Reply With QuoteIt is so easy to move from one to the next why not try for yourself. Try the front one first.
I was wondering if anybody else feels this way? I felt like it was pretty tricky to set up. When I got it installed, I could get a light trigger pull, but the firing pin following through was just too much. I adjusted the pull weight to where it wasn't following through and it felt a little creepy. Like there was a tiny tiny first stage effect sometimes. I finally left it set at about 1.5lb and went shooting. So now I noticed that sometimes it goes off really easily and then other times is much harder. I probably fired about 50 rounds of 6.5 CM in my Model 10 GSR but it was so hot here I didn't really learn that much.
There are the three pivot points in this trigger design. I left it set the way it came from the factory, which I think was in the middle of the three. So what's the advantage of those different pivot points? Do I need to readjust the trigger now that the rifle's been shot a few times? Would I be better off with the Accutrigger? I don't look forward to replacing that safety detent spring, if that's the case, but the original trigger is still sitting on my bench. I will say that the Timney trigger I installed on my Ruger Precision Rifle has a much more consistent letoff. It's no Jewell or Shilen, but at least it's consistent.
If there are any setup tips I've missed in my research, I'd sure appreciate hearing about them. I really want to like this trigger...
It is so easy to move from one to the next why not try for yourself. Try the front one first.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I can't say I share your experiences. While setting it up was a bit of a challenge, once it was set (@ 14oz) I found it to be consistent and crisp. Then again I could just have low standards.
The different pin settings/holes are there to allow different leverage settings. Like a fulcrum, the position affects the required force applied by you to move the object. The closer the fulcrum is to the object, the less force required by you to move or "trigger" the object.
I really think you need to play around a bit with different positions until you find what feels best to you. Also, keep in mind there is a set screw somewhere there that adjusts for over travel (trigger movement rearward following the "tripping" of the sear. Ideally, you want no creep (trigger travel before the "trip" and little to no trigger travel after the "trip". Both of these can be adjusted quite easily and will normally need adjusting after making any other changes such as weight of pull or repositioning of the pivot pins.
do some adjustment on the trigger iv'e had one for over 12 years great trigger set at 4oz.
When I got it into my workshop and checked it with the Lyman trigger pull gauge, the pull ranged from 14oz to 1lb 8oz over 10 or 12 pulls, which confirms what I found at the range. I initially had it set for 8 oz and it followed through nearly every time I worked the bolt (gently). I have a number of benchrest rifles with 2 oz triggers. I spent a couple hours working with it when I first got it but never tried using the different pivot points.
If you have success at 4oz, do you have any other custom parts, like sear or firing pin...? I know that set at 4oz on my 10GSR the firing pin would follow through every time.
^^^You GOTTA use the different pivot points so as to utilize the leverage afforded by them. It is designed to have a RANGE of pull weight options because not everyone wants the lightest trigger possible.
What do you mean by "follow through"? was it tripping without touching the trigger?
Utilizing higher leverage pivot points, you can get a light trigger pull that does not "trip by itself."
Not so much tripping by itself but not cocking at all. The cocking piece wouldn't engage the sear at all till I got to a half pound of pull and not what I consider reliably till a pound and a half. I could accept this result except the pull weight is so variable, from 14oz to 24oz and all in between over a set of 12 consecutive measurements. I guess I'll have to play with the settings some more, but so far, it isn't an auspicious beginning...
Yes. It needs adjusting. It's not a trigger that can just be "slapped on" and expect it to work. There are even 2 sets of springs for it. One is for higher, "hunting" levels of pull, and another for lower or "target" levels of pull.
Also, you gotta understand that the sear needs to engage the trigger with a fairly high amount of tension and the creep has to first be set fairly high/long. The tension/friction/pressure against the sear must be maintained at that high level for as long as you own the gun. The trick is to get the levers within the trigger assembly to work together so as to require very little pull on the trigger's shoe to trip/ release the sear. Once that is done, you can adjust the creep and overtravel, then fine tune the other adjustments as necessary. Be sure to check for proper safety function as well.
Also, are you inspecting and testing for proper function with out the stock? If it isn't cocking to begin with, you should see that quite easily and adjust as necessary.
Watch the video
Accutrigger
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxC6V9482tI
Standard trigger
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sm2rEWFVvIU
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Was never impressed with the SAV-2. You can monkey with a 'bad' one for days and it will NEVER go safely under 1.5 lbs or so. Never experienced a 'good' one but people swear they are out there. On the other hand never had a bad SSS they all could go safely under 1 lb. without a bunch of malarkey. Trick on the SSS is not trimming the trigger bracket too far. If you trim it too far then the entire assy gets loose and the safety and overtravel adjustments get wonky sloppy. Just trim it barely far enough to get the screw in, good to go.
Well. I just wanted to follow up on my Sav-2 experience. After a short period of frustration, I gave them a call and had a nice conversation with Clay. He said they've had tremendous success with this model trigger and gave me a couple of pointers. He suggested I give it another try and if I was still less than thrilled, I could send it back to them and he'd send me another one. Excellent customer service. Not at all defensive or condescending, just very helpful. I was feeling better already.
I took it all apart and started over from scratch basically. Somehow, I'd missed the part where you polish the edge of the sear with 320 grit paper, which I did second time around. I reassembled everything, readjusted all the screws and got a much better result. There is an interesting relationship between the screws that control the trigger pull and the sear engagement. They really have to be adjusted together in order to get as much creep out of the system as possible and still have a safe engagement of the cocking piece. Overall, it's a very nice design and the company that makes it gets high marks for customer service. Of course, there are those who feel that a trigger pull of less than a pound isn't where they want to be, but it works for me. YMMV.
I will say that getting the trigger adjusted outside the stock won't necessarily work as desired once the stock is installed. I had my action in and out of the stock so many times I ended up using one of my electric screwdrivers.
Glad you got it worked out!
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