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Thread: Savage 111 30-06 Build

  1. #1
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    Savage 111 30-06 Build


    I have a savage 111 30-06. It started life as a trophy hunter xp. I have switched a bunch of parts on this rifle. I am very happy with gun the gun but looking to do some more upgrades. I have switched the stock out with a Boyd Featherweight Thumbhole stock with checkering. I chanel the bolt handle to a tactical handle for a savage 110BA. I I put all new bottom metals from savage. I placed a 20moa EGW heavy duty pic rail. I have a S vortex viper 4-16x44 scope and vortex precision matched rings. I added a target spring to the accutrigger and have it adjusted to 2.5lbs. Pachmyer recoil pad and a quake contour sling. I am looking for recommendations to pillar and glass bed the rifle. Also want opinions on Basix ot Timney trigger. Also do you think recoil lug and barrel upgrade would make a difference and what is best brand for the money. Any help you could provide is appreciated.

  2. #2
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    I can't figure out how to post pics of gun

  3. #3
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    Using the search function for Timney or Rifle Basix trigger will pop up a multitude of threads on these triggers. Same with pillar and stock bedding. Many threads should come up that will give you some great help.

  4. #4
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    Here is some good info. http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

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    Glass bedding will probably be the only thing that makes a measurable difference. The trigger change won't make it shoot any better. The Savage barrels are as good as any. The ammo is the only other ingredient worth changing, if accuracy is not up to your requirements. Just bed the recoil lug and under the front of the action for starters. Free float the tang in the rear. Don't tighten the rear trigger guard screw too tight. It is only there to keep the trigger guard from falling off.

  6. #6
    TurboSportTSi
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    I wouldn't both upgrading the trigger any further. You are at the point of diminishing returns there. Bedding it will be well worth the time and the link posted earlier is a darn good one to follow along to. At least bed the lug, but I would pillar bed as well on a laminate stock.

    Aside from bedding, a barrel will be the biggest improvement for the buck, but you will only realize the benefit if you either reload or spend the time & money to figure out what ammo your rifle likes. You may be surprised at the difference.

    My rifle also started life as a TH XP in .30-06 and with the right ammo would shoot about an MOA. Not bad for a factory gun but if you are looking for better, it is definitely possible.

  7. #7
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    I would either replace the trigger or tune the existing one. It is the first thing I do to a new gun. For me a heavy trigger distracts me while trying to hold the crosshairs on target. A tuned trigger set in the 2lb range allows me to focus on the target and sight alignment while squeezing the trigger.

    I agree with jim_k, a new trigger will not make the gun shoot any better, but in my case I does make me a better shooter.

  8. #8
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    If I am tracking right, you now have a Boyds GFeahtweriht stock. I think bedding is a waste on those.
    They are Laminated and as stable as composite stocks.

    I have checked two with grease to see how they were contacting in the stock and it was nice uniform all the way and they shoot well (better than I do).
    I am getting frequent 3/8 and 1/2 inch groups out of both of the ones I have.

    Trigger: Contact Jim at NSS and get the 1.5 lb spring. That's all you need to get the trigger down below your 2 lb desire.

    Its maybe not absolutely the best trigger out threre, but it is good, spring is $7, try it and save the money. I frankly like the trigger and other than the spring have made no changes.


    Post Note: I love the 30-06, my first Build was a used BTH-111 in that caliber that now has a Shilen Bull on it. I like the lightweight stock. I am regularly getting 5/8 down to 3/8 groups out of it (5 shot), sometimes 9.

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    Can you send me some pics of your gun. I am really interested in a heavier barrel. Where did you purchase it and how much did it cost? Did you install it yourself

  10. #10
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    http://northlandshooterssupply.com/m...ade-barrels-2/

    I have a Criterion on a 22-250 in a heavy sporter and it is a tack driver. I've got another one in 260 Rem Match Varmint contour on the way for my build (using same action as you). They run $300-$500 if you want muzzle break, bead blast finish, etc...

    I do install my own barrels as I have the tools available.

    Barrel vise
    Barrel nut wrench
    new barrel
    barrel nut & recoil lug
    head space gauges

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by firemedic142 View Post
    Can you send me some pics of your gun. I am really interested in a heavier barrel. Where did you purchase it and how much did it cost? Did you install it yourself
    PM sent


    I can do that if you have email in your setup.

    Yes I did the work myself. I like all of mine but the 30-06 is my favorite. I got the 1.5 lb Varmint spring from NSS for two of them, one has the original and its not the one that has the best trigger!

    Cost for the barrel was right around $320 total, a bit heavy shipping cost to AK. Stateside a lot less.

    Tools were maybe $120 or so. I have the wrenches so did not need to buy that, breaker bar (nice to have) as well as a torque wrench (most get by without it, I have it and will use it if I do)

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