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Thread: Ways to make a t-post stand

  1. #1
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    Ways to make a t-post stand


    Hey guys,
    I know the classic drive the t post in the ground route. But, there's a couple places I shoot that are so rocky that driving a post is nearly impossible.
    Ideally, I'd like to make a really portable, easy setup/takedown setup. Kinda thought about maybe taking a couple cinder blocks and filling them with concrete but having a hole for the t post to go in. Put the blocks out, slide the t post on the hole, put on the targets and shoot.
    I've seen a couple of the metal made leg stands but they seem to take up quite a bit of room and they seem pretty expensive to me.
    Any input would be appreciated...
    Thanks guys!
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  2. #2
    Basic Member jpx2rk's Avatar
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    I found a heavy duty/metal FSBO sign frame at HD/Lowes similar to what realtors use, got some 1" pvc pipe and made 2 seperate legs for it, the base that sits on the ground is about 3' long, a T connector in the middle with an upright leg for the metal leg of the sign to slip down into. I've only had set up in the garage when I glued it together, but it's definately lighter than cinder blocks, take down is 30 seconds, easy to carry and store.

    Don't know how it would do on a windy day, but will see. Plan on using for 22 ARA practice at my range.

  3. #3
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    Filling containers or building blocks with concrete with a pvc sleeve for the frame to be inserted into while sitting on a level garage floor is one thing.
    Placing them on uneven terrain and having it all go together well might be another without some site leveling. figure on a pick and shovel for the initial set up.

  4. #4
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    Check out the bottom stand in the album. http://m.imgur.com/a/VZICX I have used this setup for years and it has held up well. If it's set up right you won't be able to knock it down. I have shot the legs a couple times and just bent the rebar back.

  5. #5
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input guys! Those give me some ideas to work with and figure something out.
    Thanks again!
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  6. #6
    LongRange
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    If you don't have a welder and skills heres a fairly cheap stand...I even did the pricing for you lol...



    You could shave about $10 bucks off this stand if you use floor flanges and used/scrap 4x4s for the feet instead of the Tee fittings and pipe.


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  7. #7
    LongRange
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    If you have a welder(I think you told me you don't) here's some stands made outta #6 rebar...

    My older stands



    My newer stands....



    550yd KYL rack...




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  8. #8
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    LR, you kinda hurt my feelings....saying I dont have skill...lol
    Thanks for the drawing and prices.....lol. I dont have a welder but I may need to get a small just for that kinda stuff. I noticed your new stands dont/wont swing. Do you have a particular reason for that? Just curious.
    Thanks again for the ideas, Im gonna check on some of this stuff and see what I can come up with.
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  9. #9
    LongRange
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    Ways to make a t-post stand

    Lol...yeah welding isn't that hard anymore with the wire feeds.

    They do swing they are hung with conveyer belt...the pic of the old targets were my trial and error or testing if you will...I tried chain,carabiners,fire hose,garden hose,3" wide ratchet strap and I'm sure a few other things to hang steel...the conveyor belt is the ticket...the older targets have probably had 30k+ impacts and the hangers are still GTG.


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  10. #10
    Basic Member scooterf79's Avatar
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    Oh ok, gotcha. It looked like it was flat metal in the pic, but the belt makes perfect sense. Evidently durability isnt at issue with them lol.
    Thanks!
    Scooter
    I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.

  11. #11
    WeldNFool
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    "yeah welding isn't that hard anymore with the wire feeds."

    Sorry, I'm a professional welder and that made me laugh. Welding's easy, lol. Welding targets is easy, welding a lifting lug to an I-beam that will be used to pick up a 15,000 pound machine or welding a pipe with 900 pounds of pressure from natural gas, welding on a 400ft cell tower so it don't fall over, that's the skilled part. LOL!! Pulling a trigger or loading a rod into a stinger don't make ya a welder.

    Ok, here's my "T Post", probably went a little overboard but I have steel and pipe laying all over the place so it's just a matter of picking something out of various stacks. 4" channel base, 3/4" gas pipe drops and 1/2" Caterpillar bolt slid thru 5/8" nuts. Welded, rattle can paint job. Currently has a piece of 1/4" A36(mild steel) and serves as a good 22LR target. Working on getting a full sheet of AR plate as I might be fabricating some for the local range.

    Second picture, if you want a dynamite home welder I've had this one for 9-10 years and have literally run miles and miles of wire thru it. Good for thin stuff, welded 3/16, 1/4" and even welded aluminum tube using a welder's trick. A little pricier than those ragged Northern tool and Harbor Freight things but this thing won't die. Been carried around in a toolbox on the truck to jobs before I got my real wire feeder, caught out in the rain and who knows what else. $600 years ago and have built tens of thousands of dollars in custom high end handrail and gates with it. A good buy in my book. Oh, and make sure to buy bare wire and get a tank to run 75/25 mix. Much easier than flux/innershield core for beginners but not very good if your trying to weld outside in the wind.


    Last edited by WeldNFool; 01-28-2017 at 12:52 AM. Reason: learning how to post pictures

  12. #12
    WeldNFool
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    Oh, I also made one out of pressure treated 2x4's. Don't have a picture but base was basically like the steel one above. Screwed uprights into either side, 18" tall, legs were 24" for wind stability. Took a piece of heavy cardboard and short screws to attach the cardboard. Tape, staple, target to cardboard and shoot away. Light weight and rock bottom cheap. Built mine in 10 minutes before I rolled out to the range for the youngsters to plink with the 22's.

  13. #13
    Basic Member big honkin jeep's Avatar
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    A couple of the small political or illegal business signs that get left on the right of way . The ones I'm referring to are usually a corrugated plastic with a wire base. Take 2 of em and run a piece of duct tape across the top so you can open em up like an easel. The wire legs are so thin they can easily be manipulated by hand any way you want and they're very light and portable.The best part is cost is Zero if you already have some duct tape :)



    I thought this one was pretty funny. is it insurance FOR low lifes, or insurance against them??? LOL
    A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.

  14. #14
    Basic Member moecarama's Avatar
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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^been doing this for years w/o the duct tape; set one for close and the other longrange.
    300WSM 26" 1:10 Med. Hvy. Varmit McRee Precision

  15. #15
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    So my father in-law owns a few country stores, and they do propane exchange there. After the winter, they get the new propane signs that advertise propane sold here, and they are made of metal. They make amazing lightweight steel hangers once you pop that pesky advertisement out of the way.

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  16. #16
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    scooter, how about a 5gal bucket filled with concrete and pvc for the post? it will be heavy and stable yet portable. jst a thought.

    Bruce
    Holy Crap!!

  17. #17
    schnyd112
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    If hanging steel, one shot will shred the PVC. Same idea with a t-post, or even angle iron, 10 lbs of concrete, and a 18" piece of 1/4"-1/2" rebar welded to the top and you can hang rings wherever you want. Could probably also use threaded bar stock for the horizontal and thread several targets. If you drill through the angle iron, you could probably add more integrity than just welding it on top. Could also add more horizontals, have the outside of the angle facing forward so if you do miss, it will deflect rather than funnel. Weld a big nut on top, then you can thread a bolt through the nut and tighten it down to hold paper targets with a cardboard or plywood backing, just drill a hole in 12"x12" plywood for target backs and you have 4 plates and one paper target all on the same stand.

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