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Thread: Bedding a recoil lug

  1. #1
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    Bedding a recoil lug


    Gonna try and bed the recoil lug on my rifle. The gun is a Stevens 200 action and it is sitting in a bell and Carlson medalist stock. Gonna use the Deccan steel putty. Just want to bed the recoil lug and don’t want to screw this up. I know I need to put tape on the sides, bottom and front of the recoil lug spray the whole thing with a release agent. I’m gonna use Hornady one shot as my release agent. Can anyone give me a more detailed process for this so I don’t screw it up. Thanks

  2. #2
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    A brief search for that product turned up nothing. Maybe you can provide a link so someone can better assist you.

    FWIW, I use Devcon 10110 properly proportioned using a gram scale, and KIWI brand natural color shoe polish as a mold release. I pre-warm the project and keep it warm during cure. 80 F is a good starting point.

    In my experience, a putty type epoxy is good in many situations, just not this one. You'll need to roughen the composite surface by sanding to get good adherence and clean thoroughly with acetone or lacquer thinner.

    Good luck, and let us know how it turned out.
    Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.

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    Believe I will use the kiwi instead as that seems to be what most people recommend. What do you do about the front action screw to keep it from getting bound up in the bedding material

  4. #4
    Team Savage
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    I've bedded two stocks, a medalist and a BVSS. There are many tutorials out there. I watched Nathan Foster's 4 part tutorial on Youtube. "Bedding a rifle with matchgrade bedding compound". Detailed and easy to follow. I'm not recommending his products, etc. I used the steps that worked for my situation. I used Kiwi for a release agent. I used the headless screws from Forster to ensure receiver alignment with the pillars. Be sure to put release agent on everything you don't want epoxied. The first time I had problems with playdoh moving from the areas I had filled in. Filling the mag well with foam did not work for me. Used modeling clay the second time with success.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rakatak View Post
    Believe I will use the kiwi instead as that seems to be what most people recommend. What do you do about the front action screw to keep it from getting bound up in the bedding material
    I made studs out of 1/4-20 bolts by cutting off the bolt head and then threading the shank end 1/4-28 about 3/8 or 1/2 inch. After inserting the stud I wrap the shank part with electricians tape so it just fits into the pillar. This not only centers the screw in the pillar but does not allow bedding material into the pillar. The stud should be long enough to be "double nutted" with 1/4-20s on the other end. Use small diameter washers so that the nuts clear the stock. The "double nutting" comes into play at removal time. This method works pretty good for me but there is always more than one way to skin a cat.
    Good luck,
    Randy

  6. #6
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    When bedding recoil lug only do you try to keep the Devcon off of the aluminum bedding block? Also how much of the Devcon do u put in the recoil lug space?

  7. #7
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    Don't forget to fill the notches in the barrel nut so you don't get a mechanical lock.

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