Reply With QuoteDenver. The part (front baffle)that is behind the bolt head rotates. Align it with the bolthead and it will slide right in.
Just finished cleaning / lining my model 10 with plans to shoot tomorrow. It appears that my bolt face (terminology?) is rotated, the way it does when your operate the action, but it's interfering with the receiver when I try to reinsert the bolt. The bolt release is functional, I see it move when you push the button.
I take the bolt in and out of this gun every time and shoot and never had this problem before...
Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Denver. The part (front baffle)that is behind the bolt head rotates. Align it with the bolthead and it will slide right in.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I figured that maybe the problem. Tried rotating the bolt while partially inserted into the receiver, did not budge. I did not apply too much pressure as I am afraid to damage the receiver.Originally Posted by Robinhood
looking at the picture you can see the two pieces do not line up. One piece moves the other is locked in by the cross pin. The piece behind the bolthead is called the front baffle, it is the browner looking piece in your picture. It should rotate like a wind vane. If it does not the bolt needs to come apart.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Used a wrench. Got it. Thanks!
Find the front baffle on this picture. You can see how it will easily turn.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
a two year olds finger should be able to turn it. If it took a wrench to move it lubricate it well and keep it out of salt water.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I have this problem from time to time after lubing the bolt lugs. I find that I have rotated the baffle 180 degrees and it won't start into the boltway. I agree with Robinhood, it should move with finger pressure. May have to clean as well as lube.
I see a serious color issues with the baffle. It should be as bright and shiny as the bolt head.
Either corrosion, goo or unknown, but that would explain why it does not turn freely.
You need to take the bolt apart and clean it up, but you also need to figure out what is causing that crud.
The firing pin has to come out to take that off so you need to work from the back forward. ie. complete bolt disassembly.
Fin a U Tube, while its not really tricky, it has to be done right in the right order.
Not trying to be rude, but as you did not recognize the misalignment you may want to take the bolt to a gun smith to have worked on.
As the bolt looks ok ad does the head, it seems baffle specific and that is (pun intended) baffling.
there is a story there that needs to be told.
When done it should turn easily with little fingers.
RC20, I have a couple that are the same color. Don't know why, I keep my stuff clean and lubed.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
My three are all bright and shiny, odd.
Still an issue that its not turning freely the way it should.
I agree with the freely rotating baffle. I had trouble inserting bolt in the past, until I figured out it was actually the bolthead retaining pin had broken in half and was slipping in and out and getting hangup.
Midway fixed it. Take bolt apart and make sure there is no buildup causing soldering or such.
^^^It, and the barrel nut, is what makes the Savage a Savage. Meaning, an inexpensive, highly accurate shooting machine that can be easily taken apart and reconfigured to your liking without expensive tools and machining.
Actually, I kind of prefer my Savage Bolt to the ones in my Remingtons. Keep it clean and inspect regularly and it works great. Remington extractors?? I've replaced the "clip" with a real extractor on my .308 and will do the same on my .223 as soon as someone can come up with a work-around. Here's an idea. I'll sell the .223 and start a new build on a Savage action.
factory rifle bolt winner is....Howa. Or is it Tika?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
PT&G Bolts are made in a factory of sorts aren't they??One of those fixes a lot of the Remington Problems.
As for the Savage Bolt, yes, there are a lot of parts and pieces but some of them are actually beneficial to the shooter. Floating bolt head certainly makes sure you have max bolt lug contact. Removeable handle allows one to choose from several different types rather than having to cut/grind/thread the old so it can take an aftermarket knob.
Obviously I only have a limited number of samples to compare but I I don't see the factory bolt on a Savage (at least the one I have) to be that big an issue. 1500 rounds in 6 months and no issues yet.
Just my thoughts:
I never did master a 1903 bolt takedown. Simpler parts count maybe but harder to get the thing all coordinated.
Maybe not my strong point
The 1917 is probably the simplest ever. Of course it does require a tool, bread wrapper clip does fine though a number of other objects can be made to work.
I suspect Savage is not so complicated as its simplified into a number of easier machining steps. more parts but less cost.
I liked its setup, there is a logic to it that seems to resonate.
K31 Bolt is much the same as the Savage other than no tool required.
You seldom need to strip one down in the field, so tools not normally an issue.
Funny how this conversation went on without the OP. Maybe he is trolling. Otherwise, I'm learning a lot about other bolt assemblies.
I looked at AK49s bolt, it was the head that was off color not the baffle. Also coated, not the shiny bolt, that tactical thing.
All mine are sparkly clean front and rear.
All. Sorry I have been offline for a while. Thanks for the input. I got the bolt to insert, as I said used pliers to straighten out the locking lug. The lug has never moved like a wind vein or with light pressure but I had not had problems inserting/removing the bolt in the past as I take it out every time I shoot (gun won't fit in case with bolt in). Sounds like it's time to break it down and lube. Thanks for the help.
We always wonder. Good to have you check back in. As noted, a lot of good discussion about bolts ensues as well.
For sure you need to take it down, I suspect more than just lube. Good cleanup with emery cloth if its corroded (bolt body and the baffle)
Its possible there is more wrong like a malformed part. Definitely not normal. It does not spin like a top but it does move easily (should)
Let us know and pictures if possible. Some of us live for this kind of stuff. We don't wish it on anyone but interesting problems and issues are very intriguing to mechanics and the like.
Understood not so much for the victim.
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