6.5 creed

[RamShooter79]

What do I have to do to change a 308 to a 6.5 creedmoor ? I'm guessing just change the barrel am I correct thanks for the help.

[ZehnRing51]

For the cost of another good barrel and action, you might want to look into NSS (Northern Shooters Supply) for a Rem/Age Barrel / Big Horn Action configuration.
James is very knowledgeable, and will help you decide which way you want to go.
I chose the Creedmore setup, but with this configuration, all you have to do is purchase the barrel, set the head-space and go for it.
I purchased the CBI 6.5 Creedmore Barrel, and am already in the search for a 6mm Creedmore, 6.5mm x 47mm, and another .308 barrel.
Barrels are cheap for this setup @ ~$325.00.
You can use your existing Remington 700 Action, but it will take some machine work, but it is worth the cost. Then "piece of cake" to change barrels.
I'm glad I did this.

[RamShooter79]

Thanks but I was wondering about a Savage model 10 in 308 the rim diameter is the same as the 6.5 so it should be just a simple barrel change and everything else should work correct

[C.J.W.]

Yes that is correct. A simple barrel change. You'll need some headspace gauges as they are not the same as .308 unlike the .260 or 7mm-08.

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[RamShooter79]

Thank you very much

[OLEJOE]

Check out Ragged Hole Barrels. They advertise Savage Pre-Fits for $240 and free shipping. Same class barrels as Shilen Select Match barrels. I'm seriously thinking about ordering a blank and threading and chambering it myself. Check them out. They are a site vendor. I've switched 2 .243's over to the Creedmoor and the barrel is all you have to change.

[Texas10]

The EABCO accuracy barrel kits are very good for the price. https://www.eabco.com/savagebarrels.htm
Keep in mind you may want to replace the barrel nut and recoil lug with a precision ground type, for better accuracy regardless of which barrel you buy.

There is also some work you can do to the action once the barrel is removed, such as lapping the bolt lugs into the abutments and blending the sharp corners of the abutments where the bolt race way is cut, to keep from damaging your brass upon ejection.