I cut the end off the base and kept the mediums on and was able to slide the scope back a half inch or so. I'm going to leave it like it is for now. I went and picked up a box of Federal Non Typical Whitetail ammo in 140 grain to finish the break in and see how close i could get it. I ended up with ~1" group at fifty yards which didn't impress me. I'll try a different load next time out. I would like to do something about the trigger travel. Any suggestions?
Not sure what you mean by trigger travel...? What are you shooting off of? (Bags or Bipod). I think you're going to need to upgrade your stock to something like a Boyds before you'll see an improvement in your groups... That Tupperware stock can be squeezed up against your barrel just by setting it on bags... A bipod may even be worse.
Grab the for end of your stock and give it a squeeze... I bet you can get it to touch the barrel without much force.
The stock does give like you're talking about but it's not touching when it's in the rest. I assume it touches during the shot. Is that the problem? I'm shooting from a bench and home made rest. The trigger travel (i guess that's what you call it) is when I'm squeezing and can feel it move what seems like a mile before it goes off.Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter
Like I said, I'm new to all of this bench shooting accuracy stuff. I've hunted all my life and have never really shot more than 3-5 rounds a year just to check my scope and go hunt. I bought this inexpensive toy to have something to piddle with because I've been hearing so much about the creedmoor. Today I actually sat down and shot 25 rounds.
That would be correct. It does touch during the shot. For now, try pushing the rifle into your rest all the way to the magazine or front of the trigger guard. That doesn't put as much pressure or weight on the for end of the stock. That's what I did until I got my Boyds Prairie Hunter stock.
The 6.5 Creed is an accurate round from what I've found (I actually have a 260 Rem, but they are pretty much the same thing) I am a hand loader however, so I can improve accuracy just a bit more. The other thing I sill suggest is: if the 140s didn't work as well as you wanted, try dropping down to the 130s and see if your barrel likes those better.
Edit: do you have the Accutrigger or Standard trigger in yours?
My gun didn't like the whitetail ammo either, I think it was a light gr bullet though.
Mine has the standard trigger and I assume that may be part of the problem. It's pulling 3.5# which doesn't feel too bad to me. I think I'll try the Hornady American Whitetail in 129 grain next.
What are you shooting?
Here’s another problem I ran into....I mounted the scope with Vortex Pro rings by procedure and free the first 5 or 6 shots the scope had slid all the way forward. Not only did I have to start all over with zeroing, it scratched the scope pretty bad. I was not happy about that at all. I might look for a different set of rings today.
Did you lap the rings and secure with lock-tite on the threads?
With the standard trigger and heavier pull weight (3 lbs and up) there seems to be some "creep" with them. I did a trigger job on mine (coil snipping--voids warranty) to make it about 2 lbs or there about.
I prefer the 6 hole Blackhawk tactical rings myself. They run about $50 for the set. Rings usually need about 20-25 inch lbs. to secure the scope depending on what they're made out of.
The other thing that may be effecting accuracy is the wrist part of the stock will flex when pulling the trigger and during recoil. Makes it pretty difficult to repeat time after time.
No, after looking at the rings mounted and the way they scratched my scoped, theres now way lapping will help these rings. They tightened to a sharp edge underneath the tube and didn't have very much flat surface area. Locktite was not recommended so I didn't use any on the rings.
I've seen those rings and like the looks of them. As far as I'm concerned the rings I have are garbage. I'll try to work on the wrist and I'm not sure that I want to void the warranty just yet.
There isn't much you can do with the wrist area.... I know cuz I tried... Hence ordering a Boyds Laminate wood stock. no flex in the wrist, and the for end can't be squeezed up against the barrel. Probably the best upgrade I made on mine (with the exception of Putting a CBI aftermarket barrel on mine) My axis is a 22-250 by the way.... Which has a lot less recoil than the 6.5 Creed.
I built my 260 Rem off of the 111 action, which in my opinion is a far better platform to start with.
I’ve got a positive follow up if anyone cares. I couldn’t stand it, so I picked up some Leupold rings and Hornady Whitetail ammo in 129 grain. My groups at 50 yards went from 1.5” yesterday to .625” today and I got money back from the Vortex rings. I guess you could say I got paid to shoot smaller groups. That’s what I’m telling my wife anyway. I’d post some pics of the rifle and groups but I’m not exactly sure how to do that.
Well, I care... Most of us are here because we all needed help or advise in some manner. Brotherhood of the barrel nut is accurate for most guys on here. We all like to help the next guy get out of his rifle what he's looking to get out of it.... Glad you found an improvement and happier with your purchase.
What changes did you make other than the ammo and rings?
I'm surprised I don't read more about the epoxy bedding for scopes on the Savage site. To me, if you use a good epoxy (J Weld ?) for bedding on the rings, and rosin powder, the scope should have a perfect support. Agree, disagree?
The only other thing I done today was to make sure my rest was as far from the forearm end as it could be like you suggested
Sir you never bed the scope!
Many guys, myself included, bed our scope base to the receiver.
Also never use loctite on scope ring screws. If you bed your base properly you really only need to properly torque the base screws.
I'd like to hear more on how the scope moved inside the rings...I am using Vortex rings exclusively and have never had a scope move. You didn't happen to put a 1" tube scope in 30mm rings did you?
All my long range shooters have EGW bases and Vortex rings (6 screw Tactical not the Pro)...solid as a rock!
If installed properly!
Now the cheap a$$ Axis stock can be made serviceable. I used old aluminum arrows in each section then poured in aluminum impregnated bondo. Then used 80 grit sand paper to "float" the barrel. When I was done I could rest my head on my forearm on top of the receiver while sliding heavy paper between the barrel and the for end. I had a bi-pod on the for end and just had the butt on the table. To be honest I was surprised it was that solid. My Boyd stock should be delivered next Thursday.
I also replace the trigger spring tonight and polished all the contact points on the trigger. Made a huge difference!
So my 6.5 x 284 Frankenstein build is ready for the range tomorrow!
No sir. I have the Diamondback DBK-M-03P and I used the Vortex Pro VPR-1M. I mounted it by the procedure on Vortex website, shot five shots and noticed my eye relief was changing. I seen the scratches and noticed it had moved an inch so I tightened the rings beyond spec and I didn’t move anymore but my group sucked. I changed to Leupold rings the very next day and shot a .625 three shot group.
Which Leupold rings?
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Cheap Leupold Rifleman 1” high rings.
Glad it worked! I just picked up two sets of those and one set of PRW, but haven't had a chance to use any yet.
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You never bed a scope? Isn't that what you are doing when you lap the rings? You are providing a better aligned/more contact surface area for the scope tube to sit in. I've seen Savages where the points on the alignment bars were off by at least an 1/8 th of an inch. No amount of ring lapping will take up that kind of misalignment and to mount a scope on such rings would place a lot of stress on the scope tube. Use a thin layer of J-B Weld epoxy on the bottom half of the scope ring to rest the telescope on, remove after the epoxy has begun to set (obviously before it's hardened too much or you won't get the scope out), and you have the most accurate and aligned bed for the scope to rest on.
No Willy, I've never bedded a scope. But I all ways use one piece rails so I've not had the need to lap any rings..lucky I guess.
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