Why not get the recoil lug before you bed the rifle?
This rifle is a savage ladyhunter in 7mm08. For those of you not familiar, it is very much like the savage lightweight hunter OR the Savage 114s. It comes in a wood stock that has pillars already installed from factory. I believe this are likely press fit. Should I push on them to see if they are nice and snug? I have replaced the plastic bottom metal with real bottom metal. My plan is to grind/mill out about 1/8inch deep of the wood in all areas to be bedded. I am going to bed the recoil lug area back to the front of the rear action screw area. What tips and tricks do you all have that I should keep in mind? The gun is shooting less than desirable with factory ammo. I have tried several factory ammo and the best groups we get are 1.25-1.5MOA at 100 yards. Before I go working up reloads for the rifle, I want to bed it to rule that out. The goal is to find a load (factory OR with my hand loads) under 1 MOA. If after bedding, sub 1 MOA is not achieved with my reloads then I will be forced to rebarrel which means I will have to re-bed the lug area again since I will use a new competition grade recoil lug. Any other thoughts I should consider? Thanks!
Why not get the recoil lug before you bed the rifle?
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
I just posted all my tips and tricks here...
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...-advice-needed
Most important thing...
MOLD RELEASE! and clay, lots of clay in the appropriate areas.
Tony.
honestly, this is my wife's backup rifle and I am hoping to not have to touch it (other than bedding). I'm pretty confident I can find a sub 1 MOA load for it when I work up some reloads. If I'm going to start replacing parts then I might as well go the whole way and buy a new barrel haha. Now if I bed it, work up some loads, and still do not find a sub 1MOA load then I will be overhauling it into a semi-custom (so milling out and re-bedding the lug area would be the least of my concerns). At that point I might even be buying a new stock anyways haha. I'm just hoping this works out since it is her backup rifle. We shoot out to 400 yards on deer so while we do not need the most accurate rifles, we keep sub 1MOA as our standard.
I should have stated this is not my first rodeo. Every rifle I own is bedded (whether by me or a gunsmith). that being said I have never bedded a savage rifle. Bedding typically takes me 2 hrs prep on my remingtons. 2 hrs is MUCH easier than the time spent working up loads on a rifle. For me, I always bed my rifles before working loads, but again never bedded a savage. Yes .5in matters to me. No, warranty does not matter. if it does not shoot, I will re-barrel just like the other 2 savages I already re-barreled. Just wanted to ask advice here before moving forward.
Bed action at screws. Float tang and barrel. I don't bed along the sides of the action, except at action screw area.
Bed it. You will probably get you the results you want.
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Ah.Just wanted to ask advice here before moving forward.
Sides are not really supporting anything. In my mind, just cradle the action at the action screws.
Stocks will move, and the sides are just a possible point of movement.
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