Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Do I really need new bottom metal?

  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    6

    Do I really need new bottom metal?


    Called B&C yesterday to order one of the Target / Competition stocks for my 11VT. I was told that i would need to order new bottom metal from Savage. Can anyone confirm that? Seems like any stock for this model is going to require new bottom metal. (except the Choate (#25-06-16) which specifically says its for the models with mag release as part of the magazine). Any insight would be much appreciated.

  2. #2
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    NW Ohio
    Age
    49
    Posts
    6,466
    Yes, you will.

    The 11VT is a budget model put together as a special order model for the big box stores, and as such uses the Axis-style magazine. The Choate stocks are setup for the premium detachable magazines as found on the higher end Savages with bottom metal plate and metal magazine surround hardware that bolts to the stock.

  3. #3
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    310
    I'm running my 11VT with the plastic axis style bottom "metal" with an HS precision stock. It works but I don't like how the action screws sandwich the plastic. I also feel like the plastic tab that "locks" the magazine in place is very flimsy and probably won't last. If you have an opportunity to pick up decent deal on a bottom metal and have it inletted with your new stock, I would go for it. Especially if you can get one that converts to the AI type mags, magpul produces these for around $35 apiece. If not, I would try it out with your current bottom metal and see how it works for you and then go from there.

  4. #4
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Grand Blanc, MI
    Age
    59
    Posts
    3,677
    Adding to what Mr. Furious said...

    The stock on the 11VT, in all likelihood, does not even have removable "bottom metal", plastic or otherwise. I believe it is like the newer Trophy Hunters that have the plastic bottom metal molded into the stock. THerefore, using the Axis style mag is not even an option with your new stock. If you want to save $70, you can order plastic version of the premium bottom metal that DOES use the Axis style mags, but I don't recommend it. You are buying a premium stock, you might as well add the premium dbm parts that go with it.

    Put another way, you either need to order plastic "bottom metal" for $15 or premium metal "bottom metal" for $75.

  5. #5
    Banned
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    1,653
    I just gave up the bottom stuff entirely and went single shot.

    I got the filled in bottom stock, put a wooden block in it, added some furring strips to bring up to level and single shoot it.

    I moved the Bottom bolt release to a TBR.

  6. #6
    New Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    6
    RC20, I'm with you on the single shot set up. With the exception of my magnum caliber hunting rifles, I almost always single load rounds when punching paper or varmint shooting. My plan was to upgrade this new 11VT and install a single shot follower at the same time. I knew I'd have the option to yank that follower out and go back to magazine loading if I needed to. This is why I hadnt seriously considered going with aftermarket bottom metal and AI style mags. I am going to pick up the rifle this afternoon. Soon as i get it home, I'll strip it down to see if the bottom components are part of the stock or removable. Either way, I still think I'm going to order that B&C target / competition stock. If I need to order parts to make everything fit, I can live with that. I just want it done.

  7. #7
    Banned
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    1,653
    I had decided to convert mine to TBR and I though that a non open bottom might make the stock a bit stiffer.

    So I ordered it as a TBR even though the gun was not.

    Ergo the filled in wood block and then the adding furring to get the level right. Works fine.

    TBR I bent the sear and it works perfectly as well though heat and move is likely better.

    Perfectly happy with it. It is my most modified as it has the 7.5 Swiss barrel on it (LW) first loads out were 5/8 at 110 yards. Life does not get any better than that.

    Bolt head was opened up to admit the larger case size. Works good other than some rims are thicker and others, some just stick in the bolt on extractions. Not sure if more opening helps but miner aspect.

    And just to make it even more interesting, my gun fell off the wagon hauling my stuff to the bench, scope is out of whack about 20 inches high but otherwise dead on accurate.

    So I got a low cost Weaver 20 MOA rail and mounted it backwards. Spot on. I could turn the scope upside down but then hard to adjust.

    I can't get it fixed, Cabella no longer has that model. Love it, got it for under $200, best cross hairs for my eyes and 12x. My eyes are picky about scopes.

    Always fun to find a way around a problem. I want to shoot 1000 I just put on a flat rail. When I got for 2500 yards (in my dreams) I can add the 20 MOA the right way. Very flexible setup, intended or not!

  8. #8
    New Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    6
    I received my B&C #2012-97 stock last week. It is a fine specimen. Probably one of the most comfortable stocks i've shouldered. I test fit the plastic "bottom metal" from my 11VT and everything fit like a glove. I then fully assembled the rifle with the new stock and again, everything went together like it was supposed to. The barrel was free floated all the way up to the rear of the barrel nut. There was a bit of a snag there, but once I took everything apart again, I could see that it was just a high spot in the paint that was rubbing the barrel nut. I also noticed a bit of paint rub on the ejection port side of the action. Upon close inspection, I noticed a tiny ridge of paint just on the point where the edge of the stock meets the bedding block. I figure a quick hit with some very fine sandpaper will solve that problem. So far I am very happy with this stock. I am not going to buy "bottom metal" yet because the factory plastic pieces seem to work just fine and I am going to shoot it first to see what it'll do before I bed it.

  9. #9
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Grand Blanc, MI
    Age
    59
    Posts
    3,677
    Good. Glad to hear it. Thanks for following up.

    Now, just so everyone understands. You were not forced to by bottom metal because your original rifle had "removable bottom metal". It was plastic, but it fits fine. Had it been non-removable such as the Trophy Hunter models ("bottom metal" is molded into the stock), you would have had to buy either plastic set of bottom metal or much more expensive metal set of bottom metal.

Similar Threads

  1. Metal Bottom Metal Replacement Parts Cost
    By Chrazy-Chris in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-18-2017, 05:57 PM
  2. bottom bolt release and bottom metal?
    By rooster79 in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-17-2014, 08:06 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •