Hey guys I have a 10 FCP-SR and just got a muzzle brake. My question is I am planning on a precision rifle build and upon reading found a few different pieces of information. One is to use a crush washer or shims. The other was to screw it on as tight as I could to have it timed correctly with blue thread lock let it dry for 24 hours then shoot. Has anyone heard of this second way of doing this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I only know of 3 ways...
Method 1 - Crush washers.
Method 2 - Have a gunsmith / machinist index the threads on the muzzle for that brake.
Method 3 - Buy a brake that comes with a locking bolt or a locking nut. Thread the brake on as far as possible, back it out to time it, tighten the locking nut or bolt.
My Silencerco brake, came with a pack of different thickness spacers.
Had to find the right combination, but worked OK.
Depends on what the manufacturer states to do. Just installed one on my AR10. No crush washers, just shims to line it up correctly. Loctight works but rockset is great. What kind is it?
Savage 10 FCP-SR 308, 300BO PCS
It is a muzzle brake and more beast.
4. Red Lock-tite
These worked well for me. https://precisionarmament.com/produc...washer-system/
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^this is what I used to time my brake.Originally Posted by jpdown
300WSM 26" 1:10 Med. Hvy. Varmit McRee Precision
I also used the Silencerco shims that came with my brake. Once I found the right combination for the timing, I tightened it down with blue loctite on the threads. There is no need in going crazy tight with a brake, especially if all it is being used for is a muzzle brake. Just snug it up. Some say about 20-30 ft/lbs. My brake was the quick detach type for my suppressor. I have since removed it because I have purchased a direct thread suppressor. When removing it, I had to put the barrel in my barrel vise to get it off. I had to really crank down on the vise to keep the barrel from twisting.......and that was with blue loctite. I hear devices installed with Rocksett can be a bear to remove. I think blue loctite for a brake on a bolt action rifle is plenty good. I doubt the barrel would ever become hot enough to break down blue loctite on a bolt rifle.
Red Loctite(271) is good stuff if you never plan on removing it. It takes 500*F to get it off after it sets.
Blue Loctite(242) is all that would be required here.
It is your rifle and you can do as you wish.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Understandable but I don't want to send the brake down range lol. I ask because I have heard that the washer and shims can cause unnecessary torque on the barrel. I know that it's not much but I do want to compete with this rifle and want to get as much accuracy as possible. I am thinking of trying the blue Loctite method. I was just looking for some opinions on this.
Its just me and probably doesn't matter but I don't like torquing on the end of the barrel. I started using red loctite with semi autos where it is needed. I never have any issue getting it off with a light touch on the brake from a propane torch.
Washers/shims do not create any more torque. Your arm bearing down on the wrench is what will create too much torque. I really don't see a need for anything other than blue loctite. Heck, you could probably get by with no loctite. Unless you are running a suppressor over the brake, it is a non issue anyway. I'm assuming you are going to use a conventional brake and not the type for quick detach suppressors?
I have read that many people will just hand tighten their brake with loctite on a precision rifle. I like to use blue loctite and snug it just a little bit. I assure you, it will not come loose on your 10FP SR if you do that. Mine (pictured on the rifle below) took a bit of effort to remove with just blue loctite. The barrel kept wanting to spin in the AR-15 style barrel vise. So, it was plenty secure. I had to put the vise/barrel in my large shop vise to hold it well enough to loosen the brake. Also, I clean the threads off the muzzle and brake before installing. I just wipe clean as much as I can with a towel. Others use solvents. I used to, but don't think it is necessary anymore. Just use some blue loctite and get to shooting. It won't come off.
That is correct it's a 3 port beastWashers/shims do not create any more torque. Your arm bearing down on the wrench is what will create too much torque. I really don't see a need for anything other than blue loctite. Heck, you could probably get by with no loctite. Unless you are running a suppressor over the brake, it is a non issue anyway. I'm assuming you are going to use a conventional brake and not the type for quick detach suppressors?
I have read that many people will just hand tighten their brake with loctite on a precision rifle. I like to use blue loctite and snug it just a little bit. I assure you, it will not come loose on your 10FP SR if you do that. Mine (pictured on the rifle below) took a bit of effort to remove with just blue loctite. The barrel kept wanting to spin in the AR-15 style barrel vise. So, it was plenty secure. I had to put the vise/barrel in my large shop vise to hold it well enough to loosen the brake. Also, I clean the threads off the muzzle and brake before installing. I just wipe clean as much as I can with a towel. Others use solvents. I used to, but don't think it is necessary anymore. Just use some blue loctite and get to shooting. It won't come off.
Personally I will send it to a smith before I use washers or shims.
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I prefer a brake that is threaded to the barrel and secured with a pinch bolt.
Easy on and off and can be tuned to reduce muzzle torque.
An example is, on my 300 WM I had my friend stand behind me, at the bench, and watch as I fired shots to see the pattern of recoil. By moving the brake , little by little, torque was pretty much reduced to zero.
The brake looks like it is not indexed to the horizontal, a TRG/tactical style, because it isn't.......its indexed to reduce muzzle torque.
Buy Harrells and don't worry about it.
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