I know that Savage recommends 30-35 in/lbs for the action screws and the back screw to just be hand tight (confirmed this last night with customer service).
I don't like having a range of torque values when torquing something and wanted to see if anybody has found the magic number when it comes to the action screws and tang screw. I know every rifle is different but wanted to see what everybody has found that works for them.
I'd really only like to know for a Model 11 (.308 specifically) but would like to hear others if caliber and gun model do not matter as much. The gun also came with the factory synthetic stock.
I am wanting to adjust the Accutrigger and want to get it back to as close as it was from the factory. I did read somewhere that you can mark the screws and then loosen them and keep applying torque until the marks line up and that should be the torque value that it left the factory with.
Right now I can cover a 3-shot group with a quarter @ 100 yards and I want to keep it that way.
Until you get down to driving tacks (though that quarter is coming darned close) the action screws adjusted to 35 in lbs. won't change much if anything
Issue with the back screw is too much and it can strip out of the stock. I had one that missed the wood and its been left out (I will rebuild the ledge)
Its a wood/plastic screw, not a machine screw. Not intended to be torqued nor will that get you anything. Snug is fine.
I don't get it on the acu trigger. Don't move it and you are fine. Its one screw to adjust.
So you're saying that there should be no difference between 30 and 35 in-lbs? What exactly do you mean about the trigger? Don't bother adjusting it?
right now it's at about 4lbs of pull. I'd like to get it to around 2 lbs.
I do that, mark the heads with a sharpie, and periodically check for movement. Depending upon how the action screw starts back into the action, the mark might be a good indicator of getting it back to original, presuming you get the action back into the stock exactly as it was before (not likely unless you have a perfect bedding). A torque wrench is, IMOP a much better and more repeatable technique. Torque wrench prices start at ten dollars (harbor freight) and go all the way to the moon if you look long enough. The FAT wrench is very popular, although I don't have one in my tool box.
Proper torque starts with screws just snug, seating the recoil lug with a sharp blow on the rifle butt, and tighten the front to about 40 inch pounds for a wood or laminate stock, torque to rear to 15 inch pounds and shoot a three shot group. Tighten the rear screw another 5 inch pounds and shoot again. Repeat until groups start to open back up and then reset to the best torque. Not sure how you can do that by marking the screw heads and not using a torque wrench, but marking the head after gives a good point of reference at a quick glance.
I've a couple of questions for you,
Is your action bedded? my opinion is to get another more solid stock but I don't know your intents BUT I have gotten a factory stock to shoot well with a little work.
The magic torque value is really going to depend on your rifle as there is a close range but nothing that is going to work for everyone.... it sure would be easy though if it were!
I would highly suggest you get a torque wrench, I have one of the FAT wrenches and honestly I use the hell out of that thing! scopes, bases, action screws, and all sorts of little things around the house.
The trigger most of the time I end up changing them out but for what it's worth and that's probably not much if I recall the ones I've played with were about 1 1/2-2 turns from bottomed out. I like my triggers right at 2# on my field rifles and 14-16oz on the bench Pdog rifles but again I'm not sure what your grand plan is.
What is the end result your looking to find? ok there's enough questions for the time :) Later,
Kirk
I have experience with 4 12 fv's. I torqued both action screws to 35 inch lbs. and all 4 are capable of .5" 5 shots groups with hand loads at that torque value.
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