I have a 10 FCP in .308 that I want to put a brake on and I was wondering what you guys are using or what you could recommend? This is a budget rifle shot primarily on a bipod from the bench or prone and I'd like to keep it under $100 if at all possible. The muzzle diameter is 0.800" so if there's something out there that will match up to it, that would be a bonus. Performance and value are more important than aesthetics but it would be nice if it looks like it belongs on there. Whatcha got?
- Kirk -
I highly recommend Kahntrol Solutions. I have been running the CWES Hexmod very successfully, but would look at the 3 Gun Brake as well. I switched over from an APA Brake after the first couple shots with one. They provide a great amount of recoil control and the ability to spot impacts even at very short distances!
The Hexmod looks interesting and is right on the edge of my budget.
- Kirk -
it's real easy to time and looks a lot better than the outer lock nut the most companies utilize.
Anyone else have a recommendation?
- Kirk -
Harrel's
I have a JP muzzle brake on two of my rifles and like them. However I have not shot any other brakes so I have nothing to compare them to.
https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPTRE-5.58S.925
Since I started shooting the Kahntrol Brake, and then a few weeks later was asked to join Team Kahntrol. I stopped looking, I've shot other guns with other brakes and even the more expensive stuff wasn't offering any more benefit than the Kahntrol brake. I don't like all the fancy baffles and swept back ports, because they are just harder to clean. Kahntrol brakes are simple and do exactly what they are designed to do. Also since the ports are cut flat, they are very easy to clean!
Lol, you can go crazy looking into brakes. There's so many and everyone says theres is the best. Well I settled on a Precision Armament M11. Their M4-72 got great reviews, but it's frigging loud, and most good brakes will be. I'm happy with the M11. World of difference on my 10 FCP. I no longer gave to try and to search for my target after firing and it's not too bad on the ears.
Order from Brownells, 365 days satisfaction return policy on everything they sell. If you don't like one, return it.
ZeroDelta/Alamo4Star. See the Precision Rifle Blog Muzzle Brake Field Test.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
That's a fact. I looked so long I gave up. That's why I'm asking you guys, lol.Originally Posted by rfkhunter
- Kirk -
Just put a Precision Firearms brake on my 65 Creed which made a noticeable difference.
https://secure.wf-api.com/www.precis...-diameter.html
I generally don't care for brakes, but I do have a Precision Armament M4-72 on one of my AR's. It does an excellent job of reducing recoil as my rifle barely even moves, but the ports are angled rearward a little more than I would prefer.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
Ross Schuler brake is the best I have ever used. Course you can always pay a lot more for a brake that does not do more.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I appreciate it.
- Kirk -
I put a Benchmark "Tactical" brake on my 6.5 Creedmoor barrel when Benchmark finished it for me. It's a modified CSR design with different angles cut in the slots and a compensator port on top. Also uses a single pinch bolt for timing. Right at the $100 mark.
Naturally the 6.5 Creedmoor isn't a real recoil monster that needs taming but the brake does make it a pleasure to shoot for 4-5 hours at a time. The compensator port holds the barrel down very nicely and bipod "jump" is a thing of the past regardless of hold.
Liked it so much I ordered another for the .308 barrel they are currently building for me.
A note, the compensator port is sized for each caliber. They stock them in small diameter "blanks" and both open up bore for caliber as well as drilling the correct size compensator port.
You can also get them without the pinch bolt and just time the brake using 5/8" X 1" "Arbor Washers" that can be purchased from Grainger in sizes from .0015" A package of .0015" and a package of .010" will allow one to put solid torque on the brake and shim enough to get a full rotation if necessary.
Take a look on the precision rifle series blog. There is a really in-depth comparison of muzzle breaks that quantifies the difference.
Personally I chose the jp tank looking break for my 10 fcp-sr in 308. My girlfriend would not shoot it before, but now she will.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
This is what I did a few months ago.
On a 6.5-06 Colombia Mauser build. This a 30-06 necked down to 6.5 so is has some punch. The Hawk Hill Brake was only $50 and is used by some of the best shooters interviewed by PSBlog. The Hawk Hill Brake tamed it down a ton.
I hate muzzle brakes, don't like the extra noise focused back toward the shooter.
I would rather have the recoil.
Virtually everyone at our club uses them. I don't even notice the difference in noise anymore. Besides, I'm not sure if I could since I'm wearing hearing protection. The recoil reduction and ability to stay on target after the shot sure seems worth it to me. My 6.5 CM feels like a .22 mag....
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
This is because most companies that make brakes angle the ports back towards the shooter believing that it is more effective. That Kahntrol Solutions brakes have flat ports and while greatly reducing felt recoil the sound and blast is sent to the sides vice back towards the shooter and others on the firing line. This also makes it much easier to clean the carbon from. I was running the APA Lil B before I tried a Kahntrol Brake. After a week of use and 1 match I was 100% sold on the difference. They're all I run now on my match rifles.
Yep.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks