Bedding New Build

**deertroy1** · 10-29-2017, 08:20 AM

I built a new rifle. I used a M11 action, McGowen prefit barrel in 6mm Remington and a Boyds laminate stock which I pillar bedded with Devcon. So far everything I've tried shoots around 1" - 1.5". I've got a lot of groups around 0.5" - 0.75" but when I try the load on another day it's 1.5"?
Right now I have the entire barrel floating. I have a smokeless muzzleloader that shoots lights out but with that (McGowen barrel also) I bedded about and inch or so of the barrel forward of the barrel nut (the nut is not bedded). I did this because the muzzle loader barrel is pretty heavy and I felt the extra bedding would take some strain off of the action.
The 6mm barrel is a Savage magnum contour. My question is do most of you free float the barrel or bed some of it.
I have noticed that even though I've probably shot about 150 rounds through the barrel it still copper fouls a lot.

**foxx** · 10-29-2017, 12:17 PM

All my barrels, heavy or light are free floated from the reoil lug forward. I suppose you could bed the first few inches of a heavy barrel for the reasons you said, but I don't see it making that big of a difference like you are seeing.

Not knowing how much experience you have reloading, so gotta ask... Are you maybe on the edge of a node? Perhaps your load is not what it likes under various conditions like temp fluctuation. If I were you, and was convinced everything is mechanically sound and secure, I would work more on your loads and even other powders, as well as annealing the brass and resize. Maybe get a whole new box of Lapua brass. I just don't believe it could be anything other than your loads.

**Johnny_V** · 10-29-2017, 01:26 PM

I have to agree with foxx, some powders are more sensitive to temperature change than others, also how the rifling is cut. A good example is a friend's 300WM loves IMR 4064, while my 300WM loves IMR4350 with everything else being equal. When I use 4064, my groups expand to more than double, but when he uses 4350, his rifle shoots equal to mine with the same charge. Go figure......

**deertroy1** · 10-29-2017, 04:04 PM

Here's the targets. Around 47.1gr - 47.4gr seemed best so I settled on 47.2gr and decided to try different seating depths. The original loads were seated 2.77" so I tried 2.78", 2.80" and 2.82". I was surprised to see 2.78" load now shot over 1.5"!

**foxx** · 10-29-2017, 04:21 PM

You haven't found your load yet.

**deertroy1** · 10-29-2017, 04:28 PM

Explain? Educate me.

**foxx** · 10-29-2017, 04:42 PM

I can't. I am not trying to be elusive or a smart-ask or anything like that, I just don't see anything here. I think you need to start again with fresh brass and start again looking for nodes. There's no way you can lose that much accuracy just by changing your seating depth a little bit. I am no expert, I just don't see it.

I usually start with bullet seated just off the lands and and at charges just below mid range as per manual. Once I think I find a good node, I confirm with multiple groups of 3 shots with identical load and seating depth, etc. If it is consistent, then I play around with seating depth. I don't think you are there yet. Also, I don't assume a particular rifle and bullet will like a particular powder. So I am just saying you have a lot more to do before you even imagine there's a problem with your gun.

**deertroy1** · 10-29-2017, 05:11 PM

I can't get anywhere near the lands. Other than Varget I also tried RL15 and W760. For bullets I've tried Nosler 55gr B-Tips, Sierra 55gr B-King and Hornady 58gr V-Max. I agree that 0.010" seating depth shouldn't have such a dramatic affect on accuracy. I also realize 55gr bullets may be light for a 1-9" twist but I'd be content with 0.75" groups if they were consistent.

**Johnny_V** · 10-29-2017, 07:00 PM

Maybe the gun doesn't like the bullet. Rifling twist has adverse effects on bullets designed for different twists - try a different weight/brand bullet (a bit heavier bullet might shrink things). Also, full length opposed to neck sizing. Are the case necks concentric? You could try bedding the chamber end of the barrel to see if that changes things, but I think you haven't found the right load for the gun yet. This, of course, is just my 2¢, but I would for sure try something different to see if things change.

