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Thread: Looking for a new 6.5 Creedmoor - Which Model?

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    Looking for a new 6.5 Creedmoor - Which Model?


    Decided on the caliber but not so with the model. I have looked at the model 10 Predator with the accustock but would like opinions from those more familiar with the different models. Would like to keep the barrel length at 24" otherwise the 12FV seems to have good reviews. This rifle will be used for target shooting out to 500 yards and antelope hunting where my experience has been not much over 400 yards. Thanks for your suggestions. Bob

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    http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/model/12LRP

    Savage 12 LRP all the way


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    Thanks, and I couldn't agree more. I have this one in 6mmBR that has been a fantastic shooter. I am now looking for something that will be more suitable carrying it over several days (typically) chasing prong horns across eastern Montana and elsewhere.

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    Basic Member SageRat Shooter's Avatar
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    look at the 11/111 trophy hunter series... You can always upgrade the stock and barrel down the road. but the LRP or the FV are the best 2 options you have in a Savage.

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    The Predator model you mentioned looks to be your best choice for what you're doing.

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    For rebarreling later:

    Is the LRP large shank barrel?

    I know FV is small shank.

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    Basic Member SageRat Shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hereinaz View Post
    For rebarreling later:

    Is the LRP large shank barrel?

    I know FV is small shank.
    The way I understand it....
    Large shank=magnum calibers
    Small shank= all other calibers.

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    The LRP has the large shank.

    An aftermarket stock is already being considered, depends...

    Again, thanks for your inputs.

  9. #9
    Basic Member SageRat Shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bowguy View Post
    The LRP has the large shank.
    I forgot about "target" actions.... the LRP is considered a target action.... My bad!

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    I got the 10GRS in 6.5CM and I'm starting to like it quite well. That stock is really comfortable and once I got rid of the sling swivel stud on the forearm, it's working pretty well off the bags. I replaced it with a McMillan flush mount swivel and it allows me to bring a swivel stud back for bipod attachment but easily remove it for use over a more conventional front and rear rest.

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    Large and small shank can use the same stocks. I've done it they are the same.

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    RCE1, took a look at the 10GRS. I can see why you like it. So many nice features built into this model. I have time to continue my search for my next (# 4) Savage. Plenty of time to be ready by mid-October. Bipods are a necessity when there no trees/rest for miles.

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    Finally decided on going with the model 10 Predator Hunter Max-1 Since this will be my wife's gun I already know the LOP will require a different stock than the stock it comes with. Next up will be dies, brass, bullets, etc. One thing leads to another but I do have an extra scope so that helps.

    Thanks again for the comments/suggestions.

  14. #14
    Basic Member big honkin jeep's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bowguy View Post
    Finally decided on going with the model 10 Predator Hunter Max-1 Since this will be my wife's gun I already know the LOP will require a different stock than the stock it comes with. Next up will be dies, brass, bullets, etc. One thing leads to another but I do have an extra scope so that helps.

    Thanks again for the comments/suggestions.
    No need to replace the stock. Just cut it down. the buttplate/recoil pad may need to be re contoured just a little but it's a piece of cake. It can be done easy enough by hand but even easier if you have access to a belt sander. Might be worth it to borrow one, buy a cheapo or even rent one from a tool rental.
    Just tape up over the original camo finish after you cut it down and then sand or file it down till it matches the new contour of the shortened stock.
    If you go really short and wind up cutting the pieces that the butt plate screws go into, they can easily be rebuilt by putting shoe polish on the screws to keep them from sticking and re building the pieces inside the buttstock out of an epoxy such as JB weld. I use pieces of masking tape to make small compartments to fill with epoxy and accept the screws.
    A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.

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    B.H.J., that's great news. I did a google search on cutting synthetic stocks and the info wasn't that good. Plus, with this stock being an accustock brought us more doubts. The 270 my wife has was easy to work (Model 700) being wood. I do have the tools you mentioned and will plan to follow your advise. The gun is scheduled to arrive in a couple days.

    I appreciate the info.

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