Reply With QuoteI always use an action wrench but if I was you I would get the one from NSS along with the barrel nut wrench.
With the action wrench there is less chance of twisting the action.
Going to be doing my first barrel swap in a few weeks. I ordered a Wilson #4 from Ragged Hole barrels for my 16 LWH. I've watched a bunch of videos and searched here too but can't decide if the swap will be easier using a Wheeler barrel vise or their action wrench.
I don't have a bench vise at the moment so C-clamping the barrel vise to the bench is appealing but if the barrel is going to slip all over the place maybe the action wrench is the way to go.
Thanks as always for your sage advice.
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I always use an action wrench but if I was you I would get the one from NSS along with the barrel nut wrench.
With the action wrench there is less chance of twisting the action.
FROGGY
See profile for fire arms
Do it today there maybe no tomorrow
I second that. The equipment from NSS is top notch stuff. Swapped out 2 barrels with that equipment with no issues.
They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.
Sounds like a plan. How stout a bench vise will I need to hold the wrench?
I got an action wrench off of ebay. It has a machined slot for the recoil lug. The first time I used it, I over tightened the wrench so that it gripped the barrel even tighter...
I loosened the action wrench a little and the barrel came right off. It is much easier than a barrel vice.
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I use the wheeler action wrench. Took a piece of duct tape folded back on itself that is the same as the circumference on the rifle, punched a hole where the bolt goes through. This prevents any damage to the receiver bluing. I was worried that it would slip but it didn't. Its possible that it actually reduces the overall friction between the wrench and receiver and the additional torque is being loaded on the bolt that goes through the two. A piece of thin leather might be a better idea.
I like being able to squeeze the action with the action wrench. I'll only use enough torque on the wrench bolts as needed for removing the barrel and installing the new one. Once my headspace is set, I'll tighten down the bolts on the wrench so the barrel can't turn while I torque the barrel nut.
Spend the money and get a good vise like this Ken Farrell unit and you won't ever have need of an action vise. The cheaper thin ones that Brownells and Midway sell for $40-60 don't work the best for removing the factory installed barrel. Well worth the $150 if you plan on removing or swapping more than one or two barrels in your lifetime.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
I too started out looking, it became clear to me which was best. Nothing I have done since (6 swaps) has changed my mind.
With all due respect to Mr. Furious,
Get the NSS action wrench.
Its the best of the two types of action wrench (the receiver lug debacle one being the other) and its beautifully made with Savage specific aspect's made and works like a dream.
Cost is amazingly low as well which is a stunner. Wheeler, not so much. NSS yes.
I use both. It comes in handy when going back together. I made my own action wrench. Going to make some aluminum jaws for my barrel vise, the wood work for now.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I looked at what they had out there and did not ask anyone.
Having done mechanics for 50 some years, the NSS was the natural default choice.
It suited me and how I work and think.
Not true for all of course.
Pretty solid endorsement. How big a bench vise is needed to secure the action wrench assuming that's the best way to use it?Originally Posted by RC20
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I've swapped several barrels with the NSS action wrench clamped in a 4" bench vise. Clamped in a vise is handier IMO, but it can be used without a vise, it comes with a long bar that is threaded into the wrench and braced against the floor or bench top while removing the barrel nut.
I prefer to use both a barrel vise and the action wrench. In this case a 1903 Springfield that I was working on at the time. But use the same set-up when changing out Savage actions.
As rbp I have both, I use both on a no nut rig. On a nut rig I use only the vise and nut wrench, that way I don't have to remove the scope base. If you are very careful you can change a barrel and not even remove the scope.
I've removed literally hundreds of new and used factory barrels from Axis and 10/110's and installed aftermarket barrels in the past several years... My first were done with an action wrench. Then I got a good barrel vise and have not picked up the action wrench since.
And in the end you have to go with what seems to suit you.
If no background, makes for a harder choice.
Read the responses and see which resonates.
If none, I would go with NSS and then you can change latter (can always sell it on this group!)
I really don't see both, if you have the action wrench then you don't need the barrel.
note: If you do get the action, also get the NSS wrench. Its has some featur4es others do not. I would get the long one.
At some point you may run into a tough nut, with the NSS wrench and a breaker bar, you can bring considerable pressure on the nut.
My MO is to put it in the vice a bit offset (one the first one). I run the handle down past the vice, it acts a the counter arm, if the nut is a bugger, then it moves a shade against the bench and will go no further.
Foxx what vise are you using
Wheeler.
I have / had 4 different shops/locations. Had difficulty at one location temporarily because the bench I mounted the vise to was not absolutely rock solid. Once I corrected that issue, I had no more problems.
A "rear entry" action wrench if you must. Nothing wrong with using "barrel blocks". I have a Wheeler action wrench that I used one time. Never again!!
Clamped it around the action. Broke the nut loose. Tried to turn the barrel but all I got was a squeaky noise. Had to loosen the wrench so the barrel could spin. First and last time it got used. Costs more to ship it than it's worth or it would have been gone "long ago"!! Distorting the action so I could spin the barrel off?? I DON'T THINK SO!!
I don't bother to use my blocks anymore. Clamp the barrel in a padded vice jaws, pop the nut loose with it's wrench, spin it out. Done deal. Reverse the procedure, setting the headspace as you go. I've lost track of how many times I've swapped barrels on my rigs. Replacing a barrel for the first time can be a PITA. After that? Smooth as silk.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
Rear entry wrenches good for second-time around, but not recommended for removing factory installed barrels.
I'm in the middle of my build, waiting for my stock and barrel now. I bought just a action so I should be able to avoid the head aches from the factory barrel removal, correct..... Is it just the factory removal that is a pain or just your first time removing a barrel?
That is correct
You still have to get a barrel ON the gun.
And then you may well need to undo it to adjust the headspace that did not come out quite right.
And then back tight again.
That's where the tools are needed as well.
As long as you don't employ the same gorilla to tighten your barrel nut that Savage uses, then, yes, you are correct. It is much easier the second go round.
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Why not just use a barrel vice and nut wrench ? Just asking.
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