**deertroy1** · 10-29-2017, 08:11 PM

Well, like I said, I've tried three different brands of bullets although they were all light weights. I have some 100gr Hornady and 105 grain Speer's I can try. I was hoping to find a coyote load.

**foxx** · 10-29-2017, 08:31 PM

Well, it looks to me like your load is WAY over max published limits. Nosler manual states 43.0-47 Max. I think you need to back off to 44 or 45 and then work up from there. Use new brass or anneal what you have and full length resize it. Your rifle is not the problem. You don't have a load for it yet.

**deertroy1** · 10-29-2017, 09:11 PM

My loads are over max however my rifle has a pretty long throat. That coupled with the fact that my brass holds three grains of water more than what Quickload list for the 6mm Rem. My velocities are about equal to book loads. For instance: Nosler list 47gr max for the 55gr bullet and a velocity of 4002 fps from a 24" barrel. My load of 47.1gr went 3785 fps from my 22" barrel. Quickload gives me the following:
I realize Quickload needs to be taken with a grain of salt but I have no signs of high pressure what so ever.
I'm not disagreeing with you. I ask for advice and you are probably correct. I need to do more shooting.
My brass is new or was. It's now once fired.
Do you think the cooper fouling will ease up with more rounds fired.

**Ted_Feasel** · 11-04-2017, 02:39 PM

Originally Posted by deertroy1

I built a new rifle. I used a M11 action, McGowen prefit barrel in 6mm Remington and a Boyds laminate stock which I pillar bedded with Devcon. So far everything I've tried shoots around 1" - 1.5". I've got a lot of groups around 0.5" - 0.75" but when I try the load on another day it's 1.5"?
Right now I have the entire barrel floating. I have a smokeless muzzleloader that shoots lights out but with that (McGowen barrel also) I bedded about and inch or so of the barrel forward of the barrel nut (the nut is not bedded). I did this because the muzzle loader barrel is pretty heavy and I felt the extra bedding would take some strain off of the action.
The 6mm barrel is a Savage magnum contour. My question is do most of you free float the barrel or bed some of it.
I have noticed that even though I've probably shot about 150 rounds through the barrel it still copper fouls a lot.

Imho, one of the guys hit your most likely culprit... with a 1/9 barrel, I would use heavier gr bullet.. also look for a burn rate chart on powders ( I know the list is somewhat relative and subject to change) but look for a powder that matches your barrel length (again kinda a relative point) but still shorter barrel usually equals faster burn and longer barrel equals slower burn. I've been working off 16" being short and 24 or more being long.. following these has worked for me in nailing down good loads for 3 different rifles... .308, 22-250 and 338 Winchester mag

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**deertroy1** · 11-13-2017, 04:11 PM

Still trying different loads. Same result

**Ted_Feasel** · 11-13-2017, 04:16 PM

Originally Posted by deertroy1

Still trying different loads. Same result

It can take a long time to find that perfect load. You just have to go through the powders start low, for example... I loaded 5 rounds at each node going in .2 increments.. I got pretty lucky and only had to go through to types of powder before I found mine but I've seen where it to folks 600 rounds of going methodically through the step... be patient and hang in there you WILL find it :)

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**deertroy1** · 11-13-2017, 05:03 PM

Just didn't expect an aftermarket barrel to shoot about the same as something I could have purchased off the shelf. I got a Hart barrel in 300 Win Mag that cleans up with no effort and shoots just about anything good and some things great.

**Ted_Feasel** · 11-13-2017, 05:06 PM

Originally Posted by deertroy1

Just didn't expect an aftermarket barrel to shoot about the same as something I could have purchased off the shelf. I got a Hart barrel in 300 Win Mag that cleans up with no effort and shoots just about anything good and some things great.

What kind of barrel

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**Ted_Feasel** · 11-13-2017, 05:10 PM

Originally Posted by deertroy1

Just didn't expect an aftermarket barrel to shoot about the same as something I could have purchased off the shelf. I got a Hart barrel in 300 Win Mag that cleans up with no effort and shoots just about anything good and some things great.

The shilen I put on my savage shoots it all good but when I found my node it was amazing

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