Hello all. I'm finally taking the plunge and jumping into things I don't know enough about. Just acquired a model ten, and is like to outline what's on it, what I plan to do, and what I will use it for. I'd love some input from y'all
Have
2003 Circa Savage 10 in .308
Rifle Basix trigger
Atlas Worx DBM with 10rd
Egw 20moa rail
Vortex precision rings
Vortex HST 6-24
New extractor and ejector with larger detent ball
Need : barrel and stock.
Very unsure on barrel. I'd love a bartlein, Krieger, or similar, but not sure I can afford 400 on a barrel right now. I am seriously considering clambering to 6.5 creedmore.
For a stock I am considering the boyds at one. Not sure your opinion, but it's adjustable and looks good to me. I believe once I get the stock and bed it, it should be good to go.
This will be my intro rifle into punching steel. It will also be my critter gitter (coyote and the like).
All feedback welcome. Sorry for long post
Ryan
Ryan, sounds like you are about to get a little more serious about shooting. I think you have a good plan. The 6.5 has lots of data and support. Some disagree but a clean/flat action face and barrel nut, and a flat recoil lug are worth the investment. A lapped barrel will give you more shots before scrubbing. Keep it fun and take short steps as you learn.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Already speaking Greek, although I am pretty sure I have the gist.Originally Posted by Robinhood
I'd like to assemble her and get her shooting. If she's not shooting as well as I had hoped, then I would venture into squaring and blueprinting.
With decent loads, aftermarket barrel, and bedded stock, I feel it should have no issue shooting close to 0.5 consistently all of my stock savages will shoot 1. Some have shot 3/4 or a hair better!
I think the first considerations should be based upon how much the finished gun will weigh. Are you going to be packing it around, up and down hills, or shooting from a hide? Bench or prone shooting only? Punching steel for the thrill of ringing the bell at distance or in competition?
These considerations will help you choose barrel length and profile, stock type and material, magazine or single feed. There are some fairly cheap Savage pre-fits available, and more here in the want ads if you don't mind a new or slightly used barrel that has been removed from an action by member. I have built complete guns from parts sold entirely here.
A firearm optimized for shooting game is rarely a firearm also optimized for shooting target. But that's not to say you can't build a rifle that can do both decently well.
For your consideration, the 6mmBR is by design an inherently accurate cartridge, and very efficient in returning velocity for powder burned, a benefit when component cost is a consideration. With many bullets to choose from that will take small game/varmints quite well but also punch steel out to 1000 yds. For example, the Hornday 105 BTHP can do everything you outline, is inexpensive and yet very deadly out of an 8 twist barrel. You can quite easily take a coyote at 750 to 800 yds with this load.
Just food for thought. YMMV.
Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.
Texas, it won't be a rifle I'm trekking through back country. I will be shooting steel for fun. I imagine I might take my hand at a comp some day, but no day soon.
I do not want a 15lb rifle. Hoping to keep it closer to 8-10. That's with the vortex and a 6-9 swivel Harris mounted. I have been considering 24" barrel. Heavy Palma is one I've been looking at, but I would imagine that's a 5# barrel.
Told ya, I'm a nooby
Note - I wouldn't be upset if it were a solid round for whitetail inside 300yd or so, thus the reason I've been eyeballing the 6.5 or 260
Ryan
If you're going as far as upgrading the bbl you might as well include an upgraded recoil lug and nut.
6.5 creed is pretty popular with a great following and there are a good many number of factory makes and weights of ammo.
You might also also browse the classifieds and see what comes up for sale.
Touche. I am really having a hard time on the barrel front. So many mixed reviews of the "low end" barrels such as eabco and Shaw scare the chit out of me.
Recoil lug and nut were on the list :)
http://northlandshooterssupply.com/m...terion-savage/
How about just a bit over $300.00 for a match grade, hand lapped barrel? I'm a big fan of my criterion barrels that I have, but Shilen I hear is just as good. You can get everything you need pretty much (go/no go gauges, barrel nut, recoil lug, and Barrel nut wrench. The barrel vise, I'm not sure about though.... I just finished putting my 260 rem together in the last month, and she will shoot .5 MOA if I do my part.
Good luck man, It will become an addiction!
Be careful of using Palma weight barrel in a Boyd's AT-1 stock. Initial info was that the AT-1 would not take a heavy barrel. Talk to the people at Boyds first. other wise I think your on the right track. The Creedmore is highly thought of. Good luck.
All right, barrel has been ordered. 24" threaded ss Wilson arrel. I know there's not a lot of folks that have experience with them, so we shall see. Grabbed it from the guys at ragged hole. My min concern is the barrel at .700 and if I will have flyers after the barrel heats up
Where's the best and cheapest place to grab a recoil lug and nut?
NSS would be a good place to start, there are a handful of guys producing a few variances of recoil lugs.
I had planned on buying new, but just for the sake of argument - is it necessary for any reason to buy new?
Only if you want the best precision you can get. The Savage Recoil lug is not a "precision" lug.... I also think the Savage barrel nuts aren't that great either. But unless you have the smooth barrel nut, you can reuse it.
Nope, you could buy used and it should work just fine, unless it has been damaged or altered by the previous owner.
I do not have a smooth nut
What's the difference in lugs? I would assume(unless I'm crazy) that a flat piece of metal...is a flat piece of metal.
Ryan
it's a matter of quality... That's the only way I can describe it... If you order one when you order your barrel, you will be able to see what I'm talking about when you compare the one you have already and the one you order. Savage heats the barrel nut when they put it on originally, which results in a warping of the nut, therefore no longer "precisely" flat.
It's kind of like having your action face timed and trued as apposed to not doing it. I'm not a competition guy myself, but I wanted every last drop of accuracy I could get out of my build, just to shoot milk jugs, rabbits, foxes, PDs, coyotes, or any other varmint that may be in the fields out to 1000 yards.
