Reply With QuoteShooting a military caliber, 7.62 or 5.56?
It may not be a big deal, but you should probably look at your primers to be sure. If they're pierced or if the radius around the edge is flat, you might want to find a different load.
Hello savage shooters:
I don't reload, I shoot factory remanufactured (once fired) ammo. Yesterday at the range I had a round that was really hard to get it to close the bolt, but i managed to close the bolt. After firing that round, I had to use a rubber mallet to tap the bolt back. would this cause any harm to the extractor or the bolt? this is the 3rd or 4th time this has happened and so far I haven't had any problems but it's starting to worry me. thanks for your input. louis.
Shooting a military caliber, 7.62 or 5.56?
It may not be a big deal, but you should probably look at your primers to be sure. If they're pierced or if the radius around the edge is flat, you might want to find a different load.
VISA loves me since I joined this site.
First off, As long as you're using a cleaning rod to push the bolt back (fed from muzzle end) you shouldn't have any damage to the extractor... If you keep using the mallet, you will eventually have to replace the extractor.
there are a couple things you may have going on:
first, your chamber may have some crap in it that needs to be cleaned out....
Second, if the round was too long for your chamber, then could cause the sticking issue. (the tolerance for factory ammo isn't the highest QC....)
Shooting Ultramax 308 ammo. The primers look good.
Haven't tried using a cleaning rod because of the resistance of the bolt being so tight. Didn't even think about it. I'll keep that in mind for the next time it happens. Thanks.
Its just my opinion, but you are having problems, you just haven't broken anything yet. If you are having trouble closing the bolt then you are forcing something somewhere and that could lead to high preasures thus causing the bolt to stick. If I experienced the problem you are describing, I would stop shooting any of the remaining rounds from that manufacturer. Something not right!Originally Posted by SlowTrigger
Thanks olddav, the bolt is sticking *before* the round is fired. That is, if I chamber the round where the bolt is hard to close and then don't pull the trigger but instead try to pull the round back out, the bolt still sticks.
You may have gotten a bad batch of Brass, that hadn't been full length resized before they got reloaded (you said they were once fired correct?) That's the other thing I can think of right off the top of my head.
yes, correct. it only happens for 1 round or 2 out of 100. I'm mainly concerned about the extractor and bolt when I have to use the rubber mallet to get the bolt back.
Is it only the rounds that are hard to load get stuck in the chamber? The brass was likely shot in an auto or semi auto that has a sloppy chamber. Then, it probably wasn't resized enough to fit your chamber.
I'd suggest switching to different ammo. If you go with new ammo, selling your once fired brass could offset the cost difference.
VISA loves me since I joined this site.
I understand, but you should be concerned with the rounds sticking also... Your rifle isn't supposed to do that. When you pull the round out, do you see any marks on the bullet itself? It sounds like the round is either loaded too hot, or is loaded too long for your chamber...
Honestly I haven't paid attention to the bullet itself when pulling back out because most of the time I just fire the round that's already chambered. Based on what you are saying, I would suspect it's the latter issue, namely it being too long for my chamber.
Yes, only those rounds. 95% of the time it is fine and I have not problem with that ammo. The thing is this ammo is cheap but it shoots really well out of my rifle, so that's why I use it.
It could be either one, as they symptoms of both problems are very similar... But, I do lean more toward the later, because when you fire the round you can then extract it? without using the mallet? Or do you still have to use the mallet even after firing?
If you still have to use the mallet after firing the round, then I'd say it's the Brass full length resizing issue...
I think you are right SageRat. I would agree with you it's a brass issue, which is what I've been suspecting. that being semi settled, what do you think about the potential issues with the extractor? I don't think I cleaning rod would do it because it is so **** tight in there.
You'd be surprised what a cleaning rod will get out.... If it's the fired brass, then a cheap cleaning rod from Bimart of something (the metal ones) and thread a flat headed jag on it. Not one with a point on it for your cleaning patches. Then just feed it from the muzzle end until you feel it slide into the neck and down to the base. Then if necessary, use the mallet on the end of the rod to knock the bolt back.
I've had the same issue with stuck brass in my 22-250 and had to order a new extractor and detent ball. (amazon I think) or you can go straight to Savage and order it there. You just need to provide your serial number to them and they'll send you what you need for your rifle.
It's actually a good kit to have a few backups too, as the extractors on Savage can wear out after about 3000 cycles of the bolt....
I have to use the mallet even after firing. Either way it gets stuck. Fired or not.
Thanks a lot for all you input SageRat. BTW, how hard is it to replace a savage extractor?
I think we've got it down to a 95% chance it's the once fired brass.... This is where being a reloader will benefit you down the road.... You can buy brand new brass, and your QC goes up significantly... just something to keep in mind...
Your loads and accuracy can/will get better too. Other than that.... Just buy factory ammo that is virgin brass.
The Process itself is very simple..... The hardest part is being able to hold the detent ball in place, until you can slide the extractor into the slot and push it back far enough to hold the detent ball in place. Make sure to use a ziplock bag that is big enough that you can get both hands in it.
When you push the extractor out of the bolt face initially the detent ball and tiny spring will shoot into outer space if you don't have it inside of the ziplock. Same process for putting it back in... Keep it all inside of the ziplock until you have successfully replaced the extractor over the detent ball.
double post
Could also be brass that may have been fired more than once, has work hardened, and now isn't malleable enough to deform with the chamber when chambered. In other words... the brass may need to be annealed. Get a box of reputable factory ammo and see if the problem persists.
Are you using the mallet to open the bolt, or to move it rearwards? I have had them hard to open, overpressure causing too much bolt thrust, but once the lugs cleared the recess it came rearward just fine.
Thank you SageRat. Appreciate all your input.
Using the mallet to move the bolt to the rear. It's tricky, because by the time I realize it's going to be one of those rounds that sticks, i'm already 50% into battery. So it's really hard to close the bolt while loading the round, and really hard to open and move the bolt back to the rear.
I wouldn't be surprised if the culprit is brass that was fired in a machine gun and is oversized to the point that a normal sizing die can't reduce it enough to fit. I have had that issue with surplus brass. When I sized the cases with a small base die, the problem went away.
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