Reply With QuoteIt would be a waste of time because that is not where the problem lies.
So, I've heard various things. The gunsmith I have an apprenticeship with says it's ok to lap the bolt, yet what I've read online in forums say not to lap the bolt due to the floating bolt head design. I have my 10 FCP-SR, mentioned in other threads, and although it isn't a major issue, the bolt isn't the smoothest thing in the world. Would lapping the lug grooves in the action slick it up at all or would that just be time wasted?
It would be a waste of time because that is not where the problem lies.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Care to explain?
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Read timing a savage action
Well, this isn't a comp rifle so I guess I'll leave it as is. I'm not gonna spend that much money on a little problem.
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The more you use it the smoother it will get.
I hope you're right. Not exactly the smoothest throw in the world.Originally Posted by Zero333
If the roughness that you are talking about is sliding the bolt back and forth you can get a DMT diamond medium sharpening hone. It is about 4.375 long and .900 wide. The top is hard to get to but the bottom rails are pretty simple to clean up. You will be surprised at the roughness of the lug rails on some Savage actions. I use a very light oil as a vehicle to remove the metal away from the cutting surface. Scrub when done. After that, a little lube does wonders. .........If you are talking about bolt lift, SSS T&T is a bargain. The ramp is too steep so the cocking ratio gets reworked from something like .250 to .200 in <90 degrees rotation. Rayhils lift kit (with some grease) combined with shortening or "shimming" the BAS for adequate but not overwhelming firing pin spring preload helps if you DYI.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I've got stones for gunsmithing purposes. I don't use DMT except for knives. They don't exactly make the top of the line items I'm used to using on guns.
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The only reason I suggested DMT was the fit for the work. If you have a Norton india stone or something better that fits by all means use it. It has been my experience that stones wear and are irregular unless you lap them flat regularly. My DMT red is surprisingly flat and has served me well. It does not wear when i am limited in motion but have a bit of proud metal that needs to be reduced. I am interested in what you have in the 1 inch wide less than 7/16ths thick stone. I will definitely pick one up.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Gesswein is all I use. 220, 320, 400 aluminum oxide for rough work and initial polishing for bluing and their ruby stones for final finishes. I keep extra new stones in stock specifically for this kind of work.
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That is nicer than the average Savage-Smith uses. The point being is I am as average as they come. I had to check out the sizes Gesswein offered. If you can keep the surfaces on the same plane, life is good. I think you will like the results if your wanting to smooth that sliding motion.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
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