I use a Sinclair NT-1000 for small batches(~10) and my 7x12 lathe for larger ones.
Bill
I've got to get a neck turning tool, what's everyone using?
I use a Sinclair NT-1000 for small batches(~10) and my 7x12 lathe for larger ones.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
I have the Forster and while it works decent it doesn't allow me to cut into the shoulder area like I want to...
K&M
VISA loves me since I joined this site.
That nt-1000 is sold out everywhere
I looked at the k&m also
I have this K&M Neck turning tool - that I will say is OK - I use it and will continue to use it, but I do think about the 21st Century neck turning tool because it has the ability to dial in the depth of cut - with the K&M tool I loosen the screw - push the cutter in our out - tighten it down, and see if the trial and error approach set the depth of cut is where you want it to be. On both tools - it is trial and error to set the mandrel - but at least the 21st century tool allows you to dial in the "cutter depth" - for about the same price. Once set - the K&M holds the setting and works fine through hundreds of cases. I just don't like the method to set the cutter and mandrel depths. If you're a guy that likes a dial caliper on your seating dies - why wouldn't you want the same approach on cutter/mandrel depth?
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/293...94UaAl4i8P8HAQ
Here is the 21st Century tool:
http://www.xxicsi.com/neck-turning-tool.html
I also have this K&M shell holder to connect to my drill
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/807...-power-adapter
I got a different shell holder that connects to my drill, the Sinclair model below - I like the Sinclair model much better - it feels like it holds the case more solid and concentric. The K&M tool felt just a little wobbly/loose. It's hard to describe - and I am not saying the K&M didn't work - it did work. I just like the Sinclair case holder much more.
http://www.brownells.com/reloading/c...prod33962.aspx
IMO - you want to connect to a power source to turn the case - the handles to do it manually.... - save your money and don't buy the manual handle.
Brownells is in stock.
I ended up with a NT 1000 a couple of months ago at an auction. Looks and feels nice - but I haven't used it. Doesn't look like it's ever been used. It was one of those - at the end of the auction, most people had left, a few things left on the table - and while I had not intended to buy it - what do you do when nobody bids against ya.
I have the k&m also. It took about 15 cases to get everything set and get the feel for it, I have turned 285 cases with it now without any problems. I only use it for one rifle, if you are going to be turning multiple calibers there may be an easier way.
I have this one. It works very well.
http://www.pmatool.com/pma-neck-turn...l-a-35-degree/
If you're asking when using the lathe....
I "borrowed" Mike Bryant's and Jackie Schmidt's method. The neck of the brass is pressed on +.002"-.+003" over mandrel to drive them. The case is allowed to turn in the shellholder, the ram from a old Lee hand press in the tail stock. A case it pressed on, turned the pulled off. The advantages? No per-expanding, no lube, no mandrel heat up and the necks can be turned in one or more passes on the fly by the compound setting(s). I've also added a VS drive on the lead screw to control it's feed rate independent of the chuck speed. I'll engage the screw until I'm almost at the junction then finish by hand and eyeball. The bit tip is honed to slight radius to give a more rounded transition at the neck-shoulder junction instead of a sharp shoulder and allows for a better finish.
Bill
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Thanks. That looks more precise than what I have heard others doing, by putting brass in a collett, in the chuck. Seems it would be harder to keep centered the collett way. Glad you explained how you got the shell holder in there, had me wondering when I saw it. :)
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