Reply With QuoteMy first thought is you have a primary extraction issue.
Hello!
My 10 FCP extracts spent cases only if I push the bolt handle up all the way and give a little tension to it while pulling the bolt back.
If I pull the bolt out only a little amount and I shake the bolt handle a little bit the case and the extractor loose their connection and you
have to get out the case with the fingers. So I'm wondering if it is normal that the bolt is very loose in the action or if I can adjust this by hand.
I read a lot about replacing the extractor with a 3rd party product (e.g. from SSS) but I don't think the extractor would solve the problem
because of the loose bolt in the action.
Thank your for your replies,
regards
Please excuse my poor English but I hope I could explain what I mean.
My first thought is you have a primary extraction issue.
What does that means?Originally Posted by olddav
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Patrick, I would first carefully disassemble the extractor and clean it. The spring and hole may have some grime that is inhibiting the proper movement. You can also replace the the detent ball under the extractor. this will remove some of the in/out slop of the extractor. Probably Amazon or something will have the replacement size in a 25 quantity. I forget the size but if you measure it with a caliper that will give you an idea. Bigger than the original and smaller than the hole. Not trying to bash olddav at all but this does not resemble a primary extraction issue to me.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I read something about that. I will try to replace the detent ball with a 3.5mm one. I will report if this solves the issue. Thanks
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I don't feel bashed at all, an opinion contrary to my own is just more info to consider.
Besides I'm wrong at least as much as I'm right!
I alway suspect primary extraction first because it is the easiest to check. Slide in a feeler gauge (or business card or two) between the rear bridge and the rear baffle and see if the condition improves.
Cleaning the extractor hole and parts as well as swapping to a larger ball is a good idea even if you aren't trying to fix a problem.
If it were me, I'd do both.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
when I first got my savage 11 i noticed the bolt handle had to go all the way to the top and click before it will pull back.then I had the bolt get stuck on a reload and had no choice but to beat it out ended up chipping the extractor.I replaced it with a ss up grade kit.
Could you elaborate the feeler gauge test ? Also if it is the problem, what is the fix ?
This may explain the procedure: http://youtu.be/x-1ddHYW6wA
He put the feeler in the wrong place. It needs to go between the baffle and the rear of the action, not between the baffle and the bolt handle.
If it does fix your extraction issue, there's a couple ways to fix it.
-Change the baffle and/or bolt handle. This might work if you have extras.
-Make a shim that stays between the baffle and action.
-Drill/tap the baffle for set screws that will stand proud acting as a spacer/shim. I learned of this method from Billpa.
- I'm sure there are other ways as well.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
I was going to say something....but then you have to answer another 3 or 4 questions!
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Go for it.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
That makes sense now thanks. Never heard of this issue before now though.
Not my video but please explain why it matters where you place the feeler gauge.
If I am understanding this correctly, as long as the gauge is between the ramps it will do the same thing as between the action and baffle. From what I can tell, it just brings the ramp tolerances closer together, for more efficient extraction.
I'm just trying to understand why placing the gauge between the bolt handle and the rear baffle is the wrong place. Is this just a preference or ...... Perhaps I'm just over thinking this!
After reviewing earlier post I think I understand the statement now, and I was over thinking it.
The reason you want to go in front of the baffle is that is where you'll place the spacer, shim, or whatever. It's testing function and measuring for the fix all at the same time.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
I am having this issue as well. I have narrowed it down to the primary extraction issue. Has anyone had to replace their handle to correct this and if so which one did you go with. There are so many out there. I want one that will fix it instead of crossing my fingers. I really do not want to have to drill and tap on my new rifle if I do not have too.
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