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Thread: help with pillar bedding

  1. #1
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    help with pillar bedding


    what is the best pillars to use?

    would the pillars that they sell for rem 700 work if i notch them?

    is it better to buy the ones just for savage that stocky sells? the factory ones?

  2. #2
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    I bought a couple of pairs of Savage Pillars from Stocky's. They work great. Drill the holes as accurate as you can into the stock and then epoxy bed them into the stock for a perfect fit. Some do it at the same time as bedding the action.

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    An alternative is using lamp rod. You'll find it at most hardware stores. It is easily cut/filed to length, and is threaded on the OD which gives it a good mechanical bond to the bedding compound.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Praeger View Post
    An alternative is using lamp rod. You'll find it at most hardware stores. It is easily cut/filed to length, and is threaded on the OD which gives it a good mechanical bond to the bedding compound.
    +1

    Might as well bed it.at.the same time. Devcon plastic steel is what i use.

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    So either is a good option thanks guys.. that helps a lot.

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    Try earniethegunsmith.com

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    I like to use aluminum arrows for my bedding pillars. Epoxy in place then bed.

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    Use lamp rod myself, drill the holes then use a tap and thread the holes. Screw the lamp rod in with loctite on it until it is the desired height

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    Do any of you contour the end of the lamp rod contacting the receiver to a concave shape?

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    ^^^I can't speek for everyone, but I absolutely will not do that. The pillar should be flat on both ends. It's only purpose is to prevent the action screws from compressing the stock material and therefore changing its torque. If you try to match the contour of the bottom of the action, in all likelihood you will add stress to the action, pushing it in one direction or the other. If, on the other hand, it is cut flat on the top, the rounded bottom of the action will simply rest on top of the flat surface at the very bottom of the action. Furthermore, if you follow up your pillar installation with an epoxy bedding job, the epoxy will actually fill in the space around the sides of the pillar your question kind of suggests ought to be filled.

    If you look at factory pillars, they are all flat on top. Pillars are not bedding. Resist the temptation to over engineer them.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by foxx View Post
    ^^^I can't speek for everyone, but I absolutely will not do that. The pillar should be flat on both ends. It's only purpose is to prevent the action screws from compressing the stock material and therefore changing its torque. If you try to match the contour of the bottom of the action, in all likelihood you will add stress to the action, pushing it in one direction or the other. If, on the other hand, it is cut flat on the top, the rounded bottom of the action will simply rest on top of the flat surface at the very bottom of the action. Furthermore, if you follow up your pillar installation with an epoxy bedding job, the epoxy will actually fill in the space around the sides of the pillar your question kind of suggests ought to be filled.

    If you look at factory pillars, they are all flat on top. Pillars are not bedding. Resist the temptation to over engineer them.
    In my head, I was thinking almost exactly what you stated. If I did install pillars on a rifle in the future, I would most likely bed too. I had to ask, because I have seen aftermarket pillars that are concave. Leaving it flat definitely makes things easier. Thanks for a quick and thorough response.

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