Reply With QuoteI should add that I will be reloading for this rifle. I plan to use the factory ammo to make brass. 6.5x55
since there's no build forum anymore, that i can see anyway, I will post here...
I screwed a barrel on to one of my axis actions. I only had a go gauge. I tested many many times between the go gauge and the go guage with a piece of scotch tape on the base (no go gauge flamers can start replying now. I tested after I locked down the barrel nut as well. everything seemed fine. It would close fine on the bare go gauge, and it would have resistance with the tape. of course, if i pushed harder, it would crush the tape and close.
so yesterday i decided to do more testing. I have a few different brands of factory ammo that I decided to test chamber yesterday. Every brand worked ok except for CBC. I will say that hornady (and maybe another)closed with some resistance, but they all closed except CBC.
What should I do? get a no go I know, but before that I mean. Is my barrel on a tick too far? or perhaps my headspace is on the tight side which from what I read is a good thing.
thanks
I should add that I will be reloading for this rifle. I plan to use the factory ammo to make brass. 6.5x55
and If i had a FL die I would try that on the CBC for kicks, but i only have lee collet
I'd unscrew the barrel about 1/16 to 1/8th inch and retest. I use two pieces of tape to simulate a no go gauge. JMO
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thanks...any idea what my headspace might be now based on the 1 piece vs 2 pieces? i read that .001 is optimal. also think I read that scotch tape is typically .0015
The difference between go and no-go in that caliber is .004" according to google. the tape method will only get you close you need to be able to "feel" whats right. Problem is you can only really get there with experience using go, no-go and field gauges. Scotch tape is about 1.5 mill at rest but can easily be compressed to .5 millOriginally Posted by alltherage
You could easily be under 1 mill right now. BTW 1 mill = .001 ".
Consequences if i leave it??
Unless your max loading the worst is you may have to beat the bolt back with a rubber mallet. The primary extraction on the axis leaves a little to be desired. I have a 308 in exactly the same situation, I added an extended bolt handle and don't feed it ammo it doesn't like.
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k thanks. I will shoot it with the factory ammo it likes I guess, and then do my reloads and see if it feeds reliably. If not, I will do as you say and back it off a tick and remeasure. If anyone has a loaner no go I will gladly take it and ship back promptly.
Go to your local auto supply and get some Plasti-gage. Put a piece on the back of the go gauge and chamber it, then measure the plasti-gage with the chart. It will tell you exactly how much clearance you have.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
I followed your advice and got some plastigage. interesting stuff...took me quite a while to figure out how to use it. the profit margin has to be wonderful on this stuff haha. anyway, glad my fingers are small as this was a tough task to tape it to the end of the go gauge. I ran it multiple times and got what I think are 3 accurate reads. I am consistently between .0015 and .002....
1 reading was approaching .0015 but not quite, 1 reading was right at .00175, and the third was approaching .002 but not quite. I would definitely average them at .00175
now what?
i'm between .0015 and .00175 consistently.
What kinda plasti-gage did you get?? I've never seen any that would give a measurement to 5 decimal places.....
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
It's not a safety issue.
and, as I see it... it's not a problem til it's a problem. What's your concern?
.00175 is my own extrapolated number based on the measurement falling between .0015 and .002 visually on the plastigage scale which only measures to 4 decimal places.
Guess i dont have a concern anymore based on this. Will see how she shoots. Thanks for the tips
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