I am in the process of gathering the items needed to fit my 11vt into an accustock. I purchased the tools to remove the barrel from a member on this forum and now researching recoil lugs while keeping an eye open for an accustock. Does anyone know if the "0.190" Recoil Lug Parallel - 4140" from Pacific Tool and Gauge is the same size and thickness as the factory accustock style recoil lug? I know the factory accustock lugs are stamped and not pinned like the Pacific Tool model. The pin should help with installation and I would prefer not to modify the stock due to a thicker lug. Thanks for reading.
You will not need to modify the stock for a thicker lug. There is plenty of room in the factory inletting. You will, however, need to grind the sides of the lug in order to fit it into an accustock. Do a little google image searching and compare the standard lug to the accustock lug and you'll see what needs to be done.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
There are 2 types of accustock recoil lugs. The first generation being similar to the axis line of rifles. The second gen is thinner around the sides.
Savage factory recoil lugs have a tang protruding out to fit in the recess of the receiver to align themselves.
I have Hollands recoil lugs that have a pin, and the pin is very thin and is useless in aligning the lug.
SSS recoil lugs have a thick pin that fits the the receiver recess, aiding their alignment.
Thanks for the replies. I should have been a little more clear in my post and will update it. My question - is the Pacific Tool recoil lug mentioned above the same shape as the Savage accustock style recoil lug. I would like to purchase a lug that will not require grinding.
Also, I checked out the Hollands and SSS recoil lugs. They both appear to be the non-accustock style, but look to be quality.
If it looks like this one then yes.
http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/paral...age&results=57
Assuming you have a large shank action.
Thanks olddav. The recoil lug I am looking at does look that way only a small shank option. Is there any advantage to using a .250 lug over the .19? Its going to be on a .308 Win if that matters. Link:
http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/paral...llel-4140.html
I don't know where, but I read that the aluminum bedding in the accustock may need to be modified to accommodate a thicker aftermarket recoil lug. Maybe Hotolds442 can help me on this. I assume the .190 or a .250 lug would drop right into the accustock without issue?
I appreciate all the info!
Small shank lugs accu and non accustock ones I have measure 0.187"
No idea about large shank measurements.
Yes the accustock recoil recess can only accomodate up to 0.190".... However, it's not hard to dremel the front portion to accommodate a thicker lug.
The accustock I measured could only accomodate 0.190" thick lug. It's a older FCP-K accustock I measured.
Thank you!! That should get me going. Pacific Tool offers a .187 also.
The factory lug I removed from my accustock measured 0.187. I ordered the PTG 4140 stainless steel , but had to grind the sides and center to accommodate the recoil lug slot. There is a center rail in the slot that requires some changes to the lug. It seemed like a better option than trying to fit the aluminum bedding to the lug. Ref number I bought was 5beba80c. With my below average skills with a file and polishing bits, the job took about 2hrs. I could not find an aftermarket lug that was as short as the factory lug. If it would help, I can email a pic of the lug after grinding to fit.
For what its worth, my NSS lug was too thick for my stock.
I simply opened up the stock a bit.
A lot of times there is a bit of work required for any after market part.
The wisdom is in knowing what is a leap to far and what is do able.
I opened up the bolt head for my 7.5 Swiss. I have done that kind of fitting work before and felt I could do it.
However, I also had a backup bolt in the same long action that if I did muck it up I could keep shooting until I could get a new bolt head.
You just weigh the plus end and minus end and then decide to do it or not, but you should always be comfortable with the decision, not force it.
What works for one person can be a huge challenge for someone else. Experience, tools, all that weighs in.
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Yes. This is the one I would order...
http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/paral...llel-4140.html
I am looking at the lug that Zero33 posted above http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/paral...llel-4140.html.
It looks like MS50 ordered the same lug only in stainless and still had to modify it slightly. I have the tools to make a small adjustment. Anyone have a factory accustock lug laying around that they would loan out or sell cheap so I have a template to work with?
Make a template of the accustock recess with cardboard, then trace it onto the lug. It doesn't have to be a perfect fit. You don't want the sides touching anyways so it's no big deal if you file away a little extra of the sides to make sure it fits.
I just received the .187" parallel side recoil lugs from PT&G and they will require a lot of work to make useable for the Accustock. You will have to file, grind, or mill it down to fit the Accustock on both sides and the bottom of the lug. It is way oversized for the Accustock, however in my search I never found an aftermarket recoil lug specifically made for the Accustock.
One thing to know a factory lug doesn't have anything to align it to your action. The PT&G lugs are drilled to accept an alignment pin, but it'll be very tiny. I just bought a recoil lug alignment tool from Badger Ordanace but I'll have to shim the sides for work with the Accustock recoil lug.
Here is a pic of a factory lug next to the PT&G lugs. I'm sending mine off to be milled to the correct size. While I could probably grind and file to fit correctly given enough time, but milling will give me a better finished product.
Thanks for the pictures and I can see the difference. Let me know how the milling turns out. I may see if PTG would be able to mill a lug to the accustock lug specs.
Might be less expensive to have them grind a dowel pin so one end fits the hole in their lug and the other is a closer fit to the recess in the Savage action. They make these lugs for both Remingtons and Savage. The Remington's get pinned and there isn't a lot of metal on the front of the action to allow a larger pin hole. Creating a lug with a raised index "key" would be most likely a whole lot more expensive.
One might be even creative enough to chuck a larger dowel pin in a lathe and use a tool post grinder to grind one end to fit the lug. Might even be possible to do the same using a drill press and a Dremel with grinding wheel and steady hand. Start with a long dowel pin so it's easier to grip and then press into lug using a vise (with a piece of hardwood on the rear jaw to prevent damage to the lug. Then merely grind excess off exposed end of dowel pin so it doesn't bottom out in action recess.
I was able to remove the barrel with no issues and my homemade barrel vise worked great (pic below). Does anyone have any tips for installing the unpinned accustock recoil lug and getting everything to line up properly? Any advice is appreciated.
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