Bedding a savage 110 fcp hs advice needed

[kmaroman]

So as the title states I'm looking for advice on bedding my recently acquired savage 110 338 lapua with the hs precision stock. I routinely get to shoot out to a 1000 yards, no im not a pro or competition shooter just a guy who wants to squeeze out the accuracy of a rifle. That said ive worked up a good load for this rifle but i seem to get the dredded 3rd shot flier, i can consecutively manage two shot 1 hole groups but that third flier is so disappointing even with the flier it stays under 1in @100 yards but it could easily be under 1/2in if i could get rid of it.
With that said i have never bedded a rifle so im nervous, at the same time im a competent person who has accomplished alot when focused. So im looking for a good guide on doing this, and since i have the hs precision stock with aluminium bedding block all i need to do is skim bed it right i dont need pillars do I? Also if i understand correctly i bed from the backside of the recoil lug to the rear action screw leaving the tang area alone? Thanks for any helps guys

[Cmgoff]

Best description I have seen
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

Yes you are correct, do not bed the tang. If the hs stock has pillars then you should be fine. If it does not I would suggest adding them. Personally if I'm going through the effort I'm going to add the pillars.

Also, not to jump out of topic, try a light jam with your seating depth. Very often this will improve consistency.

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[TonyBen]

Yes, you can just rough up the surface and skim-bed it. Free float the tang area. Here's what mine looked like when I was done.



I dug back and found an old post where I did my first bedding job into this stock. I later re-bedded it after I changed barrels to a heavy contour and you'll notice that my bedding job above is a little cleaner that the first bedding job below. Compare my most recent bedding job pictured above with the old one below and you'll see that I didn't bed forward of the barrel nut.

Also, not illustrated was that I greased up the threads in the action and used long screws with the heads cut off to guide the action into place when laying it in. I then removed one of the studs and inserted one of the action screws with the whole shank greased up and threaded it in with the trigger guard in place until it just stopped. I repeated with the second screw. Go back an hour or two after you've cleaned up the excess bedding and back off the action screws just to make sure they haven't glued into place, then re-snug them and let it set overnight.

The next day I remove the action screws and reinsert the studs and whack them with a hammer to break the action loose.

I routed the factory bedding and laid down a good layer of Marine Tex last night. I got it all trimmed and cleaned up. Here's the process for anyone who's interested...














Recoil lug routing...



Clayed, taped and release agent applied...



Leave the back of the recoil lug exposed, tape the sides and front...



More clay...



Action set in the stock, epoxy cleaned off and factory screws inserted, coated with grease to prevent seizure...








Excess clay in the mag well...



Barrel taped for fore end alignment...





After setting for the night and breaking it loose...



Studs inserted to hammer on for removal...



All cleaned up...



Recoil lug and barrel nut bedding...

[TonyBen]

Receiver all cleaned up...












Perfect image of receiver machining...



I used a knife and razor to trim. A couple of small chunks came off when I was scraping. If I used a Dremel, it would have been flawless...



Invisible bedding...

[penna shooter]

Well done and welcome to the barrel nut.

[Zero333]

Doesn't the HS Precision stock have a aluminum bed ???

This would make glass bedding almost irrelevant because the aluminum bed is a BED and I've not seen any improvements by glassing them.

Try torquing the action screws properly at around 40 to 45 in lbs before trying to bed anything.

Are you shooting Factory ammo or handloads ??

338 Lapua Magnum Tactical rifles are not known for their benchrest size groups. Only the best of the best will average 1/2 moa. Mainly due to a good aftermarket barrel.

If a rifle has pillars or a aluminum bed it's unlikely glass bedding will help. I've bedded many rifles and have not noticed any advantage by glassing a rifle that was already pillar bedded properly.

Benchrest guns are a whole different story compared to tactical 338 LM rifles.

[kmaroman]

Yes it has the aluminum bedding block in it, everything I've seen people like to skim bed them so they fit into the action better. I'm using handloads and yes I've seen that people tweak the action screws as well.