I have a 22-250 savage model 12 I need to break in.
I remember reading somewhere that J-B can be used to polish the bore a little while breaking in the barrel. Obviously clean bore thoroughly before shooting a round.
Anyone try it?
Thanks,
-Dan
You'll get lots of opinions. Whether you use it or not is up to you. It is generally accepted that it's a really good idea to get all the residual thoroughly cleaned out before you fire it.
I used to get anal about break in. Now I just shoot them and clean when I feel like it or the accuracy drops off.
Have you shot it yet? Unless your accuracy is terrible, it's more fun to just shoot it in. Same results more trigger time.
Hasn't bee shot yet. Still have 2 feet of snow but my right finger keeps moving during my sleep!Originally Posted by 65Whelen
-Dan
Clean the bore, then put about 100 rounds through it, and shoot for real accuracy after that. My Axis had to have 100 rounds before it settled down. My .308 FCP-SR shot not better or less after 100 rounds. It shot well from the start. You may want to do some kind of barrel break-in cleaning intervals as you go. (Regular cleaning, no JB Paste) I usually do some kind of break-in, but I think it is more ritualistic than productive, but I can't stop doing it. I mostly use the break-in to familiarize myself with the rifle, sight the scope, check things over and etc.
A break-in may be good for the 22-250, as you don't want too many long strings overheating the barrel. Cleaning intervals will give you some barrel cool-down time. I have a 22-250 12FV on order as well. (My first rifle with that cartridge.) Due to the high FPS of the 22-250, many say go easy on shooting too many rounds at one time, or else you risk burning out the throat prematurely.
Come to the conclusion as above, I did all three aproahecs and I still can't shoot! (not that bad of course).
I could tell no difference in the barel.
If a barrel needs anyting (Savage) it would be lapped, but that is a hand process best done by someone who knows that they are doing.
Savage does none that I can tell, XC is better, Shilen the best so far. I have a Lothar Walther on the way and will see what it looks like.
More often than not it's the throat the reamer cuts that coppers up your barrel. General not something caused by the bore. As stated above, the throat should iron out after a couple hundred rounds.
I've been using the Gale McMillan method as of late. That is take it out and shoot it, don't get it too hot. Run a good, well fitted bronze bore brush with solvent 10-12 strokes, a couple of dry patches, and continue shooting. He contended that we do more damage cleaning and breaking in than shooting. And he was selling barrels at the time.
I always just follow this procedure found at the manufacturers web site.
After following this procedure and then shooting them for a while to develop a load, I have several bone stock factory rifles that are real hummers.
https://www.savagearms.com/expert-ad...rrel-break-in/
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
There was a guy who broke in his Sav 110s way back in early gun lists, I can't remember his name....Greg Langelius.. by 2011 he had given up on JB paste break in
The furthest Google is going back is 1999
https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...threadid=12582
I have given up on factory barrels. I will buy Shilen select match, Krieger, Benchmark, Lilja, PacNor stainless super match, or any other premium barrel.
Now with the anti Copper fouling in a temp stable powder like IMR-4451 or IMR-4166, factory barrels may be good enough.
He is not the first either. Over the years, Precision Shooting Magazine had several articles based on solid research that demonstrated exactly that.He contended that we do more damage cleaning and breaking in than shooting.
All barrels are made out of the two basic metals, Chromolloy or Stainless. There might be miner differences in the mix but they are all the same.
If you look at web sites, each mfg has their own take on how they should be broken in.
None of them agree.
The one I liked the best was "well we don't think they need anything but people keep asking so this is what we came up with!"
I doubt you can wear a barrel out with a decent (brass or glass or coated) rod and cleaning from the rear, I suspect you could only damage the front if you used a steel rod.
I think it makes people feel better so they do it.
^ Unless your a Marine ^. Current or former.
Then you don't have any choice! ;-))
Ok, never underestimate a Marine of course.
This is another take. I like the way the guy writes (primal rights.com)
This will get the barrel seasoned in a bit and allow you to get a cleaning on it. These first few rounds can be fired using factory ammo if you wish, but I like to use handloads. These early rounds can tell you some things about your processes, but it is really personal preference. If you want to use factory ammo, just buy a box of 20 and launch them at a target of your choosing at a cadence you prefer! You can use these first rounds to get a relative zero on your optic. Understand that as the barrel changes a bit, so will your zero. So don't be real concerned if your zero floats around during these early rounds.
I've always just cleaned and shot. Typically cleaning after every 20 rounds or so. Its always worked for me. I have a Tikka T3 Lite that shoots good handloads under 1/2 MOA pretty consistently and a new to me 116 in 300 WM that shoots handloads with 180 gr Ballistic Tips under an inch. I have a hard time believing a specific barrel break in procedure can produce better results than that from factory rifles with factory barrels. A factory barrel is either accurate or it isn't.
Kind of like oil. I have found one case it made any difference.
And that was a governor on a generator, the governor did not like the one oil (very good quality world wide brand) and it did like the other (also a good world wide brand)
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