Re barreling a Savage 110 30/06 to 25/06 The barrel nut that is on the 110 will not allow the ER Shaw barrel enough adjustment to set the Go gauge. Shank on the ER Shaw barrel is larger than the factory barrel. Do they make different barrel nuts?
Larger is relative. There are two sizes of tenon threads on a savage. Your action is small shank unless it is a rare model or modified.
Are we talking .010 or .062? If we are talking <.010 you could attempt to sand the peaks of the threads off. This only works if the pitch diameter is the correct size. Are the peaks of the threads sharp?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
don766
I read your post a little differently than Robinhood, can you offer more details or perhaps pic?
As per above, somewhat confusing.
Can you put the nut on the ER Shaw barrel?
Is it sticking before you get the nut all the way to the end of the threads?
It sounds like you are saying that the shank is larger than what you have, if tats so you have a large shank ER Shaw and it will not fit.
Large shanks are for the non belted magnums and I believe some magnums are starting to use it.
You can get a large shanks barrel for large shank receiver and turn it into something else to that option is out there.
Let us know so we can direct to a good answer.
Yes they make different barrel nuts. One for large shank and one for small shank. I think what olddav is asking about is the part about not having enough adjustment. I got that too but I would have been looking for longer or shorter not larger in your description. A couple of questions for discovery. Are you using a thicker than factory recoil lug? If you screw the nut as far as you can onto each barrel is the distance between the face of the barrel breach to the face of the nut more or less on the new barrel than it is on the old barrel. trying to determine why the barrel nut restricts the headspacing process.Do they make different barrel nuts?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Exactly ^^^^^^^
Originally Posted by olddav
yes I will try and upload some
The ER Shaw barrel is wider at the top of the threads than the factory Savage barrel, the barrel goes tight against the barrel nut before it stops on the Go gauge. Looks like it needs a shorter barrel nut.
Sorry, I did not word that very well. The nut seems to long due to the ER Shaw barrel being larger at the top of the threads, barrel is tight with no more room for adjustment and bolt closed on No/Go gauge.
As far as I can tell recoil lug is factory, gun was purchased used.
What is the threaded length & diameter of barrel at end of thread & inside dia. of barrel nut that is not threaded ?
Don, Take the nut off and screw the barrel in until you achieve headspace. Leave the lug on the barrel. Compare the length of the threads in the nut to what is hanging out of the action. There are many ways to skin a cat. You dimention descriptions need some tuning so you are going to have to spend some time and compare things if your going to be a Savage-Smith
Do you have a set of dial calipers by any chance.
Sometimes the barrel makers will not make the threads on the barrel long enough you can lay the new next to the old and determine if that is the problem also. Since the barrel screws into the action we know you have the right "shank" size. We know the nut screws on the barrel. The problem seems to be the nut will not screw back far enough. This can only be a few things. Threads on the barrel are not long enough or they are not deep enough at the muzzle end of the thread, essentially the same effect, the barrel nut will not screw back far enough.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Nut looks like it is about 1/16 to long
25/06 barrel
Threads 1.57
Shank 1.04
30/06 barrel
Threads 1.55
Shank 1.01
Barrel nut is 7/8
Are the threads cut too tall or not long enough down the barrel?
My 300wm er shaw barrel threads where so tall I almost couldn't get the recoil lug slide on.
Tough call. More thread on barrel needed, or a shorter nut.
Filing off the nut is iffy as you bunger those same threads you need to get on the barrel.
I will check to see if my NSS after market nut is shorter.
I can also grind down a smooth nut that is just end barrel protector and see how it goes.
If the nut does not screw on far enough something is wrong with the barrel period. If you are using the factory lug and nut that previously worked and now it does not fit the new barrel, the nut is not the problem. Savage barrel swaps are popular because it is easy not something where you bastardize everything to make it work. Lay the barrels side by side and compare the difference in the length of thread. If the new barrel is short call the manufacturer.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Agreed: Laying out the situation.
I have run across some people that are bound and determined to fix it themselves.
I fall in between, I may or may not based on if I think I can recover.
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