Bedding a top bolt release?

[daved20319]

Got a Boyd's Pro Varmint on the way for my new 12 FV. In looking over the action, it seems like there's a lot of areas for a pretty nasty OOPS! Planning on pillar bedding it, too, but was wondering if there are specific techniques when dealing with a top bolt release and/or the tang safety. First timer here, so please be gentle, I feel I have a good grasp of the basic technique, but I've never put it into practice. TIA.

Dave

[penna shooter]

good luck....Utube has a few vids to help..

[Texas10]

Rear tang should be free floated. Bed from the aft side of the recoil lug to the aft action screw. Do yourself a favor and get the right tools before starting. I recommend Semco 226244 smoothing tools https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...6244+&_sacat=0
or here https://www.browntool.com/Listview/t...0/Default.aspx to apply bedding, and to remove squeeze while still soft.

I use Devcon 10110 and weigh batches (9 to 1) using a gram scale.

Kiwi natural shoe polish and child's clay as mold release.

Don't forget to put several layers of tape around the barrel near the stock fore end to hold the barreled action level, and (i prefer) blood draw elastic bands to hold the action in place while the epoxy sets. The advantage of the blood draw bands is they like to stick to themselves, and won't slip loose while the epoxy sets.

And lastly, warm all the parts thoroughly to 80 F or more before starting, and keep warm during cure. A cardboard box with slits to fit around the stock, and a hair dryer stuffed into one end (don't put the hairdryer fully inside the box) and a same size exhaust port will do nicely if you're working in an unheated room like a garage.

You can bed the pillars at the same time, or after you've bedded the action. I wax them so they can be removed, and put layers of tape around the action screw to center them. Wax anything you don't want permanently stuck!

Good luck and let us know how it turned out.

[olddav]

I found this to be most helpful: http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

[daved20319]

Already covered on the tools, the Deacon is ordered, and I'll pick up the shoe polish on my next store run. I'm confused about why you make the pillars removable, I thought the whole idea was to make them a permanent part of the stock. I'll be making my own pillars, one of my other hobbies is machining, and the front pillar will incorporate an enlarged escutcheon/screw cup, similar to what's done in the article posted below yours. So what advantage is there to making the pillars removable? Later.

Dave

[daved20319]

I found this to be most helpful: http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

Thanks, I found it extremely helpful, too, enough that I'm seriously considering ordering the DVD. Will be taking my time on this project, winter has settled in here, so it could be a couple of months before I can even get into the range, so no reason to rush the job. Will try to remember to take pics and post as I go. Later.

Dave

[Wreck-n-Crew]

I used Devcon and KiWi natural shoe polish on a bedding job (different rifle) that turned out great. I had never used Shoe polish as a release agent but it popped out fairly easy. Nice tight bedding job but no pillars. Used the molding clay where needed and Wrapped painters tape around the barrel forward of the lug. I can attest to your choice of materials, they worked real well.

Rear tang should be free floated. Bed from the aft side of the recoil lug to the aft action screw. Do yourself a favor and get the right tools before starting. I recommend Semco 226244 smoothing tools https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...6244+&_sacat=0
or here https://www.browntool.com/Listview/t...0/Default.aspx to apply bedding, and to remove squeeze while still soft.

I use Devcon 10110 and weigh batches (9 to 1) using a gram scale.

Kiwi natural shoe polish and child's clay as mold release.

Don't forget to put several layers of tape around the barrel near the stock fore end to hold the barreled action level, and (i prefer) blood draw elastic bands to hold the action in place while the epoxy sets. The advantage of the blood draw bands is they like to stick to themselves, and won't slip loose while the epoxy sets.

And lastly, warm all the parts thoroughly to 80 F or more before starting, and keep warm during cure. A cardboard box with slits to fit around the stock, and a hair dryer stuffed into one end (don't put the hairdryer fully inside the box) and a same size exhaust port will do nicely if you're working in an unheated room like a garage.

You can bed the pillars at the same time, or after you've bedded the action. I wax them so they can be removed, and put layers of tape around the action screw to center them. Wax anything you don't want permanently stuck!

Good luck and let us know how it turned out.