Reply With Quotecork the bbl and mix some molasses with water(1:10 or 1:9 ratio molasses:water) and pour it in! Stand on end for a few days and then scrub it out. A little unconventional maybe but it should work!
I recently bought for not too much money a used pre-Accutrigger Savage 11 in .243, really to use the action for a project. 'Scoped the blued steel barrel and it is clear the rifle was ridden hard and put away wet by its prior owner(s). This is not the end of the world, as the action and bolt are fine. Even the trigger is OK, if a little heavy, although I have a Timney on the way. Still, it got me thinking. With some elbow grease, and the right technique, I might could still dabble in .243 at 100 yards. Anyone here have a favorite barrel rescue technique? I was thinking a Kroil soak and scrub, followed by an ammonia cleaner like Sweets and finishing by scrubbing with Bore Paste or another mild abrasive...Flitz, perhaps?
I can post before & after pix & targets to this thread as a "reward" for the best suggestion. I don't want to buy new tools though, so the project has to be doable with basic supplies on hand.
Ideas? Suggestions? Rank mockery? All are welcome.
TIA,
flangster
cork the bbl and mix some molasses with water(1:10 or 1:9 ratio molasses:water) and pour it in! Stand on end for a few days and then scrub it out. A little unconventional maybe but it should work!
Shoot, I may try that just to say I did...
A stainless steel chore boy pot scrubber works fantastic on the outside and will bring a rifle that's been sitting on the back porch for decades back to a nice patina when used in conjunction with s little machine oil. I certainly don't think a stainless brush and some machine oil would hurt anything if the bore is already sketchy.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Never did Molasses but I did diesel in a Bronco engine that got drowned to clean out the emulsified oil so.......
I would also consider chucking up a brass brush on a drill and turning it through the barrel. If the rust is not deep that might work it out.
Done that on some Mil surplus with pretty good results.
We are pretty much in nothing to loose territory here, start mild so you have someplace to progress to.
Naval jelly come sot mind!
Put a cork in the muzzle and pour vinegar in the barrel. Let it soak a few hours. I cleaned a rusted muzzleloader barrel this way. Did not need to scrub very hard to remove the rust. Also works on c-clamps that were left outside for 3 months and the threads were frozen up.
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I would say, an oiled patch down the bore followed by 8 or 10 rounds should take care of any rust.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
I would be cautious using an acid. I know that it will very lightly etch Damascus steel, and in fact actually enhances it visually if you give it a vinegar bath. FWIWOriginally Posted by whit
^^^^Yea, watch the vinegar. It can cause pitting. It can do a number on a set of Taylormade irons if left too long. Don't ask me how I know.
I'd start by plugging the barrel and giving it a good CLP soak. then run some patches through it and scope it to see where you are after that.
[QUOTE=fgw_in_fla;256183]We told you so...[/QUOTE]
Picked up an XP 100 at a gun show. Just happened to have a new box of ammo with me. When I inspected it (just a quick look) I noticed rust in the barrel in a few spots. Stopped on the trip home and fired a "few rounds". No more rust.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
I just hit it with a bronze bore brush and Kroil. Don't be surprised if it doesn't shoot well when it's really clean--I've found that pitted bores shoot better when you stick to just a cursory cleaning.
Plug the barrel and fill the barrel up with PB Blaster. Did an old Mauser and it cleaned the bore up nice. I was gonna rebarrel it, but not now. It actually shoots pretty descent with factory ammo. Good luck.
Old Savage 340/222 Remington, Dads 1st rifle.<br />Old Savage 110/30-06, New to me.<br />New Edge 7mm-08<br />Take your kids hunting and you won't be hunting for your kids!
+1 for post # 7
First mistake you made was "scoping it"!! You'de be better off shooting the rust out of it.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
Heh. You are probably right. I got the action off no problem, but the barrel nut is frozen on there well and good. I have tried Kroil. I tried heating. I tried a two and a half foot pipe as a cheater. Man that thing is jammed on there. I think I may have gauled the threads. I should start a new thread on tomato stakes. I am considering trying to just cut the durn thing off with a dremmel and chase the threads with a cutting tool from Brownells. Problem is the tool costs more than a new take off barrel. Any thoughts?
Cut the nut off with the Dremel and clean up the threads with a three corner file. :-)
Got a nut wrench?? Slide the nut wrench up the barrel. Chuck the barrel in a padded vice. A couple of rags will get the job done but if it's REAL TIGHT, you might need more padding. Hold the action with padded jaw pliers or jam a block of wood in the chamber opening for extra leverage. Put the wrench on the nut. SMACK the nut wrench with a steel hammer. You don't need a sledge hammer (BFH), just a big enough hammer that you can control. Something the size of a Ford tool. Might take a smack or two but it's the SHOCK of steel on steel that will brake the nut loose. If it won't brake loose, you might end up cutting it off. At least give the SMACK a try before you go after it with a cutter. And the barrel may turn in the vice so don't give up.
I've done maybe 10 or 12 and never had a problem getting the nut loose. Taken a few extra licks but they came loose.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
Heh. Tried this too. First with a rubber mallet, then with a small sledge. Man, this barrel nut has been an education all in itself...
I should add that I have been using a barrel vise and that I put enough torque on my first Wheeler barrel nut wrench to strip the paulings off the wrench. At this point I have replaced the barrel with an aftermarket take-off and further work on this barrel is for educational purposes only.
You can "torque it" all you want. All you'll end up doing is rounding off the slots. It's the "SHOCK" of steel on steel that will eventually brake it loose. Don't give up yet. A good size ball peen hammer will work just fine. SMACK IT!! If the barrel moves in the vice, SMACK it again!! The more you SMACK it, the sooner the nut will get the message to BRAKE LOOSE!! A little heat might also help. Soak it, heat it then smack it!!
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
We can get rid of the rust with Kroil. Bronze or nylon brush first, get it good and wet and leave it over night. Pitting inside is still going to be there one way or another, though.
When trying to remove a Savage barrel, always, always, always make sure you removed the front scope base and screws. (and that there is no filler screw in the hole)
Yep that's a lesson learned the hard way. LOL
And yes not only will it be very difficult to remove, it will completely booger the threads in both the action, and the barrel if forced and one of these screws is bottomed out.
Last edited by big honkin jeep; 12-20-2016 at 01:02 PM.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Thanks. Great tip!
What ever you do don't use naval jelly, My son called me up and asked what will remove rust, I told him naval jelly, He didn't say he was working on a rifle, It removed it all right, He had to have the barrel re-blued it took all the finish off real quick, Got rid of the rust!!!!
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