Headspace question

[Ky_flyfisher]

I recently rebarreled an older savage 110 in 6.5x55, headspace is set to where the bolt closes on the go gauge and I used a piece of .001" thick carbon paper under the go gauge to act as a no go gauge. Is this .001" tolerance too tight?
Factory loaded Lapua ammunition chambers fine.


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[olddav]

The only danger I see is different lots of ammo or different brands of ammo may not fit.

[dfrosch]

There's usually about .004" difference between Go and Nogo gages.

Since your ammo works fine, I wouldn't worry too much.

[hereinaz]

I put in my go gauge, and screw in the barrel till the bolt won't close, then back it out slowly and feel the bolt as it will drop without any pressure. Then, I know it is tight on the go gauge.

To do it, I take out the firing pin and guts so I don't feel the cocking mechanism when cycling the bolt.

What is interesting, is that on a tight go gauge, every once in a while I get a factory load that is tight closing. So, now I realize SAAMI specs are a range...

Doing it that way, I am as far away as possible from the no go... I choose to live life on the edge and not use a no go gauge if I don't have it.

[RustyShackle]

Only issue I could possibly foresee would be the brass getting pinched at the top of the neck/bullet/cannelure. If this happens you might see a dramatic spike in pressure. Look for carbon residue around mouth of case, if there is none, or very little watch your brass length closely.

Cheers,

[Robinhood]

Run it. If you have a problem later, fix it.

[Ky_flyfisher]

I plan on shooting all the factory loaded Lapua rounds and using the brass to shoot my reloads exclusively in this gun, so different lots or brands of ammo shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the advice guys


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[RC20]

If you have it set tight, keep it trimmed and good to go. Even tight tight it should not be a problem but always good to do so.

I suggest the Gérard Tri Trimmer, off the shoulder index, spot on accurate, chamfers and deburrs all in one. . Chuck it in a drill, mo9unt the drill in a vice, pull the trigger i and lock it on and you have a motorized trimmer that is great

Once fired Lapua is my preference. New they are erratic on neck tension. 10 our of 50 are much tighter than the other 40 (I separate them out) once fired they are even.

[Robinhood]

If you have it set tight, keep it trimmed and good to go. Even tight tight it should not be a problem but always good to do so.

Not trying to be rude but I have no idea what this means.

[RC20]

I don't take it as rude. Not said well. If the barrel is screwed in closer then the neck is going to stick into the chamber a bit more.

It maybe possible (I don't think so) but possible it could hit the end of the chamber.

Keeping the brass trimmed back to the short end would ensure its not going to happen. Precaution, maybe overkill.

Gerard Tri Trimmer is my tool of choice to do that.

[Robinhood]

OK. After I posted I reread it a couple of times and I came to that conclusion but thanks for clarifying.

[RC20]

S'all right

[WeldNFool]

A no go gauge must cost a fortune. Bought both of mine for about $40. For me I'd rather know for certain. Guess that's why I wasn't EOD in the Marines. There's always the old matchbook trick. Can be used to set points, fold it, set spark plugs. Maybe some could experiment with a matchbook as a headspace gauge, lol!!

[mbzandhanna]

Not sure where you are at but I have a set of gauges I used to check mine when I re-barreled my 110 from 30.06 to the Swede. If near by me you're more than welcome to come use them.

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[m12lrs]

When i order a new barrel i order a set go/no gauges along with my die set, brass and hornady modified case for overall length. Required equipment.

I always set my barrel down tight on the go gauge but i am begining to wonder about that. What i have read is that the no go is really set up at the maximum saami spec and the field gauge is the one that is too long.

So it seems to me you could make you chamber a little (very little) longer without having a problem. We all know factory brass shoulders are much shorter than SAAMI spec and as reloaders.we are measuring our shoulders on fired brass and set our dies up for a .001 shoulder bump anyway. So after fireforming chamber length really doesn't matter within reason.

[RC20]

I would say that's it in a nutshell

I can add a bit into this as most do not have that experience.

I am into US Mil surplus guns, mostly Model of 1917s (30-06 - WWI era )

That gun normally goes to the limit on what is technically called Field Reject Gauge.

Shooting those guns and the brass stretch first shot is a zero issue. Reloading them then to work in a a modern gun is.

I segregated the brass for those into their own special group. Once its fired formed it stays that way with the normal minimum shoulder bump back (a bit more, this stuff is sacrificial to a degree as any range brass that is clean and once fired is good fodder for them). Fire formed to those chambers and once it is as long as you don't try to make it fit a modern gun the brass does fine.


Where it would play out to bad would be if I shoved the shoulder all the ay back so I could shoot it in my 111. Then it would crack at the base quite soon.

This is an extreme example, but keep in mind they could have cared spit less about SAMMI, what they cared about was keeping those guns shooting in the mud, the blood, the muck and no beer.

The bottom line is you want all your common chambers set the same, segregated the brass or you will get case cracking well before the brass has used up its life.

I too have the set of gauges, if you want to make a field reject, then a no go gauge with freezer tape on the back will do it.

Go gauge with thin tape on the back makes it a no go.

And after working with it, I am just setting it so that the bolt begins to close on the Go gauge, and that is good enough.

The brass is shot in two chambers and they are both so close that the minimal bump back works fine.