Hand reaming a chamber

[Evlshnngns]

So I have a fresh 12fv 6.5 creedmoor here, and a box of lapua 6.5x55 brass. What are the chances hand reaming the original barrel .2xx inches deeper with a custom swedemoor reamer would actually work? I would keep the same shoulder angle and width as the creedmoor, just a longer neck and body, with a wider base.


If hand reaming is out, then Ill put the reamer funds into a new barrel. Thanks for any insight.

[squirrel_slayer]

I would assume it's possible. wouldn't obviously be as precise as a dialed in barrel on a lathe. but if you were patient and cut it slowly as in very little force exerted on the reamer you could end up with a nice chamber. but don't be surprised if it takes you a few hours of reaming/ pulling out wiping chips, re-oiling ect.. turn the reamer as close to the shank as possible. the further you turn on the t-handle the more likely you'll be cutting a out of round chamber due to how the force is exerted.

[RustyShackle]

I wouldn’t try it.

[sharpshooter]

I wouldn't either. Chances are that the factory chamber is not 100% straight and concentric to the bore and hand reaming will only make it worse.

[dfrosch]

The Swede is not going to clean up the Creedmoor chamber. The Swede is too tapered and the Creedmoor is too straight. Even doing this on a machine, you would probably need to chop half the Creedmoor chamber off.

[squirrel_slayer]

The Swede is not going to clean up the Creedmoor chamber. The Swede is too tapered and the Creedmoor is too straight. Even doing this on a machine, you would probably need to chop half the Creedmoor chamber off.

he was talking about a "sweedmoor" chambering which has the same shoulder body taper as the creedmoor

[dfrosch]

OK, see that now. Still a bit of a gamble. And, for a few bucks more, you could get a new prefit barrel.

[Robinhood]

You have no way of holding the reamer on centerline at the rear. The slightest of effort can push the rear of the tool out with the probable outcome being either an out of round chamber or or an oversized chamber mouth.


Edit: I see Squirrel Slayer has already addressed this. I agree with what he stated.

[OLEJOE]

You might could do that with the Creedmoor reamer just running it deeper. I read somewhere about someone doing that when chambering a new barrel but I can't remember where it was.

[MI223]

I wouldn't do it. 100+ for a reamer and still a shit barrel even if you got the chamber right or 300+ for a match grade stainless barrel with a nice true chamber. Money well spent in my book.

On the other hand it would be interesting to try. I bet you could get it with a little patience. If the body taper is the same it should straighten itself out ok just cant introduce any side pressure.

Let us know how it works if you try

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[Evlshnngns]

Thanks for the replies. No hand reaming, check. Now to go straight swede or sell my second born for some improved dies....

[Deadshot2]

Hand Reaming has been done successfully for years. Just use a "Pull through" reamer which is attached to a bore sized rod and fed with bolt pressure.

More than a few M-1 Garands and M-14's have had chambers modified using this type of reamer.

The trick is finding one. PT&G might grind one for a price but my choice would be a new barrel. Usually by the time I think of changing anything on an old barrel I've shot the thing out anyway and am thinking of a new barrel.

[mnbogboy2]

This idea was brought up a couple of times on the 6.5 Creedmoor forum here is a link. http://www.65creedmoor.com/index.php...20515#msg20515 +1 on the above posts but sometimes we gotta do things just because we can I guess. I've done a dozen or so hand chamberings over the years and it can be done especially if you are re-chambering or "improving" an existing chamber. The reamer will always follow the old chamber (path of least resistance). Of course the reamer following the path of a crooked factory chamber most likely will not be a good thing. A good chamber cast might give you a clue on how concentric the chamber is to the bore. Your barrel is new but another problem with rechambering on a used and abused chamber is heat damage and hardening which is very hard on the reamer and the guy turning it by hand. Side torque can be minimized by placing the barrel vise vertical and applying down pressure rather than pushing the reamer horizontally. And yes you can "egg" a chamber if you are not careful (I wrecked my first try on a 25-06ai chamber years ago). I now mount my barrel vise vertical and as low as possible and use a step stool so I can get above the reamer of which I turn with a tap handle. I clean the reamer & barrel every 6-12 turns so yes it takes a while when you are only cutting about .002 to .010 per turn. An advantage of hand reaming over lathe turning is the less likely hood of "chattering". I have a couple of aftermarket barrels with chatter marks left after lathe chambering they shoot good but sure leave the brass ugly. I believe the 6.5 creed reamer can do what you want but in addition to the reamer you will also need a custom die because of the different shoulder angle. That puts the dollars and cents a lot closer to an after market barrel. After putting together my last build: a new 26" 6.5 creed savage 10T-5R barrel, Stevens LA with an SSS comp trigger into a B&C duramax that has been in a closet for about 5 years I came to the conclusion that Savage does make some pretty good barrels....Two 3 shot groups out of the first three groups without any load development .28" & .31" at 100 yards 129 Hornady interlocks pushed by H4350 (2820 fps) single digit SDs...Pretty good for these old eyes....Tried 120 & 140 Nosler Ballistic tips with same results under .5" (3020 & 2750). Maybe trade the 6.5X55 brass for some creed brass (ha ha). Good luck on whatever you decide, Randy

[Evlshnngns]

THANKS for the link! And he reused his Creedmoor dies!

[Evlshnngns]

Hand Reaming has been done successfully for years. Just use a "Pull through" reamer which is attached to a bore sized rod and fed with bolt pressure.

More than a few M-1 Garands and M-14's have had chambers modified using this type of reamer.

The trick is finding one. PT&G might grind one for a price but my choice would be a new barrel. Usually by the time I think of changing anything on an old barrel I've shot the thing out anyway and am thinking of a new barrel.

I did see this, for the remington guys who order short chambered barrels. Ptg does still offer them, though not in this specific caliber, they could do it.

[gbflyer]

My advice would be to call Dave Manson at Dave Manson Precision Reamers. PTG is a nightmare if you need service. They are great if you like reamers that cut on 2 flutes though. And the website is cool.