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Its Not the Violence that sets Men apart...
Its the Distance They are Willing to travel!
I'd tell you to look at the Athlon Cronus 4.5-29x56 or wait until march when my razor comes off my comp rifle and is replaced with the Cronus
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I would look at the vortex razor line of scopes.
They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.
..,
Its Not the Violence that sets Men apart...
Its the Distance They are Willing to travel!
The new Razor AMG comes in black there Batman.... all kidding aside it's hard to beat the Razor Gen II or AMG for the money and surprisingly the Razor color looks good with just about anything.Originally Posted by XL105
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So for that price, I think you are a little under budget for the max power you want in a variable.
IMO, you need to be above the $2500 mark to get optics that aren't goofy at that max power range. Otherwise what I've seen is that you amplify a bad sight picture.
My two absolute favorites are:
-Weaver Tactical 3-15x mil/mil FFP Model# 800363. That specific scope is roughly a $700 scope and has remarkably good glass, and locking turrets. Also has a very large adjustment range, roughly 32 mils travel.
- Primary Arms 4-14x FFP Mil/Mil. This one has everything except the zero stop and power. The trick with this one is that it is the current world leader in the "Sleeper" class. It will cost you $230 roughly. We did a sideXside comparison to a the SWFA 3-15HD. It flat embarrased the SWFA in glass quality. Target acquisition to a mile is very easily better, without any hesitation. It isn't as... bright, as the SWFA, but I'll take being able to see my target over that any day. Also has ballanced windage & elevation amounts at around 34 mils. So far it has lasted a nasty(funny) tumble strapped to a 4-wheeler and several trips to AZ on the floorboards. Dials repeatably in my tests, and has over 1,000 rounds of Creed/308 on my oldest one.
Optics in a large way come down to personal preference. As an example, C.A. Many don't notice Chromatic Abberation, or know what it is. Same with being bright, Vs. Clear. This last one ALWAYS gets confused. if you have a dimmer scope, but can accurately see colors or pick-out targets better. The one that you can't do that with, but looks really "Bright" will always get chosen.
I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.
You could take a look at Burris II 5x25x50. It has FFP. I have used mine for over7 months now and I do like it. Been going for around $1,150 up to $1,250.
Yes it does look good!The new Razor AMG comes in black there Batman.... all kidding aside it's hard to beat the Razor Gen II or AMG for the money and surprisingly the Razor color looks good with just about anything.
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Sounds to me like you already have a pretty good handle on your scope needs.
I have a Nightforce NXS 8x32 with a NPR1 reticle on one of my guns, a 338 Cheytac.
I have a Leupold 8.5x25 with a varmit hunter reticle on another, a 30x378.
I personaly could care less which one I'm using, as neither has been the (cause) of any issues.
They both work well enough to get the job done and that's all I care about.
As for zero stop, if you know where your zero is, just a glance at the dial will tell you whether your there or not.
And if not, it shouldn't be any issue to get there.
But they don't have to be an expensive factory version either if you want one.
On a Leupold and probably others, just measure the space below, then remove the turret cap. Shave off a section of a 12 gauge hull, slip it on, then replace the cap.
Color wont really matter all that much. lol
Bruce Baer is a stocking dealer for Nightforce scopes. He will sell you a scope with the factory version which is close to $200, or for about $40 he will install his version.
Mine has his version as does a few hundred others he sold, AND, regardless of opinions it dosent affect the scope warranty.
Send him your caps with a return mailer and he will do them for you.
So at least as to the zero stop issue, even buying a used scope on Ebay isn't a problem.
For an ELR build you need to look at the total internal elevation of the scope. You need to be able to dial a lot of elevation. Scopes with less than around 100 MOA shouldn;t even be looked at. That is one thing you have to watch with scopes over around 24x as those 32x+ scopes have limited travel.
Also you don't need all that magnification. I have shot to 2500 yards with a 5.5-22x NF on 17x on MOA sized targets. Could see them just fine.
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Its Not the Violence that sets Men apart...
Its the Distance They are Willing to travel!
Yup. 1/4 MOA or .1 mil will work fine.
+10000
There is a reason that scopes like this are 1/4 MOA. Dialing 10 MOA is 80 clicks with a 1/8 click.
Also internally a 1/8 MOA scope will have smaller gears, be more susceptible to damage AND getting LOST dialing.
If your ballistic app says to hold 20.3 MOA then you will dial to 20.25 and hold .05 MOA. That's a better solution than a 1/8MOA dial.
this depends on what your doing with the scope....most serious F-class and bench shooters use 1/8MOA...the problem with 1/8MOA scopes for most shooters is that they have very little elevation..thin reticles and a small field of view because of the higher powders most have.
Yup if 1/8 is needed for the game but for an ELR optic, which is what is wanted by the OP, the negatives you listed far outweigh any positive.
How long have you been running this glass now Rob?
I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.
Around 2.5 years. I got my first in June of 2014.
Some target shooters prefer 1/8 minit. For long range casual shooting or hunting most would prefer 1/4 minit.
A minit is always a minit regardless of click value. And if you use the numbers on the dial when dialing it really makes little difference what the click value is. There are simply more clicks between numbers, but putting the dial on a number, or a full rev on the dial will still be the same amount of minits. There could be differences between yesterday and today as for the number of clicks needed anyway, especially with big changes in air temp.
Buy a 1/4 minit scope and go shoot would be my suggestion.
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Its Not the Violence that sets Men apart...
Its the Distance They are Willing to travel!
Thats the wind. A 1/4 MOA would not move you from one side of that plate to the other. You don't need 1/8 MOA for ELR.
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Its Not the Violence that sets Men apart...
Its the Distance They are Willing to travel!
there is...its called 100yds LOL!!
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Its Not the Violence that sets Men apart...
Its the Distance They are Willing to travel!
That sums it up nicely for lots of things in the (real) world of shooting long distances. lol
So you think 1.25" is going to get you center and you can adjust for that.... at 1000yds.... and 2.5" isn't going to get you close enough..... man I must have been doing it wrong all this time....
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