Model 10 in stainless fluted 24" 6.5creedmoor?

[Edub1223]

Does/ did savage make the model 10 (not BA) in the 24" fluted and threaded barrel in 6.5 creedmoor? Available in stainless?


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[Robinhood]

I dont think so. The custom shop might do it for you. What is it you are looking for? A Fluted 24" stainless 6.5 Creedmoor savage non axis?

[Edub1223]

I dont think so. The custom shop might do it for you. What is it you are looking for? A Fluted 24" stainless 6.5 Creedmoor savage non axis?

Yes, basically the Model 10T with stainless fluted barrel.


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[Robinhood]

Buy a 10T. Then buy a fluted 24" 6.5 Creedmoor barrel in stainless. Buy or borrow a set of 6.5 Creedmoor go & no go gauges, a wrench and barrel vice or action wrench. Remove and sell the Carbon steel barrel from the carbon steel action, Screw the stainless steel barrel and and set headspace. Tighten nut and recheck. There you have it. A Black receiver and nut with a silver stainless barrel. It is not necessary but this would be a good time to change the recoil lug. If you step up to a model 12 or 16 you can get a stainless receiver.

[Edub1223]

Buy a 10T. Then buy a fluted 24" 6.5 Creedmoor barrel in stainless. Buy or borrow a set of 6.5 Creedmoor go & no go gauges, a wrench and barrel vice or action wrench. Remove and sell the Carbon steel barrel from the carbon steel action, Screw the stainless steel barrel and and set headspace. Tighten nut and recheck. There you have it. A Black receiver and nut with a silver stainless barrel. It is not necessary but this would be a good time to change the recoil lug. If you step up to a model 12 or 16 you can get a stainless receiver.

I honestly never thought to build it. Thanks for the suggestion. I might stick with the carbon, run a few thousand rounds and then re barrel in the SS. I'm new to the forum. Are there issues with the recoil lug in the model 10?


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[Phranque]

I honestly never thought to build it. Thanks for the suggestion. I might stick with the carbon, run a few thousand rounds and then re barrel in the SS. I'm new to the forum. Are there issues with the recoil lug in the model 10?


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Re-barreling a Savage is pretty easy, which is why we love them so much. A 'smith will probably charge around $100 or so to do it.... for just a little more invested in the required tools, you can do as many times as you want yourself!

Factory recoil lugs are stamped, which tend not to give the truest face square to the action. They do OK for what they are, but whenever you re-barrel, it's always recommended to just go ahead pick up a machined lug to replace it. It provides an improved even distribution of the recoil into the stock/chassis.

[Edub1223]

Re-barreling a Savage is pretty easy, which is why we love them so much. A 'smith will probably charge around $100 or so to do it.... for just a little more invested in the required tools, you can do as many times as you want yourself!

Factory recoil lugs are stamped, which tend not to give the truest face square to the action. They do OK for what they are, but whenever you re-barrel, it's always recommended to just go ahead pick up a machined lug to replace it. It provides an improved even distribution of the recoil into the stock/chassis.

I guess that makes sense when re-barreling. My entire purpose for this rifle is a quality high-precision that's fully capable from 100yds to 500+yds and all the way out to 1,000yds for both target and hunting without starting at $1,200+ optic. I'd never hunt it past 500yd with the 6.5CM but would love to ring the gong at 1,000yd! Cake and eat it too, I know. I keep coming back to the model 10 because of the features like accustock, accutrigger (I love the accutrigger on my .270 axis), threaded barrel, 10rd box mag, 24", 1 piece optic mount, and fluted barrel. The model 11 long range is next closest IMO but 26" is more than I wanted, plus I'd rather put the $200 extra into the optic. And I can't get over the cheek rest either...

I also don't want a full tacticool skeletonized AR styled, quadrailed, pistol griped gun. I already have an expensive AR that I don't like or shoot! This is why the model 10AB and similar is out for me.

You seem like you really know what you're talking about when it comes to savage rifles so any comments you may have on my unrealistic wishlist would be appreciated...


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[Robinhood]

If you do decide to go with an Accustock you will have some considerations with regards to replacing the Recoil Lug.

[Bowguy]

I suppose you have looked at the Model 10 Predator Max-1 comes with the accustock.

[J.Baker]

If it were me, and I lived where you live, and I was looking to buy a 6.5 Creedmoor, I would definitely go with a stainless steel for the added corrosion resistance. Only SS factory 110-series rifles I know of in 6.5 CM are the Model 16 FCSS, Model 16 Trophy Hunter, and Model 16 Lightweight Hunter. All of these are sporter barrel models with synthetic stocks.

Another option would be to special order what you want from the factory. Would probably take 3-4 months to build as the barrel isn't a standard production item, but they could make you exactly what you want. Price would be a little higher though as it's a custom build and they have to pay someone to walk it through the factory to be assembled.

Third option is to build. NSS has stainless steel varmint repeater actions for sale. NSS carries barrels as well, but they won't be fluted or threaded so you would still need a gunsmith to do that for you if they're must have features. That just leaves a stock to which there are plenty of aftermarket options available to choose from.