You are "competing" There are dudes out there that can put 10 shots in the X ring @ 1000 yards in high winds.... If you want to WIN!! don't cut the corners on "precision"... it's a $27.00 item and the barrel nut is $28.00 (if ordered with the barrel).
Take it for what its worth.... My belief is: If I'm going to build something myself, "I'm going to do it right" to the best ability that my pocket book can tolerate... and an Extra $60 for a "Precision barrel nut and Recoil lug" isn't going to break the bank. Especially compared to the $1000.00+ you'll be spending on Optics alone...
Ok, my opinion here is that all the blueprint is vastly overrated and more so for the Savage.
Ditto for the nut and recoil lug (though having one to replace a smooth nut is a good idea)
Now, if we were all Dale Tubbs, maybe. Those very tiny improvements can mean the difference between 1st and tenth, for .00000001 % of the population.
Are we that .0000000001? I sure am not.
My opinion is you can build a 1/4 MOA rifle out of a basic Savage.
I would build up a good solid Savage and what you have done so far is fine.
Get any of the Shilen or Criterion pre fit Savage barrels (NSS). Lothar Walther does not make a pre fit for 6.5 yet, if they did that would be my first choices as its the best finish I have seen, harder metal (longer life) and at $327.
http://www.lothar-walther.com/339.php
They do make the 260 Remington (6.5) and the 6.5 Norma but not Lapua or Creed yet.
Yes its going to cost you $400. I would not try to do with a Standard savage barrel.
We need to quash that one immediately. Mr. Furious has been to the Savage plant, they do not heat the nut. Metallurgicaly heating it and letting it cool off in that configuration would cause it to loosen up. Its not an interference fit.it's a matter of quality... That's the only way I can describe it... If you order one when you order your barrel, you will be able to see what I'm talking about when you compare the one you have already and the one you order. Savage heats the barrel nut when they put it on originally, which results in a warping of the nut, therefore no longer "precisely" flat
The hard remove (very hard on some) is due to remands of polishing material in the barrel threads.
The contention is that the factory lugs are stamped out and not flat.I do not have a smooth nut
What's the difference in lugs? I would assume(unless I'm crazy) that a flat piece of metal...is a flat piece of metal.
Ryan
I have mike a couple and they are as flat as I can measure (granted down to .0005 but that's ****ed good)
Back to what I contend. You can build at least a good 3/8 Savage (maybe a bit better) off a Savage action and nut and lug.
I would put my money into a better barrel.
That said, a Stainless barrel nut is a cool looking accessory. I like some bling, but I know when its bling and not required.
I have already committed to the barrel. While I am listening to all of your recommendations, I am also forming my own opinions as to what to do
In lieu of what I've been reading(and trying to be a cheap ass), I am going to be re-using my nut and lug as I do not have a smooth nut. I have also corresponded with a local gunsmith who has many years building savages, and for what I'm wanting to do, I do not believe there's enough gain from switching those two components.
Barrel is ordered, it is a 24" #4 contour Wilson barrel. I will be running a JP Tank brake(had one laying around) on the rifle. I will also be grabbing a Boyds At-One stock and doing the bedding myself.
Once the rifle is together I'll report on how it shoots. I have some of the Hornady 147gr Match and 143gr ELD-X precision hunters to shoot through it.
Side note, if anyone has a use for the ugly original wood-style stock or the 17 3/4 308 barrel(rifling looks fine, but looks like some dumbass just chopped the barrel) those are available. Make an offer.
Got the barrel and brake in
Here's how it breaks down
Boyd's At One Stock in Coyote
Wilson 24" #4 contour barrel in 6.5
Impact muzzlebrake
EGW 20MOA base
Atlas Worx DBM
Rifle Basix Trigger
Vortex precision 1" rings
Vortex Razor LH 3-15 scope
Action, base, rings, scope, barrel, and brake are all currently getting cerakoted and I'll be ordering the stock shortly.
Used OEM barrel nut(sorry)
Side note : glad I decided to alter this thing. Took it to the shop and when it was put on a vise, the barrel nut wasn't even hand tight. It literally just spun offops:
Save your money and use the Savage recoil lug and barrel nut. Yes, you can buy better ones (I do that myself), but any improvement in performance will be so small that you can't measure it, especially if you're shooting factory ammo. If you want a light gun, you're gonna' have a small barrel and that will have a much greater negative effect on accuracy than using a factory barrel nut. Plus if you are forced by budget constraints to buy an inexpensive barrel, you can't count on keeping up with the big dogs when it comes to competitive shooting.
On the other hand, if you're going to carry the gun around in the field for the purposes of hunting, the last thing you want is a real target gun. As others have pointed out, you can't make a gun which will be a good hunting weapon and a good target gun too. However, you can have some fun ringing steel at moderate to semi-long ranges; longer than you'd want to shoot one of God's little furry creatures anyway. For that, your hunting gun will serve if you don't mind your buddies doing better with their heavier, target guns. If you're into long range hunting, then learning to hit a long distance steel target on the first, cold bore shot is a very good idea. Killing animals is just fine with me, but the operative word is "killing". You will be judged someday if you think that wounding animals is funny.
You can do just fine with a Boyd's stock but you should plan on bedding it.
I'd say you're off to a good start. Just don't count on winning any F-Class matches. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't give it a try. All you need is a rest or bipod and an old moving quilt. Find a low-key local match and ask for help. I guarantee you'll have fun and if nothing else it will be good training for bagging Bambi at 500 yards.
I appreciate the post. The gun is primarily for hunting, however I am wanting to use it to slap some steel as I've never had that chance.
I intend to bed the stock.
I have a swivel Harris 6-9 going on it
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks