you for the directions. This should be intersting. Do the pillars cone contoured to the action?

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[BB68]

another excellent thread

[teredpse]

I am glad i found this site.

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[cowtownup]

There ya go... Good job Mozella...

[Philf]

The blue rubber bands they put on your arm for when they draw blood from you work good.
I have repaired a shot gun stock using several of them, and they will stretch tight and cling together.

[teredpse]

I ordered my pillars today. I will order the rest next week. I want to check a local hardware store first. This is the start of my re finnish of this stock.
Also the scope I will order next week.

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[teredpse]

No. No. No.

Hiring someone who is highly skilled/experiencedand who rightfully charges plenty of money for his time to do something which is easy, cheap, and requires nearly zero talent makes no sense. It's kind of like hiring your Doctor to mow your lawn. Do this kind of simple stuff yourself. Here's how I bed my actions and pillars in one easy step.

Enlarge the stock forearm so the barrel will free float and then wrap some masking tape around the barrel to set the forward elevation. Add or remove tape and use a piece of thin paper as a feeler gauge to get the barreled action sitting at the correct elevation. Then use a Dremel tool to remove stock material so that the bedding job isn't too thin. Be sure to enlarge the well for the recoil lug too. Leave a tiny undisturbed landing spot for the aft end of the tang which will control the elevation of the rear part of the action. When you're done and put the barreled action in place, it should rest on the tape wrapping at the forward end and the very aft part of the tang at the rear. Everything else should have clearance for the upcoming bedding material. I prefer Devcon 10110.

Measure the required length of the two (or three) pillars. Buy a 1/8" brass pipe nipple at your local hardware store and cut your pillars a little bit long. Chuck the pillars in a drill press or even an ordinary drill motor and use a file to square up the ends. Of course, if you have access to a lathe, use that.

Now buy two cap screws, the kind that takes an Allen wrench, with the proper thread to fit your action. Check the specialty boxes at your local hardware store. The OD of the screw head should be larger than the ID of your pillars but smaller than the OD of your pillars. In other words, you can use these screws to firmly mount the pillars to the action but the heads should be small enough so that they don't prevent you from dropping the action into the stock when it's time to do the bedding.

Wrap masking tape around the shank of the screws so they will just slip inside the pillars. This keeps the pillars centered up properly.

Use a Dremel tool to make some nicks on the outside of your pillars and scratch sand them with coarse sand paper for a better bond with the epoxy.

Wax everything except the pillars. Be sure to de-grease them at the last minute. Now, using your modified action screws, bolt the pillars to the action.

Drill out your stock to accept the pillars and put some gouges in those enlarged holes using a small cutter on your Dremel tool. The idea is to provide grip for the epoxy so the pillars can't pull out.

When you're all set to bed, start with a stick or screw driver dipped in the Devcon 10110 and goober up the inside of the pillar holes in the stock. Smear the Devcon on the action and pillars as well as the stock. In other words, coat both surfaces with a generous amount of bedding material.

Squish the action into place and keep pressing as the action slowly settles into the correct place. That will be when the end of the tang stops on the little undisturbed landing spot you left at the rear and when the several layers of tape on the barrel comes to rest on the forearm. At this point the action should be resting on those two hard points at the proper elevation.

I wrap the action and stock with plastic electrical tape stretched with a lot of tension to hold everything in place. Masking tape doesn't have enough stretch. Some folks use home made rubber bands cut from an inner tube. Bungee cord will work too. The idea is to secure the action to the stock so it won't move, but without using a big C clamp or other device which might stress the action. Remember, unlike some methods which use the action screws to pull the action into place, this "all at once" method can't use the action screws to hold things in place, so you'll need something elastic to do the job.

Clean up the mess including Devcon squeezed out around the lower end of the pillars. I buy bulk generic Q-tips for this job.

The next day, remove the temporary action screws and knock the barreled action loose. Clean up as necessary and then use a cylindrical end cutter on your Dremel tool to trim the lower end of the action screws to exactly the correct length. If you've measured carefully and made your pillars only a tiny bit too long, you should only need to remove .010" or so. Then bolt on the bottom metal, trigger guard, or what have you using regular action screws.

This one step method gives you an accurate, stress free (both mechanical and mental) bedding job.

Do you remove material all the way to the tap at the end of the barrel?

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[teredpse]

So I want to ask whats the best drill bit to use. I will be using a drill press.

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