LRPV 6BR Hard Bolt Closure

[cladd2]

Just purchased a LRPV in 6BR caliber and upon firing the first few rounds found the bolt very hard to close on a live round - had to force it closed. The bolt closes ok on an empty chamber and a little harder on a resized case (full length resized with my Redding FL die adjusted to where it just touches the shell holder in the uppermost position). A fired case finds it much harder to close. Do I need to screw my resizing die down a little to bump the shoulder back a little? I will be using the same brass in my new Savage and my custom action BAT 6BR no neck turn (again I am full length resizing the cases).

I searched this forum and there seem to be a variety of solutions to the "hard bolt closing issue".

I did have a LRPV in 223 caliber and the bolt on it closed fine.

Thanks much.

[keeki]

To full length size, a redding die should be firmly touching the shellholder not just touching. Brass could be springing back also needing annealed. Be sure to lube the decap pin, it could be pulling the brass back out a little when exiting the case

[Old Swede]

I have had Hard Bolt Closure's when using range brass or once fired brass in several different caliber rifles.
Most of my problem has been solved with a Small Base Sizing Die.
If you are using new unfired brass this should not be an issue.
If you are going to switch from rifle to rifle using the same brass it may become a problem unless your chambers match.
I had this problem when loading for a friend we had the same model of rifle and caliber his chamber was slightly bigger.
I have had the problem sizing nickel brass and it not letting the bolt close properly.

[hereinaz]

If it is new, I would contact Savage. It could be a short chamber with minimal headspace.

I personally headspaced one gun and shot a box of Hornady. Found a couple rounds that were hard to chamber. One round actually wouldn't chamber. A box of Winchester were all hard to chamber, and one wouldn't.

The variations within a box could have given you the result. And, the same with your full length sizing.

Could be other explanations too.

As for my magnum, I use a full length die and bump back the shoulder.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[m12lrs]

You need to purchase this

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/47...hoCLe0QAvD_BwE

Measure your shoulder on your fired brass and adjust your sizing die to bump that shoulder back one to two thoudands. Lots of utube videos on how to do it.

Or do it the old timey way. Adjust your die in tiny increments to bump the shoulder trying the brass in your rifle each time until it chambers easily. Problem with this method is it is very easy to go too far and not know it.

[short round]

It's a best to use brass in one rifle, so make one batch for each rifle. Bolt hard to close may be a sizing problem, but the bullet may be seated to long. Try unloaded sized brass in chamber if bolt closes easily, and a loaded round is difficult try seating the bullet a little shorter.

[bsekf]

Separate your brass. No way both rifles have identical chambers. Get the Hornady headspace gauge and a micrometer. Carefully measure the cases that don't fit. There is a possibility your seating die or FL die is upsetting the neck or shoulder.

[hereinaz]

Separate your brass. No way both rifles have identical chambers. Get the Hornady headspace gauge and a micrometer. Carefully measure the cases that don't fit. There is a possibility your seating die or FL die is upsetting the neck or shoulder.

If he sizes the brass to the smallest chamber with a full size die, then he can use the same ammo in both guns.

He won't wring out the most accuracy, but who knows if he needs it or wants it.

But, your advice is good.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[cladd2]

Thanks for the tips and to answer the one question - yes accuracy is very important as I compete with both rifles in varmint matches. I also use the custom BAT action gun in 600 yard matches. All my brass (200 cases) have been shot in my custom 6BR - should I just separate 100/100 and then resize 100 to fit my Savage BR by bumping back until the bolt closes easily? All 200 pieces work well in my custom BAT now.

Thanks

[hereinaz]

Separate brass for accuracy.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[rjtfroggy]

Yes but only if you are going to use different dies or readjust each time. Personally I would use different brass and die, or you could swap barrels and change that Savage to a 30BR.

[hereinaz]

Now knowing that you had brass sized for a different rifle, The Savage may not be short chambered, because there are tolerances to be in specification.

I personally would start with brand new brass for the Savage.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[m12lrs]

Now knowing that you had brass sized for a different rifle, The Savage may not be short chambered, because there are tolerances to be in specification.

I personally would start with brand new brass for the Savage.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I have separate brass and dies for each of my rifles. No chamber is exactly the same. Just like every barrel is different

[psharon97]

Have you checked the headspace in the rifle? You can rent the headspace gauges from here https://www.reamerrentals.com/Produc...ctCode=6BR%2Eg

[Robinhood]

Is the trouble with the brass shoulder or the bullet in the lands?

Bullet in the Lands: Set the bullet deeper.

Brass: Shoulder is too long for current headspacing

1. Check headspace(Optional) Measure fired case head-space and compare to gauge and sized or other brass that will not chamber

2. Set the die to cam over on any press other than a Lee. you may have to try another die or remove a few thousands of an inch from the bottom of the die or top of the holder to get the sizing correct. Some holders are a different height.

3. Check size of fired brass and check size of sized brass and compare. If you get spring back you will need to anneal. Test your theory by sizing new brass and compare that to some older brass that will not chamber after sizing. Ed will have some great Gif's and illustrations here pretty soon.

[Scott Evans]

To full length size, a redding die should be firmly touching the shellholder not just touching. Brass could be springing back also needing annealed. Be sure to lube the decap pin, it could be pulling the brass back out a little when exiting the case

No, you should be using a PPC diameter (1.5mm) decapping pin on any Lapua 6BR brass. If you can feel the decap pin stick in the flash hole its the wrong one. Throw the .0625" pins away. 'PPC style' flash holes are ~.002" smaller diameter than a std decapping pin.

[keeki]

Not talking about the tip of it, talking about the expander. Make sure you lube the inside of the case neck