Reply With QuoteIt might be best to remove it, clean the hole and polish a radius on the pin first. hot loads can also cause this issue. Have you torched your bolt face yet?
my buddy has a new 10 ba in 6.5cm, i notice the brass is being scratch severely due to the ejector spring, very stiff to push in by hand, and i notice it's different than my 10T, there is an angle on the end vs my 10T is just flat. and comments. i am thinking of cutting a coil off the spring.
chet
It might be best to remove it, clean the hole and polish a radius on the pin first. hot loads can also cause this issue. Have you torched your bolt face yet?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Don't butcher that spring! Usually they end up lethargic and weak. Sounds like it should fling brass.
hi Robinhood
i did take it apart, cleaned it up, end of ejector is well deburred and radius-ed, torch bolt face, never heard of this procedure, can you explain what this is about and the reason.
chet
hi rusty shakle
thats quite some pressure on the brass, you can actually feel the drag of the brass being scraped on the inside of the action before it clears the port. actually puts a kink i some brass. all sorts of scratches
chet
A hot load can open the primer pocket and let hat high pressure gasses cut into the bolt face. "Torch"
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
My 10fcp-k 308 also has a stiff ejector and drags on the brass head marking it. No big deal. I've reloaded the brass 26 times and haven't scrapped a piece. You just have to clean the bolt face more often from the brass shavings. Nothing to worry about.
Sounds like the ejector and extractor are working great, and that the actual problem is on the locking abutment inside the receiver. . .see the attached info. There are pictures on the second page that should direct you, to what I think the problem is.
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...enchrest/page2
Guys, he's talking about the shoulder being scratched, not the head.
What's happening is the ejector pushes the case out to a greater degree of angle from the bolt face and because the neck diameter is smaller than the width of the raceway it goes into the raceway allowing the shoulder to come into contact with the sharp edge of the raceway in the action. This is where the scratches on the shoulder are coming from.
Simply put, there is no fix for it - it's inherent in the Savage design - and most other 90-degree/2-lug bolt action designs. A slightly lighter ejector spring might lesson the scratching of the cases, but it will likely also lead to ejection issues. That amount of tension on the ejector is necessary to keep the shoulder of the case pinned to the wall of the action, and thus keep the edge of the rim of the case captured under the extractor. If you lesson the spring tension more often than not you'll start having the case drop loose in the action and not eject because it's slipping out from under the extractor before the neck clears into the ejection port.
This same geometry is why Savage has to use a longer extractor with the .223 sized cases. Due to the smaller diameter of the shoulder, these daces actually fits into the lug raceway and thus allows the ejector to push the case out to an even greater degree of angle, and a standard length ejector simply can't compensate for that additional degree of angle and retain the case head.
Originally Posted by MrFurious
you can actually feel the drag of the brass being scraped on the inside of the action before it clears the port. actually puts a kink i some brass. all sorts of scratches
I missed it.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Me too !
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