Reply With QuoteThe first thing I'd do is throw two layers of tape on the back of a factory round and see if the bolt will close. If it will you have too long head space and its having to jump too far to the lands.
I just bought a new savage 10pt-sr from acadamy sports. It has a 18" threaded heavy barrel, accutrigger, and a stock that isn't a accustock, but not the basic tupperware either. The barrel channel is huge and the stock is relatively stiff at the tip. I can't get it to group for nothing ,like 6" or so. I have tried 2 different scopes, 2 different brand and weights of bullets. All the action screws are tight, as well as the base and rings. I got a magnifying glass to look at the crown for any defects and noticed that it has a 90 degree crown , no recess or taper at all. Is this normal for a "higher end " savage? All my other rifles have a slightly tapered crown. I am wondering if my barrel skipped the crowning process or if I need to look elsewhere for my problem. Thanks in advance for any insight.
The first thing I'd do is throw two layers of tape on the back of a factory round and see if the bolt will close. If it will you have too long head space and its having to jump too far to the lands.
Headspace has nothing to do with the jump to the lands. Headspace is the distance from the boltface to the shoulder of the case.
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If the Barrel is chambered correctly but head space is set too long it would cause the bullet to be farther away from the lands and possibley cause the accuracy issue. If I'm wrong please explain?Originally Posted by MI223
Any thoughts on the crown?
Unless there is a defect of some sort I've just never seen a crown cause that much of a problem, I'm heading to Academy this evening and If they have one in stock I'll look at the crown and let you know what I find. Here is a pic of mine but its off of a heavy barrel model 12.
Headspace problems will cause a litany of.problems but not from the bullet jump.
For a 6 in group problem I would say something is loose. Action screws, scope screws or even possibly a barrel nut. Use the paper.test.to be sure the barrel is free floated all the.way to the recoil lug.including.the barrel nut.
Get a.fat.wrench and check torque on all action and scope screws
It isn't the crown
http://www.longrangehunting.com/arti...le-crown-1.php
Headspace problems will cause a litany of.problems but not from the bullet jump.
For a 6 in group problem I would say something is loose. Action screws, scope screws or even possibly a barrel nut. Use the paper.test.to be sure the barrel is free floated all the.way to the recoil lug.including.the barrel nut.
Get a.fat.wrench and check torque on all action and scope screws
It isn't the crown
http://www.longrangehunting.com/arti...le-crown-1.php
Unless the world is gone South, it should have a barrel protector cap on it.
I don't know what those look like at the end, but it should unscrew.
Also shoot it unscrewed.
Either its got a major barrel issue, screw loose big time or a fit in the stock issue (and it should have clearance on the barrel, its a free floater)
Scope bases as well as scope rings need to be checked.
Pull it out of the stock and check the fit for interferences.
If everything is tight and it's still grouping 6". Call savage and send it in.
A Free float issue isn't going to cause a 6" patten on a heavy barrel at 100 yds
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When you say "the crown has no recess or taper" you mean it's as if it was cut and no other machining was done ?
If so, then this indeed in the problem. and somehow made the trip from factory to store. Call Savage, they will take care of you.
If possible, please post a pic of the rifle and crown.
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That is what it looks like after 25 rounds of winchester and remington copper jacketed bullets. I think it is peeling the copper off as the bullets are exiting? In some of the areas with less buildup ,you can see there is no "chamfer"
Also, Today,I removed the barreled action and everything looked fine. I bought a brand nikon and rings. Rechecked the torque on everything. Tried a polymer tipped winchester load . Still crap, maybe a 3.5" group......
3.5 is better, how's the trigger pull?
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If using muzzle brake, check for signs of bullet hitting exit hole on brake.
Obviously with the cap or a brake on it there is no need for a nice recess.
Someone that has one of these can weigh in if that is normal appearance.
Its not neat but its also normally covered up.
I saw some experiment that beat the daylight out of the muzzle and shot ok to pretty good. This looks ok but not public presentation intended.
I think where it can go bad is if the barrel itself is worn on the end and the bullet gets odd existing.
I don't see excessive copper, there will be some and savage has a pretty rough buttoning operation.
Just buying parts is not going to solve this. Worst rings will still shoot 1 inch if the setup can do that.
You may have a bad barrel, if the bases and all the scope screws, action screws and stock clearance is ok time to contact Savage.
Unless its been added, new rifle comes with a screw on thread protector.
Looking at the picture...
Looks like some SERIOUS pitting at the bottom, unless that's some dirt of some sort that looks like pitting.
The Groves look shallow or they're packed full of copper and powder. Kinda looks like lead fouling.
If you were to give this barrel a good cleaning and taking another pic I would be able to tell fact from speculation. But thus far it doesn't looks very good.
Also forgot to mention. It does not looks like they finished the crown with a chamfer. As far as I know, 90deg recessed crowns have a visible chamfer, unless all that fouling and gunky looking stuff is hiding the chamfer.
See if the scope base screws are bottomed out early. They will be tight but sometimes bottom out through the action against the barrel nut in the front hole before the screw head secures the base.
Just something else to check.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
If your talking about the picture I posted to show him what mine looks like, (my assumption since I can't see his pic). My barrel shoots a ragged hole @ 100 yds
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I believe the pic by JTM35A2, It appears to have some pitting as noted, and a rough crown, although its hard to tell in the pics, sometimes, what appears to be something bad in a pic in actuality is just some dust or lint... That being said the Long Range crown article seems to have debunked crown and accuracy issues.
If it is under warranty I would probably box it up and send it back.
I believe its his picture. Not sure why you can't see it.
Yours is not a threaded, I have no knowledge of what Savage does under the protective thread cap.
OP picture is plain flat cut and a tad raggedy on the edges, I have seen pictures of far worse that shoot fine.
Until someone gets us a picture of what another one looks like? Its mostly cosmetic and maybe they don't waste money on finish.
As for assessing pictures, Unfortunately light and flatness make for no 3D and color shifts can change appearance.
Its a very good picture, just limitations. until someone who has one can compare them.
I don't see much copper, barrel end looks fairly typical Savage roughness (normal and they still shoot fine)
I do have the Lyman Boroscope and have looked at 4 Savage barrels now and they all look alike. Cringe worthy for finish, definitely hard to clean and hold carbon, shooting good on the Varmint style and still working on the pencil.
Lead seems impossible. He is shooting copper bullets. I can only guess is light/flash camera color rendition.
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