Reply With QuoteVery neat, but I will tell you cycling a spring in and out of compression is what wears it out whereas storage in compressed vs uncompressed does not affect the spring.
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A friend of mine showed me this for his Tikka bolt. The idea is that it "reduces the pressure on the spring" or such while in storage.
I don't know how effective that is, but I have a 3d printer so I decided to make one. Below is the v1 that needs minor adjustment with the v2 being printed as you read this.
When complete I'll upload the stl for anyone to print. Current bolt is a 10FCP.
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Very neat, but I will tell you cycling a spring in and out of compression is what wears it out whereas storage in compressed vs uncompressed does not affect the spring.
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I understand. However, there is a market for them and people could print their own instead of buying :)
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I'll second SDKMMC. Not sure why people feel it necessary to "reduce pressure" on a spring.
I could really play around with a 3D printer though.
Old wisdom that springs loose tension if compressed.
Not true but we didn't know it (we were never allowed to leave a dump-truck with a load of dirt overnight
That said we know better now. Still out there.
If you want to un-compress the spring trip the firing mechanism
I don't need a 3 D printer to do that.
Nice, There was a guy who posted a bolt sleeve file for a 3d printer a year or two back.
I have seen bad metallurgy cause springs to loose tension before when left loaded. In todays world on engineered products it is almost unheard of unless it is taken past yield.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Making a "bolt body and handle" cleaning (bore) guide would be killer though! Simple and sell good I bet.
Cheers
A solution for a non-existent problem.
Looking at your pictures, I'd say you've done nothing to reduce any pressure on the firing pin spring.
Your bolt is still cocked, the spring is still compressed.
Originally Posted by keeki
Guess it doesn't really matter. If ya cant afford $15, you won't be buying much anyways
Just a little more clockwise rotation and the pin and all fall. I think you are correct though. No need for anything but a 7/16ths" longitudinal slot for the cocking pin.Originally Posted by Hotolds442
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Correct, this is the v1, which at this point does not work (as mentioned). The v2 is being printed.
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Well, that would be personal preference. A quick Google says there is a market for it and I am giving my time to make it nearly free.
http://www.hss.net.au/product_info.p...oducts_id=1243
Is an example.
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Ah drat I forgot the locking lug bolt face has to move. No probs, v3 has got this!
Brb in 8 hrs.
About a year ago someone provided a link to a file for making a bolt protector with a 3D printer. An enterprising member here printed up some and sold them. I bought one, but I also investigated having them made. Unfortunately, there were a couple of problems with the design. First of all it had the words Savage engraved into it, a copyright infringement, but also the hardness of the plastic is a big factor in making it successful. The one I had was destroyed when I put a brand new model 12 bolt in it and tried to remove (you have to cock the bolt to remove) and the cocking pin tore into the plastic. I had to disassemble the bolt to get it out.
But the idea was sound, so I made one out of Oak and plywood, and it works great. Not only keeps my bolt safe when out of the action, but I use it to inspect the bolt head and firing pin in the uncocked condition. That ability came in handy a couple of weeks ago when a primer blanked and the small piece of the primer went up the firing pin hole and jammed the firing pin, keeping it from striking the primer on the next shot.
I inserted the bolt into the protector, uncocked it, and could immediately see that the pin was not protruding from the bolt head. I quickly disassembled it, shook out the primer piece and was back together and shooting in a matter of minutes. No further investigation needed.
I don't compete in shooting, but if i did, that little piece of equipment could have saved the day.
I'll post some pics if anyone's interested.
Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.
It looks to me its both an un-cock and a cocking device.
I can do that on the edge of the bench, I don't do it that often.
Maybe if I was one of those who take the stuff off the bolt head to do a head space check? But I am not..
I am lucky to find my hex wrench on any given day.
But its a really cool 3D solution! Maybe we could make an App for this? Motorize it, cock and un-cock while on vacation to keep it ready to go?
Here's an almost free solution for a tool to decock and recock the bolt that didn't take hours to draw up on the computer or take several more hours to print out multiple revisions on a 3D printer. In fact, any one with a reasonable amount of grey matter between their ears (old school design software) can make something like this in about 10 minutes with a scrap piece of hardwood or laminate and a few common woodworking tools.
The tool
Bolt cocked
Bolt decocked
Easy-peasy.
You are simply taking all the fun out of this for the younger generation.
Me? I used to have to move tools around far too much, each and everyone was as broad spread as possible.
Difference between a shop mechanic and a filed one is how many tool he has!
Now this is some 3D Printing!
http://www.3ders.org/articles/201704...reamliner.html
Well I have completed it, and in working order. I'll upload it soon for anyone who wants it.
Sounds like the wall thickness was too thin.
Not a cocking device, as when it is uncocked it cannot be removed from the protector. To reiterate it is a bolt storage device.
In some countries, like Australia you may not have the bolt in the rifle during transit. So your options are to put it in something where it can bash around or an alternative is a bolt protector like ones sold all over the world.
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Here is the link for the bolt protector, use or not use at will.
As per the instructions, print in ABS Noz 0.6-0.8, LH 0.15.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/sa...bolt-protector
I would prefer not to print for people, not because I am mean but because I live in Australia and the cost of sending it to you would outweigh the savings to you (as in $35 USD for something that costs in the area of $4USD to print)! If you want it printed locally near you, your best bet is to use something called "3D Hubs" which searches for local printers near your location. https://www.3dhubs.com/ If you have doubts, send me a message and I will be able to help.
I intend to make another version of this with an unscrewable end cap so you can see the bolt face.
I missed where you were from.
I got a Mug from a motorcycle group I was involved with over there. I think in the end it cost about $50! Only one like it in the US though.
One guy wanted some software, encryption I think and open to any buyer here, I checked, illegal to send that stuff. Ergh. Sorry. Then we found out NSA was monitoring everying. Phew.
I seem to be missing something, if its not a cocking device, but does un-cock, how do you get it out?
Or do you un-cock it and put it in and still get it back out?
I think you did a great job making this. Although some think it was a waste of time, I have a use for it as we discussed. Again, great job in taking the time in making these.Here is the link for the bolt protector, use or not use at will.
As per the instructions, print in ABS Noz 0.6-0.8, LH 0.15.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/sa...bolt-protector
I would prefer not to print for people, not because I am mean but because I live in Australia and the cost of sending it to you would outweigh the savings to you (as in $35 USD for something that costs in the area of $4USD to print)! If you want it printed locally near you, your best bet is to use something called "3D Hubs" which searches for local printers near your location. https://www.3dhubs.com/ If you have doubts, send me a message and I will be able to help.
I intend to make another version of this with an unscrewable end cap so you can see the bolt face.
If leaving in the gun and u don't want to dry fire, simply hold down the trigger when u close the bolt. It is so easy a cave man can do it.
I have to say though, I could make a lot of neat stuff with one of those printers.
You are not allowed to leave a bolt in a rifle whilst in storage in Australia. The bolt must be kept in a separate locked container. Dont get me wrong, releasing the firing pin isn't hard, but that is not what this device is solely for.
Here is the protector in Form Futura Premium ABS (extra strength). As you can see by the slice, it wont be breaking anytime soon.
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