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Thread: Good quality case neck turner?

  1. #1
    Grendelgene
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    Good quality case neck turner?


    I am going to try to convert 308 brass to 6.5 Creedmoor. I will need a case neck turner.

    Can anyone recommend a decent one?

    Thanks.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  2. #2
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    Match cutter angle to brass neck angle

    http://www.pmatool.com/pma-neck-turn...l-a-35-degree/

  3. #3
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Is reaming better than neck turning? Are donuts a problem?
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    Is reaming better than neck turning? Are donuts a problem?
    Necking down increases neck thickness. Necking from 30 cal to .264 i think turning iz warranted.

    We aren't talking about donuts yet. It is a good idea when you turn to cut into the shoulder just a bit to hopefully reduce the odds on the dreaded donut. That is why the cutter angle on the turner is so important.

    Donuts? Some ream some use an expandrel mandrel, push it to the.outside and turn it. Both work. Kind of like neck sizing and full length sizing. Some really strong.opinions there.

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    If forming brass from a larger caliber it's obvious one will have a neck too thick for safety. Some merely turn to their finished thickness and then shoot.

    I prefer to take advantage of the extra thickness and create cases with necks that only have about .002-.003" clearance with my chambers with a seated bullet. After forming and expanding the case neck I turn to 015" thickness. This gives me minimal clearance when I seat a bullet. I load down around the middle of the range so I still have enough pressure to blow the case and shoulder out to fit the chamber nicely.

    I then use a Wilson Neck Reamer on a Wilson/Sinclair Trimming setup. The case neck, after firing is now almost exactly the same dimension as the chamber with maybe .0005" clearance on all sides. The Wilson neck reamer is ground to provide .002 - 003" clearance when the neck is sized and a bullet seated again. On my cases this resulted in neck thicknesses around .014" but he neat part is that they are concentric with the ais of the case and the inside of the neck is nice and smooth. Some extra work but the results on the target have been rewarding.

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Good post Deadshot2. Not disagreeing with M12LRS but my friends have a similar process as yours and their stuff shoots very well.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Team Savage 243LPR's Avatar
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    The K&M works well.
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    "...shall not be infringed" What's the confusion?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    Good post Deadshot2. Not disagreeing with M12LRS but my friends have a similar process as yours and their stuff shoots very well.
    No argument here. What i said was both methods work and there would be strong opinions about which one to use.

    Personally i buy lapua creedmoor brass and avoid all the drama

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by m12lrs View Post
    No argument here. What i said was both methods work and there would be strong opinions about which one to use.

    Personally i buy lapua creedmoor brass and avoid all the drama
    Like every "journey" there are often different routes and they all get you where you want to go.

    A couple notes: To the original question "What neck turning tool" my personal preference is the Sinclair NT-4000. Has a nice size for my fat hands, a carbide cutter standard, and the Depth of Cut control is phenomenal. The mandrel is held in an eccentric holder and depth of cut changes as little as .0002" are as easy as "Click". I've used others that work well but this cutter just stands out over the others in my mind because of this simple feature.

    As for just buying Lapua Brass, first off I wanted some small primer 6.5 creedmoor brass before the Lapua brass became available. I just reformed Lapua .308 Palma and got what I wanted. Second, when Lapua finally delivered their brass and put a $120 price tag on it, suddenly "all the drama" turned into a $46 savings to me. I purchased my .308 Palma brass for $74 per box and the lowest I could find the Lapua brass for was $120. Using "Old Math" ( and a cheap Chinese made calculator) made the answer simple. I just used a 6.5 Creedmoor Body Die (Redding) for the first step, a Sinclair Expander mandrel die with the O/S mandrel to prep the neck for turning, and then trimed and turned. Not a ton of drama but with this method I ended up with 3 boxes of Lapua Creedmoor brass for the price of two "ready made" from Lapua with an extra $18 left over for lunch money.

    Time wise, I just do the process by performing each step on the full batch. First form all, then expand all, trim all, then turn. Takes a while but I just do it as a time filler. Being retired does have it's perks.

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    Basic Member eddiesindian's Avatar
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    Rcbs has worked well for me.
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