Reply With QuoteOff the top of my head I would build a dummy firing pin (shortened, no spring) and install it in the bolt. Maybe just take the spring out of the bolt and leave the firing pin in.
When changing barrels I remove the ejector and firing pin assembly from the bolt. I think that this gives me a better "feel" when setting the headspace on fired fl sized cases. But, sometimes the bolt assembly pin slips out of its hole and jams up the action. I've tried scotch tape to hold the pin in, but that's not generally satisfactory.
Does anyone know a trick to hold the bolt assembly pin in place, with the firing pin out, while setting headspace?
Thanks;
joe b.
Off the top of my head I would build a dummy firing pin (shortened, no spring) and install it in the bolt. Maybe just take the spring out of the bolt and leave the firing pin in.
Now that I think about, Why are you taking the firing pin out?
No need to take the firing pin out.
I understand what you mean by "better feel", but that's overkill.
If you put the safety in the middle position the firing pin can't fall(if the safety is adjusted correctly.Originally Posted by Zero333
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I've been there
Not much fun trying to get the bolt out with the cross pin locking up the action...LOL.
I got a Shilen barrel Wed. and put it on a M10. Tried headspacing with the firing pin in, and the force required to cycle the bolt was excessive. I don't know how or why anyone would headspace a gun with the firing pin in the bolt. There's no "feel"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I don't understand. The bolt cocks on opening. If you don't pull the trigger, the firing pin will not protrude from the boltface.
Am I missing something? How is the firing pin interfering with headspacing?
VISA loves me since I joined this site.
Close the bolt on an empty ctg.
Take out the firing pin assy.
Close the bolt on an empty ctg.
See?
I love how some of you guys are capable of creating major issues from things that were never a problem to begin with.
joeb33050
Have you come up with a solution to the problem (loose both head pin)?
I just thought that you could also remove the cocking pin, that would remove the cocking resistance between the bolt body and the action.
Just a thought.
No. I find that if the rifle or Striker is held 90 degrees rotated = left side up, that the pin doesn't move out so often.
It's a PITA when the pin slides out and locks the bolt from coming out.
joe b.
A Savage and most modern rifles cock on opening not on close. When checking headspace resistance is not a indicator. GO....No Go. There is no slight resistance or heavy resistance gauge.
If you have to do it without a firing pin put some heavy grease or something sticky on the cross pin.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
lol. Ya think!? Getting to be the rule rather than the exception sometimes.I love how some of you guys are capable of creating major issues from things that were never a problem to begin with.
+1
Headspace gauges ain't as cheap as they used to be, but I guess they're a lot more positive than using a resized case. Spend $30 - $35 once and don't worry about it. A piece of tape added to a go gauge makes a no go.
VISA loves me since I joined this site.
I think I'm getting it. I open and close the bolt with a case in the extractor while setting headspace. Mr Furious and wbm don't understand why I take the firing pin out.
Do you set headspace on a closed bolt?
Thanks;
joe b.
Why not remove cocking pin, instead of bolt head pin ? I normally remove the trigger & give the action a good cleaning when swapping barrels, there is spring resistance on opening, none on closing, without trigger.
Not sure if this is serious but the only way you can set the headspace is by closing the bolt. The resistance of closing the with the firing pin installed is completely different than not being able to close the bolt at all with a go or no go.
Step 0ne:
With completely assembled bolt;
Install Go Gauge. Close bolt.
Pass? Tighten nut.
Cycle. Go gauge must be extracted.
Fail? Adjust until pass
Step two:
Install No Go gauge. Close Bolt.
Bolt closes you are good to go.Happy time
If Bolt closes adjust till fail and repeat step one and then step two once more to be certain of correct adjustment.
There is a small tolerance to work with here..
I like dfrosch's (AKA Underdog) idea if you are worried about cocking/ hand-off resistance or damaging your firing pin.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Not to mention the go and no/go gauges I use have a hole in the rear (just like a case without a primer) for the firing pin to enter without hitting the gage.
I really don't see why there is any concern here.
Yep, this site is headed for "nutsville" :-((
I don't see any way the firing pin being in the bolt can cause a problem. Now, the pressure from the ejector on the case might interfere with the "feel" of headspacing, but the firing pin is a nonissue.
Pretty sure he is feeling the cocking pin rub on the bolt slot. Somehow, he believes this is crucial when headspacing a barrel.
VISA loves me since I joined this site.
I believe that the cross pin is sliding out of the hole due to no firing pin to retain it. The pin gets hung in the bolt raceway and you cant extract the bolt. You have to roll the action 180 to get it to slide back in the bolt so you can pull it out. The whole discussion has been that you dont have to remove the firing pin to set headspace.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
You don't have to remove anything to set headspace.
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